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Sealant and herculiner

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Old May 23, 2010 | 10:18 PM
  #1  
Cherokee's Avatar
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From: Mechanicsburg, PA
Year: 1996
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Engine: 4.0 L H.O. I6
Default Sealant and herculiner

Alright fellow enthusiasts, I've got a few questions.

I recently herculined the interior of the jeep, i think it turned out great!









As you can see, I had to do a bit of floor pan replacement.

Considering that one side of the replacement (passengers) was right over the exhaust, I painted the bottoms of the replacement metal in high temperature paint and bought high temperature sealant. Because of the chemical makeup of the high temp sealant, it is non paintable. Therefore there is no sealant around my new floor pan sections.

I thought that I would seal it up after herc'ing it.


QUESTIONS:

1- Should I seal it up still with this sealant?
a: on the inside, on top of the herculiner?
b: on the underside, on the seams of the new metal.
c: is it too late for this and am I screwed?

2- Considering I have 1.5 gallons left of Herculiner, should I bedline my underside?
a: should I have qualms regarding this undertaking?
b: would I be really likely to have water get trapped inbetween metal and herculiner and cause quick rust?
c: would this require dropping tranny or anything to do? lots of small issues associated with this project?

3- Do you think I really need 500 degree resistant sealant? (I couldn't find temp ratings on most other sealants)




whoah, that was more like 15 questions.


I'd love some advice!!!

Thanks guys!

Last edited by Cherokee; May 23, 2010 at 10:20 PM.
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Old May 24, 2010 | 02:09 AM
  #2  
sk8ertht540s's Avatar
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Year: 2001
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I wouldnt worry about any type of sealant.. that herculiner is going to seal it up all by itself. that stuff is crazy. It sealed up a few spots on my floor boards
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Old May 24, 2010 | 02:29 AM
  #3  
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From: Hollidaysburg, PA
Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0 lt. 242 cu.in.
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You're gonna want some higher temp. sealant for the floor above your exhaust.
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Old May 24, 2010 | 05:58 PM
  #4  
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Originally Posted by sk8ertht540s
I wouldnt worry about any type of sealant.. that herculiner is going to seal it up all by itself. that stuff is crazy. It sealed up a few spots on my floor boards
Originally Posted by offroadnut36
You're gonna want some higher temp. sealant for the floor above your exhaust.
hmmm, differing opinions.

you think i should seal up the floors inside the jeep on top of the herculiner offroadnut?
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Old May 24, 2010 | 06:06 PM
  #5  
RoyalXJ's Avatar
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use gutter sealant. you can find it at home depot or lowes
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Old May 27, 2010 | 10:32 PM
  #6  
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bump...

can anyone answer any of my questions in the first post?
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Old Jun 8, 2010 | 07:35 PM
  #7  
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anyone have any ideas??

i really need to do this soon!
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Old Jun 8, 2010 | 08:19 PM
  #8  
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Year: 1993
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could you place the high temp sealent by the muffler areas then do the rest in herculiner? Another idea, use herculiner on everything but then place some heat sheild material where you need it if space is available.
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Old Jun 8, 2010 | 08:20 PM
  #9  
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where did you get the floor pan? Did you make it or purchase it?
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Old Jun 8, 2010 | 09:21 PM
  #10  
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For question 1 I would say B. To prevent water from tryin to sneak into the cracks. Ya know? As for question 2. Do the exterior from the door stops down like I did. Very unique looking and scratch proof! There should be a stock heat sheild on top of the muffler on the under side of the jeep. If you are putting your interior back in i wouldn't be too worried bout heat. If you have extra liner if/after the exterior than do the underside of the new floor pans. Thats personally what I'd do, and I did that minus the underside part. Hope this helps.
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 10:41 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by wildspear
could you place the high temp sealent by the muffler areas then do the rest in herculiner? Another idea, use herculiner on everything but then place some heat sheild material where you need it if space is available.
hmm, well if i do any sealing then I'll do everything that needs it. question is where to seal (underneath, on top) and do i need high temp sealant?

Originally Posted by wildspear
where did you get the floor pan? Did you make it or purchase it?
just sheet metal, i fabbed it up.

Originally Posted by KTMrider
For question 1 I would say B. To prevent water from tryin to sneak into the cracks. Ya know? As for question 2. Do the exterior from the door stops down like I did. Very unique looking and scratch proof! There should be a stock heat sheild on top of the muffler on the under side of the jeep. If you are putting your interior back in i wouldn't be too worried bout heat. If you have extra liner if/after the exterior than do the underside of the new floor pans. Thats personally what I'd do, and I did that minus the underside part. Hope this helps.
yeah, i was thinking about sealing from the underside too. but i dont know about the high temp silicone, esp if i want to paint or undercoat it or anything.

i actually did do the rocker panels and exterior already, looks great!

there is no heat shield for the muffler or cat on the underside, i dont think there was either. there was some fiberglass crap on the carpet when i pulled it though. not sure i want that back in there though.
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 02:54 PM
  #12  
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From: Fayetteville North Carolina
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 inline 6
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how much liner did it take to do the floor of ur jeep
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Old Jan 26, 2011 | 12:31 PM
  #13  
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Year: 1989
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I removed the carpet and pad the seats, plastic panels and the floor plugs. I cleaned the dirt from the area under the booster. I caulked the area under the booster with a gun tube of Geoseal 2320. It took about 1 and a half tubes but I built it up to where the water that runs away from the corner. Then I waited a few days for it to harden up a little. I poured water over the area and still had leaks so I worked the sealant into the area with wet fingers. It still leaked but I added sealant to all sides in and out of the electrical jbox where it goes through the firewall. More water revealed less leaks. I sealed the hood cable boot and No leaks. I used a 4" side grinder with a wire wheel to remove All surface rust throughout the cab floorboards. Vacuumed and blasted 100 psi air to remove the ground off rust. Then I had holes under the pedals and a few other places. I applied two coats of Overrust epoxy coating to the entire floorboard. I scuffed that up with a green scotchbrite and applied two coats of Rustolium oil based paint. After two days drying I used 26 gauge aluminum to cover the entire area under the pedals. I applied Byutal sealant to the floor around every hole before I set the new floor panel in place. I used stainless pop rivets every two inches all around the edge. Then I covered all the rivets and the edges on the patch with geoseal and used byutal to fill the cavities on the outside under the patch. I kept my fingers wet with wd40 to prevent the byutal from sticking to my fingers. After a few more days cure time I coated the outside in the fender well with spray undercoat. I did the same to all the area where I applied the geoseal to the firewall, all around the jbox and under the booster. I applied "flashband tape to the small holes around the floor and heated it with a torch to bond it. Then I covered the entire floorboard inside with Hurculiner. A lot o work but a permanent fix
Go to my thread more water leaks to see pics.
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