Rough Idle in gear while stopped - P0432 w/ FF data
09-06-2015, 10:56 PM
#16
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Okay ill check the tps tomorrow AM when i do an oil change. I checked it about 10k miles ago and then replaced it with a mopar part at 157k so i didnt even consider rechecking it. I'll also be hunting for vac leaks and exhaust leaks while im under it. Its driving me nuts cause theres no CELs anymore but it still idles funky.
09-07-2015, 04:09 PM
#17
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Okay I didnt get to the tps today. Life got in the way, but when I changed the oil I didnt see any obvious leaks in the exhaust or vacuum lines. Thanks for the detailed procedure ccken.
I will get to this asap
I will get to this asap
09-09-2015, 02:33 PM
#18
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
CEL is back on with P0432 code (100 miles since last CEL). Its always coming on at hot idle. I'll pull the FF data when I get a chance and do the TPS test.
01-23-2016, 09:15 PM
#19
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
UPDATE:
Okay so the CEL is finally staying OFF. The two pre cats were bad and after getting them replaced with direct bolt on replacements from mopar (long story). They also found that the transmission mount was bad so they replaced that as well. Also passed CA smog.
It seems to idle way better but I have this super annoying rumbling/rattling noise that vibrates the entire vehicle especially in reverse and in drive under acceleration. I used to get annoyed by the skid plate rattling against the transfer case, but with the new mount the tcase is nowhere near the skidplate (seriously I don't know how I missed that - I used to even spaced the plate down with washers to keep it from rattling).
So is this a exhaust issue (like now I'm hearing exhaust leaks) or maybe the result of the new transmission mount? Any ideas?
It seems to idle way better but I have this super annoying rumbling/rattling noise that vibrates the entire vehicle especially in reverse and in drive under acceleration. I used to get annoyed by the skid plate rattling against the transfer case, but with the new mount the tcase is nowhere near the skidplate (seriously I don't know how I missed that - I used to even spaced the plate down with washers to keep it from rattling).
So is this a exhaust issue (like now I'm hearing exhaust leaks) or maybe the result of the new transmission mount? Any ideas?
01-30-2016, 01:10 PM
#20
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Update and hopefully resolved
Alright so at the risk of inadvertently "bumping" the thread I know how much people hate others not posting their fixes.
Took to shop and *****ed to them about the vibration after the new trans mount and 2 precats. The aftermarket was too high and caused some stuff to occasionally rattle against the floor boards so they ground the mount down to the right height of the dealer part (mopar wanted $250 for the damned thing). The new precats seem to really help with the crappy idle, so it appears thats resolved as well.
Took to shop and *****ed to them about the vibration after the new trans mount and 2 precats. The aftermarket was too high and caused some stuff to occasionally rattle against the floor boards so they ground the mount down to the right height of the dealer part (mopar wanted $250 for the damned thing). The new precats seem to really help with the crappy idle, so it appears thats resolved as well.
05-15-2016, 09:41 AM
#21
Newbie
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
Same exact jeep same prob
Hi I have black Cherokee 2000 ca emissions with rough idle stumble after motor has warmed up (only in hot weather ) or after it's been drove harder then usual.
My grandpa has replaced almost everything and even a new computer it's better but it's still there just wondering what was the final cure or if it's even fixed? I'm seriously contemplating buying a new motor or wire harness HELP .
My grandpa has replaced almost everything and even a new computer it's better but it's still there just wondering what was the final cure or if it's even fixed? I'm seriously contemplating buying a new motor or wire harness HELP .
05-15-2016, 12:25 PM
#22
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Abzwenthanna,
Saw your post, I will think some about it but I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will chime in soon. Like I said the majority of my issue turned out to be the 2 cats right up near the exhaust manifold.
Welcome to the forum btw!
Saw your post, I will think some about it but I'm sure someone more knowledgeable will chime in soon. Like I said the majority of my issue turned out to be the 2 cats right up near the exhaust manifold.
Welcome to the forum btw!
05-15-2016, 12:48 PM
#23
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Canton, MI
Posts: 8,357
Likes: 0
Received 82 Likes
on
67 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It might be vapor lock. There's a Technical Service Bulletin addressing heat soak. There's an insulation kit you can put on the intake under the fuel injectors.
Last edited by CCKen; 05-15-2016 at 01:05 PM.
03-28-2019, 08:17 PM
#24
Senior Member
nevermind.
Stupid forum will skip to a "related thread" if you hit the End key, then you'll post on a thread you didn't mean to...
Stupid forum will skip to a "related thread" if you hit the End key, then you'll post on a thread you didn't mean to...
