RMS Install

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Mar 5, 2014 | 01:06 AM

#16

DFlintstone

CF Veteran

Joined: Aug 2011

Posts: 10,489

Likes: 24

From: Nor-Cal Coast

Year: 90,84

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0,2.5

And sawdust in the differential! Trans fluid for the oxidized paint. Black the tires with bleach.

Mar 5, 2014 | 01:12 AM

#17

CrawdadSlim

Seasoned Member

Joined: May 2013

Posts: 448

Likes: 0

From: Sucka Free East Bay Cali

Year: 2000

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0

Hey, I use bleeche white on all my tires. Best tire cleaner ever.

Mar 5, 2014 | 06:14 AM

#18

Jeepin'Hubb's

Member

Joined: Feb 2014

Posts: 243

Likes: 0

From: Kansas

Year: 1997

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0 I6

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFlintstone

Couple things. Usually when posters are after the RM, it's really the O rings in the oil filter adapter have hardened. It blows straight back and drips off the bell housing, mimicking a bad RM. See here>

OIL FILTER ADAPRER O RINGS http://www.myjeepxj.com/cherokee-rep...filter-adapter And a link with torx.. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/oi...o-ring-127359/ Btw, use BLACK O rings, (not blue, or green)

Also, in my dad's day, a used car dealer might change a rear main seal to get it to stop long enough to sell the car. Bearing wear could actually let the crank move over (down), enough to not meet the (worn) seal lip.

Anyway, that front tube off the Valve cover needs to be free to vent. If goo in blow-by has plugged up some little aftermarket filter, crankcase pressure will make it **** from everywhere, including the rear main.

Doesn't have anything to do with the OP's problem. His upper seal keeps tearing during installation, he's trying to figure out why... And I would think the back end of the valve cover leaking would be a more common problem that mimmicks the rms imop.

Last edited by Jeepin'Hubb's; Mar 5, 2014 at 06:17 AM.

Mar 5, 2014 | 07:58 PM

#19

abdon

Thread Starter

Newbie

Joined: Sep 2013

Posts: 12

Likes: 0

Model: Cherokee

Well third time was the charm, used a straw shoehorn this time and it slid in no problem, so far there has been no oil leaking.

Mar 5, 2014 | 08:26 PM

#20

Jeepin'Hubb's

Member

Joined: Feb 2014

Posts: 243

Likes: 0

From: Kansas

Year: 1997

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0 I6

Quote:

Originally Posted by abdon

Well third time was the charm, used a straw shoehorn this time and it slid in no problem, so far there has been no oil leaking.

Cool glad to hear you got it!

Mar 5, 2014 | 08:48 PM

#21

DFlintstone

CF Veteran

Joined: Aug 2011

Posts: 10,489

Likes: 24

From: Nor-Cal Coast

Year: 90,84

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0,2.5

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeepin'Hubb's

Doesn't have anything to do with the OP's problem.

I take any opportunity to point out that the (common) O-ring failure mimics a bad rear main seal, and mention that excessive crankcase pressure will make it **** like a big dog. (and will again).

Abdon, having not done mine, (at 278K), I'm curious about what a "straw" shoehorn is?

Last edited by DFlintstone; Mar 5, 2014 at 08:52 PM. Reason: 278

Mar 5, 2014 | 11:53 PM

#22

abdon

Thread Starter

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Joined: Sep 2013

Posts: 12

Likes: 0

Model: Cherokee

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFlintstone

I saw it on YouTube, it's just a normal drinking straw cut to about 2", cut a slit length wise then cut it a 45° tip, worked better then the one that came with it.

Mar 5, 2014 | 11:59 PM

#23

DFlintstone

CF Veteran

Joined: Aug 2011

Posts: 10,489

Likes: 24

From: Nor-Cal Coast

Year: 90,84

Model: Cherokee

Engine: 4.0,2.5

Quote:

Originally Posted by abdon

I saw it on YouTube, it's just a normal drinking straw cut to about 2", cut a slit length wise then cut it a 45° tip, worked better then the one that came with it.

Thanks! Little tips like that can be a lifesaver.

Mar 6, 2014 | 12:04 AM

#24

abdon

Thread Starter

Newbie

Joined: Sep 2013

Posts: 12

Likes: 0

Model: Cherokee

Quote:

Originally Posted by DFlintstone

Thanks! Little tips like that can be a lifesaver.

Here's some others that would've saved me hours, remove the starter and steering dampener for clearance, take a picture of the stud location and tranny cooler line brackets, my old pan gasket was a royal pain to scrape off until I got some aerosol paint stripper(use caution with it because it burns), I used a mini sledge and a 2x4 to break free the pan.