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Ridiculous 2 piece trans pan tube stuck

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Old Jul 31, 2016 | 08:21 PM
  #1  
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Default Ridiculous 2 piece trans pan tube stuck

So yeah, I've read all the threads her and elsewhere on this, NOTHING works. This is absurd, I cranked down a hose clamp on the upper portion of the tube just above the break between parts and beat the **** out of it. Detached it in the engine bay of course so it would give. Nothing. How does what is supposedly just an Oring holding these together withstand a 10 minute hammer bashing when I was scared I was about to break something metal? Disconnecting the tube mounting bracket in the bay and raking that through to drop the pan is not how I wanna do this. I want the pan OFF and mobile, I'm about to take a hacksaw to it but I don't wanna do that either. Can I squirt something into the joined pieces to just dissolve that O ring away or what are my other options here? This is ridiculous. Thanks.
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Old Jul 31, 2016 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by f@gfordacrag
So yeah, I've read all the threads her and elsewhere on this, NOTHING works. This is absurd, I cranked down a hose clamp on the upper portion of the tube just above the break between parts and beat the **** out of it. Detached it in the engine bay of course so it would give. Nothing. How does what is supposedly just an Oring holding these together withstand a 10 minute hammer bashing when I was scared I was about to break something metal? Disconnecting the tube mounting bracket in the bay and raking that through to drop the pan is not how I wanna do this. I want the pan OFF and mobile, I'm about to take a hacksaw to it but I don't wanna do that either. Can I squirt something into the joined pieces to just dissolve that O ring away or what are my other options here? This is ridiculous. Thanks.
Heat is your friend.
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Old Jul 31, 2016 | 08:47 PM
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Unbolt the tube from the bell and bend the bracket just enough to clear the bell, then try to fish the entire tube and pan out in one shot from underneath. If that doesnt work than cutting the tube may be it. Or you could try heating it up to break the oring loose. You will need a new oring doing that. I have no idea what size.
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Old Jul 31, 2016 | 10:55 PM
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Why are you taking it apart? Pan gasket leaking?
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by f@gfordacrag
So yeah, I've read all the threads her and elsewhere on this, NOTHING works. This is absurd, I cranked down a hose clamp on the upper portion of the tube just above the break between parts and beat the **** out of it. Detached it in the engine bay of course so it would give. Nothing. How does what is supposedly just an Oring holding these together withstand a 10 minute hammer bashing when I was scared I was about to break something metal? Disconnecting the tube mounting bracket in the bay and raking that through to drop the pan is not how I wanna do this. I want the pan OFF and mobile, I'm about to take a hacksaw to it but I don't wanna do that either. Can I squirt something into the joined pieces to just dissolve that O ring away or what are my other options here? This is ridiculous. Thanks.
Originally Posted by Martlor13
Heat is your friend.

Quick hit with heat should work. Also maybe try squirting some brake cleaner in there. Have used brake cleaner to squeeze fittings into rubber hose that were a little to big for the hose. When you soak it good it softens the rubber and lets you force the fitting in easier. You have to be quick cause it evaporates quick. Maybe that trick will soften up the O-Ring and work here. Getting the tranny pan with the dipstick attached out from the bottom, with the Jeep on the ground, did not work the one time I tried.
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 07:08 AM
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I just went through this last week, I was able to get the pan down with the entire tube attached but it was a messy pain in the a$$. Once it was out I placed the pan on the ground and stood on it then pulled and twisted until it finally separated.
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 07:54 AM
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The only time I remove a pan is if the gasket is leaking.

That's fairly rare.

If the OP is doing this to change the "filter" unnecessarily, there's really some fuel to add to the frustration fire.
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Old Aug 1, 2016 | 09:28 AM
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Agreed on eliminating the frustration if you are trying to drop the pan to replace the filter. I fell for that one and then realized my mistake. The "filter" is a mesh screen and not like other transmission filters I have needed to change.
as far as getting the tube off. I disconnected it from the block and then twisted and pulled from above. It took quite a bit, but finally broke free. I have to believe some heat would help. It really is just a little oring in there. Unless something else is wrong and a tube is crimped/bent, the oring will let go. I remember it took me quite a while before it finally budged. I was very close to cutting it and then just kept at it.
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Why are you taking it apart? Pan gasket leaking?
I wanted to change the filter and get some extra fluid out in the process. I've done everything, put some gas in there to eat junk up, applied heat, twisting the pan, unbolting the tube from the bell, hammered an attached hose clamp... the damn exhaust is in the way so there's no way to drag it down further. I swear to god it is twisting when I move the pan side to side, it is but it won't let go! I don't know how I would cut the tubing with these angles to work with. The exhaust bolts there connecting are UGLY, I don't even wanna mess with them, they will not take any wrenching on I guarantee. I'm at a loss, I've been screwing with this for 3 days now and even took today off work to try to finish this job. I can't drive it to a shop now either. I'm about to put an ad on Craigslist for the job on site for Christ's sake.
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 03:45 PM
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Sorry to say it, but your quest for changing the screen unnecessarily and getting a little more fluid out was a colossal waste of time.

You own one of the best and simplest transmissions to service and you went overboard for nothing. Shoulda done a simple drain and fill. Or two......
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
You own one of the best and simplest transmissions to service and you went overboard for nothing. Shoulda done a simple drain and fill. Or two......
Yeah I'm gonna have to go ahead and completely disagree with that statement. If it were so simple to service this thread wouldn't exist. I don't think wanting to change your trans filter is going overboard at all, whether it is unnecessary on these or not it is preventative maintenance made impossible by a moronic design feature. By simply making the upper piece the female in this conundrum this might never happen, instead of the opposite and catching all moisture and junk like a funnel to rust shut town. Colossal waste of time I will COMPLETELY agree with though. While I'm at it, is there a way I can stay logged in here? I have to log in every time I leave and come back. I've looked in my user CP but can't find the option.

Last edited by f@gfordacrag; Aug 3, 2016 at 04:24 PM.
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by f@gfordacrag
Yeah I'm gonna have to go ahead and completely disagree with that statement. If it were so simple to service this thread wouldn't exist. I don't think wanting to change your trans filter is going overboard at all, whether it is unnecessary on these or not it is preventative maintenance made impossible by a moronic design feature. By simply making the upper piece the female in this conundrum this might never happen, instead of the opposite and catching all moisture and junk like a funnel to rust shut town.
OK. But even to just change the filter you don't need to take the tube off?
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Martlor13
OK. But even to just change the filter you don't need to take the tube off?
How would you get the pan clear to remove and replace the filter then? Much less apply a new gasket?
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 04:39 PM
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Factory recommended and proven to be effective service is to drain and fill every 30,000 miles for normal service and every 15,000 miles for severe service.....
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Factory recommended and proven to be effective service is to drain and fill every 30,000 miles for normal service and every 15,000 miles for severe service.....
Thanks for that info, I just bought the vehicle at 130K. First thing on to do list for a used is replace all fluids. Had I had any idea what a sh*t storm I was tempting I would never have done more than a drain and fill. I just figured something routine maintenance would be a walk in the park. Can anyone tell me how to stay logged in here?
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