Last edited by wizardpc; 03-28-2019 at 08:22 PM.
04-16-2019, 06:04 PM
#25
Newbie
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
I was having the same problem(easy fix)
OK so the Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner finally arrived in the mail. Hopefully going to give it a shot tomorrow. As CCKen advised I'll follow the directions on the can.
Oddly enough the P0432 check engine light turned off again (for like 4 days now wtf) but it still idles like crap in drive with the AC.
I will report back with what happens in the next few days.
BTW....whats a air pump? The cleaner can says:
Remove air cleaner (I'll warm it up with the cleaner on....dont want to leave it off for the entire warmup since I'll be outside under a tree), run engine until at temp, if equipped disconnect air pump. Spray all linkage controls to insure against sticking. With engine running at medium idle (750RPM) spray entire can directly into throttle body. Keep engine running just fast enough to prevent stalling. Avoid excessive engine speed. When can is empty, turn off engine and let stand 5-10 mins. Restart and run at low speed for 5 mins to completely expel cleaner. Reconnect air pump hose to engine if equipped.
Oddly enough the P0432 check engine light turned off again (for like 4 days now wtf) but it still idles like crap in drive with the AC.
I will report back with what happens in the next few days.
BTW....whats a air pump? The cleaner can says:
Remove air cleaner (I'll warm it up with the cleaner on....dont want to leave it off for the entire warmup since I'll be outside under a tree), run engine until at temp, if equipped disconnect air pump. Spray all linkage controls to insure against sticking. With engine running at medium idle (750RPM) spray entire can directly into throttle body. Keep engine running just fast enough to prevent stalling. Avoid excessive engine speed. When can is empty, turn off engine and let stand 5-10 mins. Restart and run at low speed for 5 mins to completely expel cleaner. Reconnect air pump hose to engine if equipped.
03-13-2020, 08:23 PM
#26
So my 2 bits on the problem. I have a 300K mile 95 Jeep Cherokee (XJ) and one night it got run hot and the next morning it was having a rough idle.
I deduced that cylindes 1,2,3, & 6 were firing but that 4 & 5 were not with an engine balance test (aka pulling the fuel injector wire harness 1 at a time and seeing which cylinders changed the idle) 4 & 5 made no change in the engine performance when they had injector harness removed, therefore they are dead/misfiring. I did the check engine light analog read and got a code 27. I cleaned my injectors manually with carb cleaner and opening them with battery voltage CAREFULLY (can fry these things) and I carefully cleaned them, well less carefully than I should have maybe. Anyways after a long witch hunt of cleaning grounds and testing injectors I settled on the SCREWDRIVER test to tell if injectors were indeed CLICKING on and off, they defintely were with harness on, and not clicking with harness off *still could be electrical problem/there is a known chafing area in the wire harness where it runs next to the engine, but right at the vehicle firewall.. So then I swapped an injector from known good operating cylinder 1 and put it in 4,-- still dead on 4 and 1 still ran with different injector showing that injectors were not the problem. Finally my nooob self came around to doing a compression test and sure enoough 150 PSI across the board except on 4 & 5, they had 0 compression. So current prognosis is blown head gasket between 4 & 5, no coolant leak detected so can't use liquid head gasket. Going to have to tear it apart and mount new gasket, see what it looks like in there anyways. DO NOT use seafoam upstream of your MAP sensor, unless i'm wrong on that it can damage the sensor and car doesn't run without it, easy to replace and test that sensor anyways. I verified my Cam sensor, TPS sensor, MAP sensor and since car runs with 4/6 cylinders on that means crankshaft position snesor is good to theortetically. Anyways hope this helps.
TLDR: Rough idle, rough acceleration, code 27, No compression in 2 adjacent cylinders==blown head gaske==not fuel injector problem (could be a valve issue too but will see later) Thanks for your help and good luck all!
