Robert, the stock injectors were crap and prone to external leaking causing fires. there are later model injectors which are an upgrade and can be justified in the name of safety. Programbo here on CF has them.

 

A friend was driving. I HAD had a slow leak there. It would seem it got low enough that the friction of the flexing rubber got the tire hot enough to simply give it up.

 

If the 02 heater wire in that harness shorted to an injector wire it might hold it on.

 

Update: I rented a fuel pressure tester. Took the vacuum line off the fpr and it jumped up 10 PSI, so seems like that is ok.. It is running at 32 PSI at idle. One thing I did notice that did not make sense to me.. Honestly, I was expecting a fast bleed down due to a leaking injector(s) but it was actually the opposite. When I turned the engine off, the PSI actually climbed to 39 PSI. It's been 45 minutes and the pressure has not bled down at all, still at 39 PSI.. In your experience, is this normal?

 

Another update: After about an hour it started to bleed down to about 32 PSI. I brought it up to temp and it started to hesitate when I gave it throttle but immediately went back to normal. I turned it off and back on 3 times and it started normally. The 4th time it wouldn't fire until I held the throttle open to cut the fuel and then it ran normal. It had that "out of timing smell" to it. The fuel system seems to be ok. Do you think I should focus on timing now?

 

It's now an hour later and it won't start at all. Unreal

 

I circled back and tested the CPS. It is showing 248 ohms and 3.63 V when I crank it. The 248 ohms seems to be within spec however, the 3.63 seems low, if I am testing it correctly.. I've seem other postings indicate I should be testing AC on the volt meter, which doesn't make sense to me..

 

Yea. The hall effect transducer puts out AC as the holes in the flywheel/torque plate go buy.

My signature, that link has info on it....

 

That would be about right. The CPS has 5Vdc applied to it, which it switches on and off as the flywheel rotates. That switching chops the applied 5Vdc into to a 2-4 volt AC reading on your meter, depending on how quickly the engine is rotating. The higher the RPM, the higher the voltage reading you'll get.

What is actually there is a square wave, alternating between 5V and 0V, but your meter will display the average as an AC voltage.

 

I did the AC test- it's reading a .1, should be .5 according to the specs. I have replaced the CPS already but I have a feeling it is too far away from the fly wheel. I'm going to see if I can push it up to the fly wheel and re test the reading. Thanks!

 

All this assuming it's the injectors. 3 pages of "expert opinions?"

If the ignition doesn't light the fire, it will get wet inside!

No mention except the first post about spark or coil. How did you test the coil? An OHMETER won't tell if it's working or not.

CHECK THE SPARK AT A PLUG = WHILE IT WON'T START! It must be a crispy BLUE spark, yellow, red etc won't light the fire needed.

 

I took the ICM and coil to my local autozone and they tested it. They told me all good. I was a little leery since things change once it's up to temp, so I did test the spark after re creating the issue. I can't remember if it was indeed blue or not, I wasn't really looking for color. I'm definitely a "learn as I go" rookie. I'll see if I can do that now and check the spark again. I haven't been able to recreate the "no start" due to unplugging the CPS multiple times which I assume resets the ECU. Thanks!

 

Unplugging the CPS does not reset the ECU. Are you saying it starts after unplugging the CPS?

 

Disregard my prev. post. I forgot you have an 88, my comments are for the later HO style CPS. You have the early version that can generate a small AC voltage even unplugged.
Yes 0.1 is too low. There are some posts around here about moving it closer to the flywheel to increase the voltage.

 

No, it doesn't start while the CPS is unplugged. I read somewhere that unplugging the CPS resets the ECU. Oh well, anyhow, I was able to recreate the no start condition and pulled one of the plugs. It had plenty of spark but definitely not blue. It was white and yellowish.