Rough idle after 2nd start up
#1
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0ho
Rough idle after 2nd start up
I know there has been other thread about this, i have used the search feature however mine was doing it when i tried starting it when it was +200 degrees, since then i put a stronger e-fan ,on toggle switch and let it run a few mins before getting out of the car, put fan shroud on stock mech fan, put hood vents on, new radiator, 180* stat
after doing all that ill run about 130 on the HWY (55-70MPH) (no efan)
on everyday city traffic ill hit about 180-190 (stop n go)
however i can get out of my XJ do what i gotta do, start her up and it still has a rough idle (temp is reading 150ish)
i have
ford 19lbs injectors
Rusty's cat back exhaust
Homebrew cold air intake
homebored Throttle body
Accell Plugs/wires/cap/rotor/coil
lift n tires (can't imagine them effecting it)
and everything listed above
is it possible it could just be a bad injector? (pulled them off my bronco were not new)
i just have a kid on the way in 16days (due date) and money is thin as it is so i don't wana do something that isn't needed and waste the money
THANKS
CHEROKEE FORUM
Edit:
also the other day (hasn't done this but once) i had a few things to do in town, and after running around, turning her on and off, the last time it wanted to die i had to hit the gas to keep her alive
after doing all that ill run about 130 on the HWY (55-70MPH) (no efan)
on everyday city traffic ill hit about 180-190 (stop n go)
however i can get out of my XJ do what i gotta do, start her up and it still has a rough idle (temp is reading 150ish)
i have
ford 19lbs injectors
Rusty's cat back exhaust
Homebrew cold air intake
homebored Throttle body
Accell Plugs/wires/cap/rotor/coil
lift n tires (can't imagine them effecting it)
and everything listed above
is it possible it could just be a bad injector? (pulled them off my bronco were not new)
i just have a kid on the way in 16days (due date) and money is thin as it is so i don't wana do something that isn't needed and waste the money
THANKS
CHEROKEE FORUM
Edit:
also the other day (hasn't done this but once) i had a few things to do in town, and after running around, turning her on and off, the last time it wanted to die i had to hit the gas to keep her alive
Last edited by iyzak the xj; 09-05-2012 at 08:37 PM.
#2
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Heat soak possibly... but I think that's far more common on 99 and up XJ's, so maybe not. Sure sounds like the same thing.
Heat from the exhaust manifold percolates fuel in the injectors so when you restart, the engine is trying to run off fuel vapor, until it clears out and cold, fresh fuel is coming out of the injectors.
Heat shielding the injectors will prevent this. The completely cure the problem would be to redesign the manifolds.
Heat from the exhaust manifold percolates fuel in the injectors so when you restart, the engine is trying to run off fuel vapor, until it clears out and cold, fresh fuel is coming out of the injectors.
Heat shielding the injectors will prevent this. The completely cure the problem would be to redesign the manifolds.
#3
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0ho
Heat soak possibly... but I think that's far more common on 99 and up XJ's, so maybe not. Sure sounds like the same thing.
Heat from the exhaust manifold percolates fuel in the injectors so when you restart, the engine is trying to run off fuel vapor, until it clears out and cold, fresh fuel is coming out of the injectors.
Heat shielding the injectors will prevent this. The completely cure the problem would be to redesign the manifolds.
Heat from the exhaust manifold percolates fuel in the injectors so when you restart, the engine is trying to run off fuel vapor, until it clears out and cold, fresh fuel is coming out of the injectors.
Heat shielding the injectors will prevent this. The completely cure the problem would be to redesign the manifolds.
if they can cool off spark plugs next to the header i couldn't imagine it not keeping the injector cool
i figured since it isn't running very hot at all the heat soak thing wouldn't be it
#4
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
When you park and stop the engine, the heat rises. There's no more coolant flow, no more fan, no more air from movement on the road.
So, the heat gets hotter and hotter.
#5
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have the same problem, it happens to me sometimes when i restart at 210+, then i tap the gas a few times and everythings fine
#6
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
This sounds similar to the problem I had awhile back. If I did swarm start ( would happen even when below 180) I would have a hesitation/ stutter and would feel as if the engine was about to stall but would go away after a few seconds. For me, my fuel pump wasn't holding rail pressure very well when off. I have the same fuel
Pump but now when starting I turn the ignition on and off 3-4 times for a second or two prior to turning over the engine to prime the rail. I also let the engine sit for 30 seconds or so before driving off on a warm start. The problem seems to be gone for the most part
Pump but now when starting I turn the ignition on and off 3-4 times for a second or two prior to turning over the engine to prime the rail. I also let the engine sit for 30 seconds or so before driving off on a warm start. The problem seems to be gone for the most part
#7
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0ho
This sounds similar to the problem I had awhile back. If I did swarm start ( would happen even when below 180) I would have a hesitation/ stutter and would feel as if the engine was about to stall but would go away after a few seconds. For me, my fuel pump wasn't holding rail pressure very well when off. I have the same fuel
Pump but now when starting I turn the ignition on and off 3-4 times for a second or two prior to turning over the engine to prime the rail. I also let the engine sit for 30 seconds or so before driving off on a warm start. The problem seems to be gone for the most part
Pump but now when starting I turn the ignition on and off 3-4 times for a second or two prior to turning over the engine to prime the rail. I also let the engine sit for 30 seconds or so before driving off on a warm start. The problem seems to be gone for the most part
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