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Rusty floorboards

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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 02:47 PM
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Default Rusty floorboards

A few weeks ago I had a severe death wobble,in my wife's 1993 XJ, I almost crapped my pants it was so severe, doing 65 on the highway.
Well I got a new track bar & G.C. lower control arms which cured the death wobble.
While I was under the XJ, I noticed some rust. Started poking around with a screwdriver an went through in a few spots.
I pulled the seats, trim, console, pad & carpet to find out that the fiberglass & matting I used a few years ago, didn't last and I had more rust than before.
I purchased frt. & rear floor pans (passenger side ) for $225.00 shipped from N.J..
I'm now in the process of cutting out the old floor and seam sealer.
My step-son is going to weld them in for me.
My question is : What is the best seam sealer to use ? And do any of ya'll know any tips on this project that I'm faced with ?
I put a couple of pic's in my album of my progress. I still have to cut out more of the floor, so the pans fit well.
Sorry for the long post, Mac
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Old Jul 25, 2009 | 04:32 PM
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I used seam sealer from Napa, dries hard a strong.

if you need floors for driver side check out this site might be a little cheaper.

Jeep Parts Page
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 09:08 AM
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Thanx Long Island,
Those panels are cheaper. I didn't know I could buy a full pan. I got 2
pans (frt & rear). I'll check out Napa for the seam sealer.
Mac
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Old Jul 26, 2009 | 03:25 PM
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you could just rhino line everything inside and out after you finish welding the floors in.... that way everything is sealed dry and protected.....
for something like that the "kit" is roughly $90 but after years of driving and then looking under there and seeing the same black coating from when you first layed it down you will be very satisfied with the investment
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Old Jul 27, 2009 | 10:17 AM
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I think I will rhino line the inside once it is welded in.
I just about got the whole old floor out yesterday.
My step-sons bought me electric metal shears last week for my B-Day, which has worked great in cutting out most of the old floor.
It has been a PITA trying to grind down all of the spot welds, but I managed. I still need to cut along the rocker, so the new floor can lay down better. I'll let ya'll know of my progress in the next coming days & weeks. I tried to attach a few pic's, but was denied.
Thanx for the tips, Mac
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Old Jul 28, 2009 | 05:03 PM
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defiantly use seam sealer, its just a must.

and do your self a favor a buy a spot weld drill bit, will make your life a lot easier. Mac tools has a set pretty cheap but expect to run through them quick if you dont use cutting oil with them.
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 02:56 AM
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Long Island XJ, I'll look into the spot weld drill bit.
I work in a machine / manufacturing plant, so I has access to all sorts of cutting oil.
How in the hell do I upload pictures ?
I click on attach files and upload 1 picture and it comes back denied.
Mac
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 03:01 PM
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are you using photo bucket? or any online pic site will do.

you need to up load pics from your comp to the site, then they will list different addresses with the pic. you need to copy the "IMG" address and paste it with your post.

and this post will help, it helped me.

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/showth...=post+pictures
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 03:24 PM
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Default Roofing tar

I'm currently in the process of fixing my floors also, and the guy at the shop that is welding in the new sections suggested I use roofing tar to coat the new floors. I should have it back on saturday and plan to coat the inside and outside with roofing tar.

Could be interesting.
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Old Jul 29, 2009 | 03:28 PM
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I would advise against that. the pass side floor gets pretty hot with the exhaust pipe. IMHO it might get sticky never cure right and all ways stink like tar.

I would recommend a bed liner for inside and there are plenty of automotive undercoating products out there.
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 02:59 PM
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Here is what I started with, 1st picture, and what it looks like at present time.
Thanks for the help with the pic's (resizing).
Mac
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Old Jul 30, 2009 | 05:05 PM
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when i did the floors in mine in the back i used liquid nails very similar to seam sealler but cheaper i couldnt find anywhere that sold the seam sealer except the internet and i needed it faster the liquid nails worked good and its still holding up good
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 09:11 AM
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Default Rusty Floorboards

Well I finally got the project done, along with other summer time projects around the house. That's why it took me so long to complete.
I had my step-son weld in the pans (mig welder) a couple of weeks ago. Then I did some Por-15 on the welds & bare metal (inside & out). 3M seam sealer, and the the Rhino-liner. The Rhino-liner was the messiest part of the job, especially laying on my back and applying to the bottom of the pans. I had it on my hands, soaked thru my clothes, and face. A lot of scrubbing to get that crap off.
It probably would have went smoother if I had taken the muffler & cat off.
I can't put everything back together until I find a small leak on the drivers side. I think it's coming from the windshield seal (gasket).
Here are some pic's.
Mac
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 09:15 AM
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Default Rusty Floorboards

Here are some more pic's.
Mac
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Old Oct 24, 2009 | 09:19 AM
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Default Rusty Floorboards

And a few more pic's, of Rhino-lining.
Mac
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