Quote:
i run 10w 30 castrol gtx high mileage with a purolator gold filterOriginally Posted by RTorrez1
What brand of oil filter do you have. When I first bought my 98Xj it had a fram filter and it had a bad knock when I would first start it up. Hopefully it's as simple as putting a good quality filter such as Mopar, Wix or Napa Gold.
Quote:
i changer the ccv elbows recently and it looked like there was a little but not much...Originally Posted by cruiser54
Ever shine a light into the oil filler hole to assess the amount of sludge in there?
Quote:
ill have to check that when i get out of work... ill get back to u on that oneOriginally Posted by cruiser54
If you suspect a lifter tick, shut it right off, wait 20 seconds and re-start. Is the noise gone? Oil filter like Robert says, too.
Quote:
Bent pushrod or bad rocker arm won't go away once it warms up.
Rod knock tends to be quieter at idle, louder at higher rpm, often worst when you decelerate. If you disconnect the plugs one by one a rod noise will get quieter or go away entirely when you deactivate the bad cylinder.
I'm gonna go with piston slap, keeping in mind that I'm 99% guessing, lol.
How can you tell your rockers are getting oil by the weight of the oil you are using?
You really have to pull the valve cover and look.
Originally Posted by Radi
Got a recording of the noise? Bent pushrod or bad rocker arm won't go away once it warms up.
Rod knock tends to be quieter at idle, louder at higher rpm, often worst when you decelerate. If you disconnect the plugs one by one a rod noise will get quieter or go away entirely when you deactivate the bad cylinder.
I'm gonna go with piston slap, keeping in mind that I'm 99% guessing, lol.
How can you tell your rockers are getting oil by the weight of the oil you are using?
You really have to pull the valve cover and look.
Quote:
its not all the time so i guess its not a knockOriginally Posted by motoo344
In my experience rod knock is usually present all the time. I had it in my camaro, buddy got it in his supra. Noise would increase with rpm and never went away. Hopefully its not that, some good suggestions on what to check for here.
Member
Check the easy stuff first before worrying about the engine...
loose driveplate bolts (this will sometimes disappear in "D")
exhaust manifold leak (this will disappear as engine warms up)
loose driveplate bolts (this will sometimes disappear in "D")
exhaust manifold leak (this will disappear as engine warms up)
Quote:
loose driveplate bolts (this will sometimes disappear in "D")
exhaust manifold leak (this will disappear as engine warms up)
ok so it doesnt go away in drive... and idk about the manifold but it doesnt sound like a manifold tick... i havent checked the driveplate bolts or the manifold bolts though... i will check the manifold bolts tomroow night when i fix my upper control arm bushingsOriginally Posted by Carl48
Check the easy stuff first before worrying about the engine...loose driveplate bolts (this will sometimes disappear in "D")
exhaust manifold leak (this will disappear as engine warms up)
Member
Sometimes the exhaust manifold studs will break off after being subjected to umpteen heat/cold cycles but this is not too common.
More common is an exhaust manifold crack. With the engine cold, hook up a shop vac to the tailpipe in blower mode and pressurize the exhaust system...spray the exhaust manifold with soap bubble solution and check for leaks.
More common is an exhaust manifold crack. With the engine cold, hook up a shop vac to the tailpipe in blower mode and pressurize the exhaust system...spray the exhaust manifold with soap bubble solution and check for leaks.
Quote:
More common is an exhaust manifold crack. With the engine cold, hook up a shop vac to the tailpipe in blower mode and pressurize the exhaust system...spray the exhaust manifold with soap bubble solution and check for leaks.
my manifold isnt even 3 oil changes old...Originally Posted by Carl48
Sometimes the exhaust manifold studs will break off after being subjected to umpteen heat/cold cycles but this is not too common.More common is an exhaust manifold crack. With the engine cold, hook up a shop vac to the tailpipe in blower mode and pressurize the exhaust system...spray the exhaust manifold with soap bubble solution and check for leaks.
::CF Moderator::
cruiser54
::CF Moderator::
close
May 16, 2024
- Join DateAug 2011
- LocationPrescott, Az
- Posts:43,971
- Year1990
- ModelCherokee (XJ)
- Engine4.0
-
Likes:1,979
-
Liked:1,578 Times in 1,279 Posts
Check the flexplate bolts..............
Member
Check for an exhaust manifold leak (could be at the gasket and not necessarily a crack) and check the driveplate bolts anyway...this stuff is easy to do before tearing apart an engine in search of elusive internal noises.
::CF Moderator::
cruiser54
::CF Moderator::
close
May 16, 2024
- Join DateAug 2011
- LocationPrescott, Az
- Posts:43,971
- Year1990
- ModelCherokee (XJ)
- Engine4.0
-
Likes:1,979
-
Liked:1,578 Times in 1,279 Posts
Quote:
Uh, yeah.Originally Posted by Carl48
Check for an exhaust manifold leak (could be at the gasket and not necessarily a crack) and check the driveplate bolts anyway...this stuff is easy to do before tearing apart an engine is search of elusive internal noises.
Chipmaker says:
"Way more problems get solved by using your five senses under your hood rather than your ten fingers on a keyboard"
Quote:
ok i will check that stuff on my next day off. thanks again everyoneOriginally Posted by Carl48
Check for an exhaust manifold leak (could be at the gasket and not necessarily a crack) and check the driveplate bolts anyway...this stuff is easy to do before tearing apart an engine is search of elusive internal noises.
::CF Moderator::
cruiser54
::CF Moderator::
close
May 16, 2024
- Join DateAug 2011
- LocationPrescott, Az
- Posts:43,971
- Year1990
- ModelCherokee (XJ)
- Engine4.0
-
Likes:1,979
-
Liked:1,578 Times in 1,279 Posts
Quote:
Why do you think that? How long have you had it?Originally Posted by 1993jeepcherokeecountry
What is rod knock? I think I might have it.