I noticed when shifting from Park into Reverse it will make a deep clunk noise. The same with going from Reverse to Drive. And you can definitely feel it go into gear.

Is this normal or something I should worry about?

While driving, all gears seem to shift smoothly so thats good.

Thought?! Thanks.

 

Sounds like U-joints maybe.

 

Sounds like u joints to me as well.

Before putting it in park next time, pull your e brake up then put it into park. This will keep your pressure off your tranny.

I will do this when I am parking on an incline.

Once in awhile I have the same clunk. I don't want to scare you but it could also be excess slop in the rear end, highly unlikely though.

 

I am voting on u-joints on this one.

 

Is this a pricey fix? We'd have to take it to a mechanic because we have no way of doing that repair ourselves. How long can I go with this potential problem before it's un-drivable (we are really tight on money ATM)

 

you should check them, its easy and you can do it your self.

park on flat ground and pull your e brake, while Jeep is off put tranny into neutral. slid under Jeep and grab the drive shaft by u joints, do one at a time.

your looking for any play or slop in the u joint. up-down, left-right, and shake it all about. (haha had too)

if there is any play keep an eye on it till you save up some dough, call some shops I cant see it being that expensive.

 

My '92 Laredo does exactly the same thing.

I figure it is slack in the rear differential.

If U-joints go bad, they make a high-frequency buzz/rumble above 30 MPH. It gets worse as speed increases.

I just step on the footbrake hard before shifting gears.

Some people claim you should also check the trasfer case fluid level and condition.

Otherwise, like yours, it drives and shifts out fine.

I would just keep an eye on it and fix it if it gets markedly worse.

 

Ok, should I get the following parts as well if I get a new u-joint?

- bearing cup seals
- retainers
- bearing cups

And this is the rear u-joint that I'm replacing right? And would it benefit to get a new u-joint for the front one too just for peace of mind? I don't want to die on the side of the freeway or anything you know?

And do any of you have a step by step (with pics would be great) and how to replace these parts? I'm having a hard time locating anything on the web that makes sense...I don't know a lot of mechanical terms so I get confused with what I'm reading. Name the part then say what it looks like and I will be set.

Thanks so much!

 

Kristel, new u-joints come complete in the package.

Get up under the Jeep. Where the drivshaft goes into the differential you will see a + shaped U-joint.

There will be 4 nuts holding on 2 U-clamps.

Remove the 4 nuts. Push out the U-clamps. Push the driveshaft towards the transmission and it will go forward far enough to lower it. Slip out the old joiint and replace with the new.

Installation is the reverse of removal. If the U-joint has a grease fitting on it, grease it after installation.

It is usually easier if you put the Jeep in neutral, set the parking brake firmly, and block at least two of the wheels front and back to keep the Jeep from rolling.

Most people don't have to jack up the vehicle to do this changeout, but you can if you wish.

The front U-joint does not get near as much usage/wear as the rear.

You need to buy a Haynes or Chilton Jeep Cherokee repair manual for do-it-yourselfers available at most any auto parts store. Worth its weight in gold. It will pay for itself first time you use it.

 

If it ends up being bad U-joints, pretty inexpensive if you do the R and R yourself.

If it ends up being a problem with your rear diff., that can get expensive in a hurry.

 

It is very easy to replace. The u-joint can cost as little as $10-15. The drive shaft is technically balanced. So when you take off the straps where the 4 screws are make sure you put it back together the same way. HINT: use some white paint to mark the drive shaft so you can put it back together correctly the first time.

Once you get the drive shaft off and start to take the u-joint out, make sure you have some old sockets. Use one that is similar in width for the one side of the u-joint. Directly to the opposite side, place a smaller width socket. Use a hammer to strike the socket which will push the cap out of the drive shaft yoke. Repeat same process on the opposite side. If you have a large vice do the same with putting the u-joint in the vice with the two different sockets.

When you get the new u-joint in the drive shaft, make sure you put the clips in securely. I used needle nose pliers to get the old ones out.

Inside the caps to the u-joint are needles. They are arranged in a specific way so don't tamper with them if you take a cap off the u-joint.

Make sure you have the bolts and straps tight when you install the drive shaft. I just did mine last week. Make sure you get the haynes manual from the auto store. They are around $20 if I remember correctly. It is well worth it. I am sure someone has posted a video on google on how to do this process. Good luck. Let me know how it goes and if you have other questions.

 

I still don't think it is her U-joints.

 

well. if your on a hill and you go from park to drive or reverse it will clunk just because of the weight on the drivetrain. and if it is ujoints, mite I recommend taking the whole drive shaft out rather than just the rear unless they're not too too bad. and don't let the needle bearings fall out!