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Rough idle?

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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 11:20 PM
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Default Rough idle?

So I have a 95 XJ with the 4.0 and seems to have a rough idle. It has a slight shake when it's in park, I can feel it on the steering wheel. The vibration isn't crazy but it's enough to bother me. I am unsure of what exactly could be causing it. I don't want to throw a bunch of parts in it without fixing the initial problem.

Tomorrow I will be installing new cap and rotor, pplugs and wires and possibly sea foam it. What else should I do to test and it fix it?
Thanks
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Old Nov 7, 2014 | 11:21 PM
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I had a thought it could be the tbrottle position sensor, however it's not having the symptoms.
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by OneWheelWonder
Tomorrow I will be installing new cap and rotor, pplugs and wires
Thanks
That'll probably take care of it.
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Radi
That'll probably take care of it.
alright, I'll post again tomorrow and keep it updated!
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 06:59 AM
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Also clean the throttle body:

Courtesy of TJWalker:
--------------------------------------------------------------------
The Idle Air Control (IAC) is mounted on the back of the throttle body. (front for 87-90) The valve controls the idle speed of the engine by controlling the amount of air flowing through the air control passage. It consists of a stepper motor that moves a pintle shaped plunger in and out of the air control passage. When the valve plunger is retracted, the air control passage flows more air which raises the idle speed. When the valve plunger is extended, the air control passage flows less air which lowers the idle speed. Over time and miles, the IAC can get carboned up which can have an adverse affect on idle quality. Cleaning the IAC may restore proper function and is an easy procedure to perform and good preventive maintenance so it is never a bad idea. This should be part of a normal tune-up procedure and whenever idle/stalling issues are present.

CLEANING THE JEEP 4.0 IDLE AIR CONTROL

Remove the air filter cover, associated hoses and the rubber boot that goes from the air filter cover to the throttle body. Remove the IAC with a Torx driver (2 bolts; one can be kind of hard to get to). On 91 and later, it may be easier to just remove the whole throttle body. Be sure to use a new throttle body to manifold gasket when reinstalling.

“Gently” wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body. Gasket/O-ring on the IAC can be re-used if it is not damaged

Clean the IAC with a spray can of throttle body cleaner; inexpensive and available at any place that sells auto parts. Throttle body cleaner is recommended rather than carburetor cleaner as it is less harsh, safe for throttle body coatings and oxygen sensors. Use cleaner, a rag and a toothbrush and or Q-Tips. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle that protrudes from the IAC as it is fragile and you could damage it.

Thoroughly spray clean and flush where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same spray cleaner

It is also a good idea to clean the entire throttle body bore itself, the butterfly valve inside of the throttle body and it’s edges, and all associated linkage as long as you have things disassembled

Revised 10-6-2014
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Also clean the throttle body: Courtesy of TJWalker: -------------------------------------------------------------------- The Idle Air Control (IAC) is mounted on the back of the throttle body. (front for 87-90) The valve controls the idle speed of the engine by controlling the amount of air flowing through the air control passage. It consists of a stepper motor that moves a pintle shaped plunger in and out of the air control passage. When the valve plunger is retracted, the air control passage flows more air which raises the idle speed. When the valve plunger is extended, the air control passage flows less air which lowers the idle speed. Over time and miles, the IAC can get carboned up which can have an adverse affect on idle quality. Cleaning the IAC may restore proper function and is an easy procedure to perform and good preventive maintenance so it is never a bad idea. This should be part of a normal tune-up procedure and whenever idle/stalling issues are present. CLEANING THE JEEP 4.0 IDLE AIR CONTROL Remove the air filter cover, associated hoses and the rubber boot that goes from the air filter cover to the throttle body. Remove the IAC with a Torx driver (2 bolts; one can be kind of hard to get to). On 91 and later, it may be easier to just remove the whole throttle body. Be sure to use a new throttle body to manifold gasket when reinstalling. “Gently” wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body. Gasket/O-ring on the IAC can be re-used if it is not damaged Clean the IAC with a spray can of throttle body cleaner; inexpensive and available at any place that sells auto parts. Throttle body cleaner is recommended rather than carburetor cleaner as it is less harsh, safe for throttle body coatings and oxygen sensors. Use cleaner, a rag and a toothbrush and or Q-Tips. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle that protrudes from the IAC as it is fragile and you could damage it. Thoroughly spray clean and flush where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same spray cleaner It is also a good idea to clean the entire throttle body bore itself, the butterfly valve inside of the throttle body and it’s edges, and all associated linkage as long as you have things disassembled Revised 10-6-2014
if the tune up doesnt do much this is next on my list!
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by OneWheelWonder
if the tune up doesnt do much this is next on my list!
That's PART OF a tune-up!!!
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
That's PART OF a tune-up!!!
as I said, I'm doing this step by step. I want to know what's exactly causing it, hopefully helping others as well. Calm down.
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 02:13 PM
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Cap and rotor replaced, seems to help a little... But still a lightly rough idle. Will be doing plugs tonight.
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by OneWheelWonder
as I said, I'm doing this step by step. I want to know what's exactly causing it, hopefully helping others as well. Calm down.
Alright, I see what you're doing. Preferable in my opinion.
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 04:14 PM
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Time for plugs and wires
Attached Thumbnails Rough idle?-image-2056229154.jpg  
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 07:15 PM
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New plugs and wires seemed to help a decent amount with the overall drivability. However still have a very slight shake I can feel on the steering wheel at idle.. Any suggestions? How do I clean the intake and motor internally the best?

Thanks
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by OneWheelWonder
New plugs and wires seemed to help a decent amount with the overall drivability. However still have a very slight shake I can feel on the steering wheel at idle.. Any suggestions? How do I clean the intake and motor internally the best?

Thanks
Haven't cleaned IAC and throttle body yet?
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Old Nov 8, 2014 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Haven't cleaned IAC and throttle body yet?
not yet, probably going to on Tuesday... Any suggestions on what to use and how?
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Old Nov 9, 2014 | 09:14 AM
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You can use carb cleaner or throttle body cleaner. I used brake cleaner on mine because it was all I had access to...(not sure if others would recommend it but it worked great for me.)

The IAC is easy to get at and clean. Read Cruiser54's tip that he pasted in earlier in this thread. You can probably scrub out the throttle body reasonably well without even removing it from the intake.
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