Here is a link to that helpful info with labeled pictures, posted by CCKen. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/gre...4/#post2852884

 

Okay.


Next time you see the RPM droop (before engine stall) at idle take a look at your voltmeter on the instrument cluster. See if it drops to below 10 volts (the Check Gauges light will come on at 9 volts). The PCM is sensitive to low voltage input.

 

The voltage didn't dip at all, constant 13-14 as AC clicks on and off.

 

Is this when the engine died with AC on?

 

No just when testing it at temperature. I was cleaning the grounds just now and two broke off at the O-ring part, they were already twisted and breaking apart. Those 2 at the G101 ground. The wires are split open a little too, I wonder if that had anything to do with it, can't be helping. Hoping my autozone has a few replacements.

 

Ahah. You may be on to something!!!

 

So drove her around a little bit on Sunday. Seems to be idling a little smoother but could just be in my head. I also added coolant since our bottle was actually almost empty (well below fill line). No warning light or anything though, would it normally come on when the bottle is out or if the radiator is getting low itself?

Anyways I have some long distance driving coming up again this week so I'll keep you guys posted if I have a repeat stall out.

 

Okay just pushed her out of an intersection on delancy....not fun. So cleaning the grounds didn't do it. When it stalled the voltage did drop below 10 though. All other electronics are working. The hood is too hot to touch, I'm starting to think it's heat related.

EDIT: Other odd thing I noticed, might be nothing. I recently topped up the coolant reservoir bottle. After the stall when i got the hood opened the level was and inch or 2 above the full line which isn't where it was when I filled it. After getting her running again it was back to the full line. Could it be like a bad coolant pump or something that is cutting out when it gets hot?

Things I know:
Only happens after long drive
Voltage drops at or just after failure
Engine doesn't get over 210F so not overheating
Starts up again after it sits for 10 minutes or so.

 

SOLUTION: Replace crank position sensor.

Started to drive out to Long Island for the weekend on Friday. Shut down on me 3 times in an hour. Got towed home. Next morning replaced the CPS and reset the computer by touching the positive battery cable to metal for 30 seconds then turning key to on position, turning on and off headlights. Drove it for about 5 hours this weekend, no problems.

 

Cool. Thanks for the update!