https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/jeep
I deduced that cylindes 1,2,3, & 6 were firing but that 4 & 5 were not with an engine balance test (aka pulling the fuel injector wire harness 1 at a time and seeing which cylinders changed the idle) 4 & 5 made no change in the engine performance when they had injector harness removed, therefore they are dead/misfiring. I did the check engine light analog read and got a code 27. I cleaned my injectors manually with carb cleaner and opening them with battery voltage CAREFULLY (can fry these things) and I carefully cleaned them, well less carefully than I should have maybe. Anyways after a long witch hunt of cleaning grounds and testing injectors I settled on the SCREWDRIVER test to tell if injectors were indeed CLICKING on and off, they defintely were with harness on, and not clicking with harness off *still could be electrical problem/there is a known chafing area in the wire harness where it runs next to the engine, but right at the vehicle firewall.. So then I swapped an injector from known good operating cylinder 1 and put it in 4,-- still dead on 4 and 1 still ran with different injector showing that injectors were not the problem. Finally my nooob self came around to doing a compression test and sure enoough 150 PSI across the board except on 4 & 5, they had 0 compression. So current prognosis is blown head gasket between 4 & 5, no coolant leak detected so can't use liquid head gasket. Going to have to tear it apart and mount new gasket, see what it looks like in there anyways. DO NOT use seafoam upstream of your MAP sensor, unless i'm wrong on that it can damage the sensor and car doesn't run without it, easy to replace and test that sensor anyways. I verified my Cam sensor, TPS sensor, MAP sensor and since car runs with 4/6 cylinders on that means crankshaft position snesor is good to theortetically. Anyways hope this helps.
TLDR: Rough idle, rough acceleration, code 27, No compression in 2 adjacent cylinders==blown head gaske==not fuel injector problem (could be a valve issue too but will see later) Thanks for your help and good luck all!
https://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/jeep
Last edited by Dylan Clodgo; 03-13-2020 at 08:26 PM.
10-20-2020, 09:32 PM
#27
Newbie
Join Date: Oct 2020
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Working on my partner's '96 Cherokee 4 liter, 5 speed; she bought new 240,000 miles ago - on starting a week ago, the fuel gauge jerked when started, then dropped from the 1/3 tank that was in it to indicate about an inch below Empty! After spending a couple hours opening up the dash and figuring out how to disconnect the fuel pump module connector in the rear to test stuff, the trouble was at the gauge - one of the 3 screws that secures the gauge to the housing and also to the printed circuit on the back of the gauge cluster had loosened just enough for the circuit to open.
So in case it helps anybody else, was an extremely easy fix aside from the time crawling around under the Jeep!
So in case it helps anybody else, was an extremely easy fix aside from the time crawling around under the Jeep!
07-26-2022, 07:52 PM
#28
Newbie
May not be it
Hello everyone,
I have a 2000 cherokee classic with 4.0L I6, and is a CA emissions. Has about 168,900 miles on it. Decent Oil Pressure. I have a rough idle issue that occurs only in drive or reverse at a complete stop, which is made waay worse with the A/C on. The RPMs seem to hang low at 500 and theres a stumbling vibration, nowhere near as bad as I went through with the heatsoak misses, but still noticeable. The CEL keeps coming on with P0432 (main cat bank 2 below threshold).
Heres a description of my fight with idle issues:
150,580 miles Replaced ignition coil with autozone duralast and 6 new bosch spark plugs
150,605 Throttle body and IAC removed and cleaned then reinstalled
150,692 Removed and replaced all 4 O2 sensors with rockauto NTKs
154,051 Added gumout regane high mileage fuel system cleaner
154,204 Timing chain replaced
156,878 DTCs: P0302, P0202 then erased
157,667 Removed fuel injectors and cleaned (backflushed with seafoam, air compressor, and battery). Replaced injector #2. Installed TSB heatshield and had PCM reprogrammed by dealership for heatsoak issue (TSB:18-039-03). All 6 fuel injector O-rings replaced as well.
157,730 Removed and replaced TPS and IAC motor with mopar parts. Then used Autozone fuel pressure gauge: 0 PSI 30 minutes after shutdown, 20 PSI at first key-on (no start), 44 PSI at second key-on (also didnt start it), 46 PSI at hot idle
157,835 Compression test: At 3 cranks, all 6 cylinders were within 140 to 150 PSI. At 4 cranks, all 6 cylinders were within 150 to 157 PSI. Removed and replaced all 6 spark plugs with regular champion double platinum copper core and gapped to .0035. I added 1/3 a can of seafoam to the full fuel tank.
159,845 P0432 (after hot trip to desert) and manually erased
160,279 P0432 and manually erased
160,889 P0432 and manually erased
163,420 Replaced all 4 O2 sensors again with NTKs from rockauto
166,000 Complete cooling system overhaul and new serpentine belt. Also installed extended idle switch. Fixed some vacuum leaks on the passenger side.
168,000 Got back from Northern Nevada (went thru death valley, outside temps around 123F). A few weeks later I was sitting idling with extended idle on for about 50 minutes in park when the RPMs jumped and went racing everywhere and then idle switch stopped working for awhile (I posted a thread on this but I still haven't figured it out- don't mean to double post things). Ever since then the idle has been crappy. I went home and disconnected idle switch and reset the ECU with no change in the idle.
