Makes sense to me! We have a heat wave here in Jersey, so I'm waiting for it to cool down a little bit and then I'll get to work. Thanks!

 

Guess they have long heat waves in Jersey? (lol!)....

 

Al Gore lives on that side of the country. That's why.

 

Cut one open and you'll see the problem. All the $$ was spent on a fancy package and marketing instead of proper gauge wire with good insulation and effective core support. They almost always die due to failed secondary insulation.

 

Heat wave followed by torrential down pours. All good now.. I replaced the CPS with the Echlin, still getting a .2.... It ran good at idle for about 15 minutes and my hopes were high. I put it in reverse to take it around the block and the RPM's climbed to about 1000 and it started it's hesitation again. By the time I pulled back into the driveway, it cleared up and ran good.. I'm starting to lean towards a weak spark that is not burning all the fuel, what are you thoughts on that? Note: The TPS is new and tested, all good..

 

Would the Ballast resistor have anything to do with these symptoms?

 

No, don't think so. The power out the rear goes straight to the pump, me thinks. It's main purpose is just to quiet the pump, added when people complained of the noise I hear. It can be bypassed/eliminated, btw.

My .02 is you need to see 5V at that second, rearward yellow on the ICU.

The ign switch DOES activate two separate wires when on, a yellow and an orange. I suppose actually getting down under there is the best way to be sure..maybe Cruiser or someone can suggest somewhere easier to verify that they both power up.

 

Only in D or R does it stumble, but ok in park?

 

I completely missed this post #80 when I posted earlier. Cruisers TPS adjustment for the new one is in my signature if you need that. .2 ACV directly from the CPS cranking, still sounds too low. Did it just rev up for a second? Mine does that just a little sometimes. Just the puter' and the IAC getting straight I think.

 

Nope, it starts hesitating after it gets a little warm, in P, R or D.

 

Thanks.. Yea I took the new one back out to modify the upper hole to see if that helps..

What's happening is, it will run great for about 10 minutes, all of a sudden the RPM's will bump up a little to about 1000 and then it starts hesitating when I rev it. Then the RPM's drop back down and it runs normal for another 10 minutes, and so on..

 

Hey there Rob..Mine did that! I didn't expect it, but when I changed my 02 sensor it cleared up. Here's my story on that > https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/ren...ce-rms-133153/ It would idle even for a bit, then slow and almost stumble, then rev a little, then do it again.

Besides my somewhat choppy account, there is a link to NAXJ with info on testing...or you might just change it if you don't know the history. They have everything to do with mileage. Of course a new one won't work right if the 02 heater circuit is not working right though.

 

Thank you sir! I'll definitely get into it.

 

Yea, chop the wires to fit a 7/8 box on it, stick in an NTK, make sure the 12v to the 02 heater is good, then that cycling will stop, and the mileage, (which you don't have), will go up..

It's really, really, really, rare for me to tell a poster to buy a new part.

 

Yep, I pulled a bone head move. The bolt for the CPS dropped in the hole. I have fishing wire tied to it but can't pull it up. Is there a way to open it up so I can get to it?