Yet another misfire thread
But once again I feel like all my symptoms are unique.

Car was misfiring with a couple codes that pointed towards CPS and a bad coil.
After a pain in the *** 4wd swap.
(which included a newer CPS on the trans)
Also repalced an oil pump and a rear main. But that doesnt seem to be any issue.
The car was running great minus the extreme drivetrain vibrations with the 4wd driveshaft. And it seemed like the exhaust must have been hitting on the crossmember because the ride was STIFF and vibrated at idle a lot more than previously. I drove for about 30 miles last night and all was good.

Today I go to drive the car and it runs great for about 15 minute drive until it just dies out.
Started right back up and ran fine at idle. Until I attemped to merge into rush hour and the car wouldnt move, it just misfired violently and then died out. I struggled to drive it home.
Replaced the plugs and same problems.
Havent gotten another chance to check the codes.



-Will not rev past 2000 rpm in park without struggling.
If I can manage to get it past 2000 it backfires something nasty.

While driving under load the car is fine until I let off the gas then it struggles to idle, and dies out. (even if it is rolling)

Now the car is struggling to start even, and when I attempt to drive it down the block it will die out after barely running for the length of the street.
It struggles to start back up without cycling the key to fully off.
And even then it is struggling to start.

This is very fustrating I recently starting another job and I will never be able to keep a career going if I cannot figure this out.
So any input would be greatly appreciated!



I am hoping the exhaust being pushed up slightly did not manage to crack the head, but would that be a possibility?
I have read about the TPS and would like to know operating ohms before I go ahead and start replacing crap. So I will look into that tomorrow.
As well as fixing up my crap exhaust problem.

 

Also, let me add I have read and re-read all the threads I could find.
Majority of them ended without the solution to the problems being listed.

A couple of threads match majority of my problems, and I addressed that.
Please dont tell me to search, the answers just arent there.

Also I am going to vacuum test the car tomorrow and see if that reveals anyting

Google showed there is a TSB for carbon fouled valves?
About 6 months ago I ran induction cleaner through an IV into the intake manifold.
So I wouldnt suspect that?

 

With the "rev not going past 2000" is that because its missing or just seems totally gutless like there's just no pedal even though you have it floored?

With the exhaust banging around and that statement it immediately makes me think of a failed plugged up cat where the comb is bouncing around in the body causing partial to full plug dependant on driving and throttle situations.

Tap the cat and listen for loose **** in it, or pop it off and run it real quick to test if it makes a difference (its okay for a few minutes of testing lol just replace it of its bad or reinstall if good)

 

For the sake of the rules of this forum,
lets just say my cat is "fine" and I am 100% sure of this

But yes pedal to the floor engine will maybe hit 2500 but it struggles so hard to reach that even. And 80% of the time it will die out after that.

And I honestly dont think I want to risk going any higher with a mis seeing as Im not sure why its a mis as of yet.

let me add to that, tomorrow before anything, I am also going to get the exhaust re-fabbed up to clear the crossmember correctly

 

The suggestion is well within rules/regulations/laws, just don't drive around without it.

Seriously though, check the internal condition of the cat, I had one do that on a zj I replaced the manifold on, the extra flow is what made me see the cat was also bad, that puppy wouldn't go past 3,000 and started losing rpm right around there no matter how hard I punched it, it's a real dead gutless ****ty feel that I can't compare to anything else I've experienced, and without good exhaust flow, you're gonna misfire.

 

kanooter valve. duhhhh dumb ***

 

I wish it was that simple haha

I dont think youre catching my drift lol
Lets just say, all of my cats are brand new lol

I Need to scan my codes to double check, will do tomorrow.
More I read about other peoples misfires more I am thinking its a messed up wire somewhere.
Since I did let the engine lean a little far back when I was changing the transmissions.

 

Limped to autozone (stalling every 50 feet)
scanned the codes today
P0351, P0352, P0353

So obviously the coils werent reciving signal right, right?

I took out the coil packs and see the connector is broken, I rigged it up with some zip ties to make it stay in place (I wiggled it and make 100% sure it was a solid temp fix)

It started up great, then a short drive down the block it started missing on almost every cylinder again to the point where it died.

Got er back to my garage and the fix is still holding,
I checked over all the harness near the firewall and it wasnt scraped up or anything noticeable.

What the hell can it be?
I am loosing patience with this ignition problem.

 

Previously I ocassionally got an ignition coil #2 code.
But the car ran fine and only limped occasionally.

Add to that I pulled the plugs again, they all where fine. No oil fouling
They are 100% fine.

Can anyone help me out?
Point me in the right direction?

 

Okay with 0 help from this forum I am not really sure why I am still posting on here.

But another more useful forum has pointed me in the direction of a cam position sensor. Could be easily adjusted, but I am going to opt to purchase a new one.

 

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f310/...codes-1298488/

for anyone interested
waiting for a ride then I will report back

 

Did you check the timing. If she jumped timing it would backfire also causing a miss

 

So your kitty ran away? That's sad I'm sorry, but that eliminates the exhaust being clogged, if I understand you correctly.

 

Yea the cam synchro was off causing spark to be off

yup whiskers ran away one day hehe

For anyone interested it was INDEED the camshaft position sensor synchronizer.
The little piece of rounded metal in the top of the synchronizer had play in it from the actual oil drive gear. It seemed as if the screw holding it down was stripped out. (previous owner repair probably)

That just happened to come with a new camshaft position sensor, so I tried to install it but the cheap plastic would not allow my harness plug to fit over it. So I ended up using the older one.

FYI if your using NAPA parts, the synchronizer was too big to fit in the block by an extremely small amount. Some sand paper around the base of the synchronizer and oiling it up allowed it to slide in pretty easy.

So yea it was pretty much the timing was off for spark.