168,319 P0432 and this time I used a program to read the FF data
I typed it out exactly as it is on the screenshot
Frame Number: 0
Fuel System 1 Status: CL
Fuel System 2 Status: CL
Calculated Load Value: 5.9%
Engine Coolant Temperature: 207F
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: 0.0%
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 3: -40.6%
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: 3.1%
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 3: -36.7%
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2: -4.7%
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 4: -43.8%
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2: 2.3%
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 4: -35.9%
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure: 15.1 inHg
Engine RPM: 640 RPM
Vehicle Speed Sensor: 0 mph
I know diagnosis over the internet is really hard but I just need some pointers. If I have to replace the cat I will try to learn how to....or just pay a shop if it's during the semester. I know I need to get it smogged soon, so the CEL has got to be figured out....as does the idle.
I have a 2000 cherokee classic with 4.0L I6, and is a CA emissions. Has about 168,900 miles on it. Decent Oil Pressure. I have a rough idle issue that occurs only in drive or reverse at a complete stop, which is made waay worse with the A/C on. The RPMs seem to hang low at 500 and theres a stumbling vibration, nowhere near as bad as I went through with the heatsoak misses, but still noticeable. The CEL keeps coming on with P0432 (main cat bank 2 below threshold).
Heres a description of my fight with idle issues:
150,580 miles Replaced ignition coil with autozone duralast and 6 new bosch spark plugs
150,605 Throttle body and IAC removed and cleaned then reinstalled
150,692 Removed and replaced all 4 O2 sensors with rockauto NTKs
154,051 Added gumout regane high mileage fuel system cleaner
154,204 Timing chain replaced
156,878 DTCs: P0302, P0202 then erased
157,667 Removed fuel injectors and cleaned (backflushed with seafoam, air compressor, and battery). Replaced injector #2. Installed TSB heatshield and had PCM reprogrammed by dealership for heatsoak issue (TSB:18-039-03). All 6 fuel injector O-rings replaced as well.
157,730 Removed and replaced TPS and IAC motor with mopar parts. Then used Autozone fuel pressure gauge: 0 PSI 30 minutes after shutdown, 20 PSI at first key-on (no start), 44 PSI at second key-on (also didnt start it), 46 PSI at hot idle
157,835 Compression test: At 3 cranks, all 6 cylinders were within 140 to 150 PSI. At 4 cranks, all 6 cylinders were within 150 to 157 PSI. Removed and replaced all 6 spark plugs with regular champion double platinum copper core and gapped to .0035. I added 1/3 a can of seafoam to the full fuel tank.
159,845 P0432 (after hot trip to desert) and manually erased
160,279 P0432 and manually erased
160,889 P0432 and manually erased
163,420 Replaced all 4 O2 sensors again with NTKs from rockauto
166,000 Complete cooling system overhaul and new serpentine belt. Also installed extended idle switch. Fixed some vacuum leaks on the passenger side.
168,000 Got back from Northern Nevada (went thru death valley, outside temps around 123F). A few weeks later I was sitting idling with extended idle on for about 50 minutes in park when the RPMs jumped and went racing everywhere and then idle switch stopped working for awhile (I posted a thread on this but I still haven't figured it out- don't mean to double post things). Ever since then the idle has been crappy. I went home and disconnected idle switch and reset the ECU with no change in the idle.
168,319 P0432 and this time I used a program to read the FF data
I typed it out exactly as it is on the screenshot
Frame Number: 0
Fuel System 1 Status: CL
Fuel System 2 Status: CL
Calculated Load Value: 5.9%
Engine Coolant Temperature: 207F
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: 0.0%
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 3: -40.6%
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 1: 3.1%
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 3: -36.7%
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 2: -4.7%
Short Term Fuel Trim Bank 4: -43.8%
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 2: 2.3%
Long Term Fuel Trim Bank 4: -35.9%
Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure: 15.1 inHg
Engine RPM: 640 RPM
Vehicle Speed Sensor: 0 mph
I know diagnosis over the internet is really hard but I just need some pointers. If I have to replace the cat I will try to learn how to....or just pay a shop if it's during the semester. I know I need to get it smogged soon, so the CEL has got to be figured out....as does the idle.
hope this information helps you
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JoeGons
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
8
02-27-2014 03:32 PM
Piriaka
Stock Grand Cherokee Tech. All ZJ/WJ/WK Non-modified/stock questions go here!
8
02-23-2013 04:41 AM
alpine.adrenaline
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here
0
11-08-2009 12:44 PM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)