I found this from a tech pdf file.

"when the engine is running, from idle to just short of WOT [Wide Open Throttle], the fuel pump gets power from the fuel pump relay, through the ballast resistor where the power is reduced to approx. 6 volts. And last, when the engine is at WOT, the fuel pump gets 12 volts from the oxygen heater relay, bypassing the ballast resistor."

I'm bypassing the BR but was wondering if my "6.5 volts running" was a sign of a low voltage problem somehow.
Since others are seeing 10 volts running.

 

I gotta say that sounds a little goofy. I don't recall ever seeing mine under 9 something. Was that in the FSM? (for 87-90?)

I DID find on my diagram there is an orange, (or gry) (it says), that tee's off of the o2 heater power wire. I can't trace it, it just goes to #9,#9,#9.

 

Well I get my hands on something & I read it. It was a compilation of some tech info re written by some Jeep tech guy. Supposedly for the renix Jeeps. Don't even remember the site. I just copied to my notepad.

Not that I believe everything I read. That's why i ask yall........lol

 

I suppose a guy could pull his (first), 02 heater relay and monitor fuel pump voltage, and compare that to WOT with it in! Not really high on my list at the moment. I DO keep a leg of wire from my engine compartment into my cab...for such things...I guess it would need a diode or yet another relay to keep the fuel pump power from running the 02 heater...

 

Monday I'm pulling the rail & after I re-seat the rail o rings I'm gonna switch her on & see if they are leaking.

746's are suppose to be here Tuesday. Hope it's an early Christmas.

 

I pulled the fuel rail off. Here are the injectors. The 746's are suppose to be here tomorrow. Looks like the clown that put these in used the same size o ring upper & lower. That's not right is it?

When I disconnected the fuel supply line there were 2 o rings with a hard plastic "spacer" in the middle. Never seen that before.

 

Here's what you need for the fuel line.

 

Looks to be a Bosch "one holer" is all I can say. Without a number starting with 280 I might be no help figuring it out. I'm leaning here myself. As far as O rings, I just examine them with good light and high magnification. Any "checking" being bent? Any gouges or flaws? Burnt/oxodised looking? I ended up with 12 that looked OK out of the 36 I had.

I just used what I had, they seem the same. BUT pretty tough to fit the uppers in the rail. I do recall someone finding softer rings for that. (or some such). I just ran what was there and what came with what I got.

Same for the fuel-line. At the JY some of those O rings seem to have fallen into my toolbox. I do think that's a common (Christler?) part. I think Napa has what you need. Really I'm not much help there.

I'm getten curious if the signal wire from ether your ECT, or IAC is shorting when it gets hot under there. (both could be checked unplugged on the "Jeep side" of the plug, (at HNS). Would be all over the coil if not for the crisp blue spark, it firing with spray, and other signs of being lean. If a coil falls into your lap,.....

 

I'm gonna be all over the HNS after I get the injectors swapped out. ( I'm cleaning the intake ports with a .410 barrel brush)

Getting 2 of those connectors from NAPA. Using all new o rings & soaking em clean fuel then lubing with PJ.

My plan is to test every sensor (AGAIN) on the hot & cold side of the problem. It's almost down to process of elimination at this point. Then look at ignition switch & stuff like that if it's still there after the pump & injector swap.

I'll be checking those 2 items you mentioned. Thanks.

 

Well......I don't know what to say. Other than........MY HNS IS GONE !!! It's rectified.

The used (new to me) 746 injectors didn't come in until today about 2 PM. I was as nervous as a dog passin a peach seed putting them in. It took me a few minutes of priming & starter fluid to finally get her to bust off & she ran smokey for a few minutes then cleared up. Once clear I set out & drove 31 miles & made 3 stops. At each stop I waited 7 to 15 minutes before trying to re-start. Fired right up every time. I drove her hard & fast back to the house & waited 10 full minutes. Started perfectly.

This HNS has been plaguing me for months.

I can't frickin believe it.........

 

AND THE CROWD CHEERS!...........

Glad you gotr'. Like I asked back in post #82, I'm still curious of the numbers on your injectors. Well done!

 

Well you have seen the picture. I'm holding one now & they have "FORD" embossed on em. The only numbers I see ..on 1 side is "E5TE-A3B" ....then on the other side is "852B"........by BOSCH

I think it stands for piece of sh**. he he..........

 

HA! Well, the thick plottens! I'll see what I can find.....THANKS! Guss you had thought they were Bosch, and there IS a Bosch that looks alike... Oh..Now I see the Bosch...

 

Great frickin' news.

 

I called PRECISIONINJECTORS & trying to get a refund. We'll see.......

Question...is there a retail place that sells BG44K ?

And what's the best way to burp a renix? I think I heard to park it "nose down" to get the air to the rear ........remove the temp sender plug & wait till nothing but coolant come out.