Should I change my automatic Transmission fluid.

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Feb 28, 2021 | 08:43 PM
  #16  
Quote: I've been meaning to make a hose pickup so I can do the forward pump at same time as picking up from a bucket of thf1000 tractor fluid.
The trans pumps the fluid out to the cooler and the return drains into the pan. There's no suction there. So if you redirect the flow to/from the cooler, you need to pump the return fluid back in.
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Feb 28, 2021 | 09:59 PM
  #17  
This is my last question before I change the fluid. So dont worry cruser54.
When The engine is cold, The fluid level is very high (higher than the max value or near the curvy part). When I turn on the engine and shift through the gears, the fluid level will go near the bottom. Should I change it when the fluid is cold and much higher, or is that a false reading?

Sorry for asking so many questions, this is my first car, and I am just learning how to maintain it.
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Feb 28, 2021 | 10:06 PM
  #18  
Warm it up to the best of your abilities and then change it.
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Feb 28, 2021 | 10:30 PM
  #19  
When cooled it's high on the dipstick

Check level when trans is warmed up and in NEUTRAL Don't overfill. Just take your time getting to correct level, it's easier to add than to have to drain excess again.
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Mar 1, 2021 | 12:00 PM
  #20  
Quote: When cooled it's high on the dipstick

Check level when trans is warmed up and in NEUTRAL Don't overfill. Just take your time getting to correct level, it's easier to add than to have to drain excess again.
So If i change it when it is cold and the engine hasn't been run for awhile, I will get more fluid out. Right?

After I change the (cold) fluid, then I will add more fluid, and warm the transmission then check it, then add however much I need.
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Mar 1, 2021 | 12:55 PM
  #21  
It its high at cold because all of the fluid in the system is in the pan, aside from whats in the torque converter and lines to the cooler. When its in drive and the pumps are in action, the fluid is moving everywhere, so there is less in the pan and on the dipstick.
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Mar 9, 2021 | 10:14 PM
  #22  
I changed the fluid, but when I was putting the bolt back in, it just kept turning, I also tried to take it out, but it wouldn't come out and just kept turning. It's not leaking, and I put some RTV around it. (not between the screw and the metal because I couldn't get it off). Is this ok, or am I going to have to get a new pan?
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Mar 9, 2021 | 10:41 PM
  #23  
Quote: I changed the fluid, but when I was putting the bolt back in, it just kept turning, I also tried to take it out, but it wouldn't come out and just kept turning...
And that is exactly why I decided to do the forward flush. On my last normal 'drain' I could feel there was going to be issues removing that bolt the next few times if I had to.

Not sure if it's suitable for retapping, others might have experience with that.
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Mar 10, 2021 | 05:49 AM
  #24  
Guess what? The bolt is softer than the pan by design!! So the bolt strips and not the pan. Grab a new bolt with washer for when you drain it again.
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Mar 10, 2021 | 05:55 AM
  #25  
Well, I wasn't taking the guess on that, doing mine!!
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Mar 10, 2021 | 05:56 AM
  #26  
Be sure to use Vegemite on the threads......
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Mar 10, 2021 | 06:22 AM
  #27  
Engine runs on it
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Mar 10, 2021 | 11:32 AM
  #28  
Quote: Guess what? The bolt is softer than the pan by design!! So the bolt strips and not the pan. Grab a new bolt with washer for when you drain it again.
Phew!
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Mar 10, 2021 | 11:33 AM
  #29  
Quote: Be sure to use Vegemite on the threads......
The toast spread?
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Mar 10, 2021 | 03:01 PM
  #30  
Quote: The toast spread?
I'm going out on a limb here, only because you previously said this is your first car and you are learning. Do not put Vegemite on the threads! Crusier is making a joke (I'm safely assuming) based on the fact that Roler is from Australia. The same as Roller is making a joke saying that his Jeep runs on Vegemite. Now that I'm saying this, I feel obligated to also say, do not put Vegemite in your fuel tank. Actually, don't use Vegemite anywhere on your Jeep.


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