RMS Install
Okay so I'm replacing my rms and upon sliding the upper part of the two piece seal I slid off a chunk about the size of a grain of rice on the upper part of the seal. I've done this twice so far so I'm definitely aggravated with this thing. So my question is, would this small missing chunk leak oil? Maybe some of you guys had the same experience. Thanks!
P.S I've also lubed up the seal and shot dish soap through the channel via syringe.
P.S I've also lubed up the seal and shot dish soap through the channel via syringe.
Hard to say if it will leak or not without seeing exactly where the chunk is taken out. But....in any case if it was me, I would buy a new seal and try again rather than put it all back together and have it leak.
True, ill go ahead and do that, was just seeing if anyone else had a similar experience. Just have to be more patient I guess.
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I'm lubing everything up, using the shoehorn and just sliding it in with my hands, I do remove the shoehorn after getting it started then when I'm about 2/3 into it it gets real stubborn so ill push harder then slice it goes followed by some cursing.
Pretty darn sure. I checked the valve cover bolts...fixing that leak is on my to-do list this spring. Going to try new valve cover gasket first then do the rms again. Also positive its not the oil filter adapter or the pressure sending unit.
Seasoned Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 448
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From: Sucka Free East Bay Cali
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I've heard of many people who did the rms only to have it leak again shortly after installation. I'm not gonna drop my pan unless it leaks like a sieve or I replace the oil pump and look at the bearings. Then it's rms time.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
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From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Couple things. Usually when posters are after the RM, it's really the O rings in the oil filter adapter have hardened. It blows straight back and drips off the bell housing, mimicking a bad RM. See here>
OIL FILTER ADAPRER O RINGS http://www.myjeepxj.com/cherokee-rep...filter-adapter And a link with torx.. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/oi...o-ring-127359/ Btw, use BLACK O rings, (not blue, or green)
Also, in my dad's day, a used car dealer might change a rear main seal to get it to stop long enough to sell the car. Bearing wear could actually let the crank move over (down), enough to not meet the (worn) seal lip.
Anyway, that front tube off the Valve cover needs to be free to vent. If goo in blow-by has plugged up some little aftermarket filter, crankcase pressure will make it **** from everywhere, including the rear main.
OIL FILTER ADAPRER O RINGS http://www.myjeepxj.com/cherokee-rep...filter-adapter And a link with torx.. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/oi...o-ring-127359/ Btw, use BLACK O rings, (not blue, or green)
Also, in my dad's day, a used car dealer might change a rear main seal to get it to stop long enough to sell the car. Bearing wear could actually let the crank move over (down), enough to not meet the (worn) seal lip.
Anyway, that front tube off the Valve cover needs to be free to vent. If goo in blow-by has plugged up some little aftermarket filter, crankcase pressure will make it **** from everywhere, including the rear main.
Last edited by DFlintstone; Mar 5, 2014 at 12:09 AM.
Seasoned Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
From: Sucka Free East Bay Cali
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Why would a predatory dealer go through the trouble? Much easier to pump the thing full o Lucas, honey oil, stop leak, and other crap. One guy would put rice in the radiator to make it stop leaking. Brake fluid in the tranny to stop the slippin.


