I think the injector number will start with 280. There likely will be ether a 155, or a 150 after that. The last three remain be seen.

I get over 10 Volts running. So you ARE lean....leave the resistor bypassed, at least to diagnose. Your heat shield IS there, in place?

Lower resistance to the control to the ECU from the IAT and ECT sensors will tell the ECU to shorten the injector pulse width. (more lean). I had an issue myself when it was hot. At least one of the wires between my lower sensors and the "injector harness" (including the ECT) , would ground. It took me about a year to find that short to ground when hot.

The coolant temp wire to the ECU might be TAN. If that grounded hot, maybe that could cause it to to be too lean.???

 

OK progress! Serously though, sheez! Well done! Honnestly I was giong to bring up the idea of testing the cat for back pressure. THAT might be ether over rich, or missing, sending unburnt fuel vapor down the pipe. (the cat's job is to burn unburnt fuel)

Sorry, I'm not much help....maybe the wrong injectors were installed?

 

Here's the new cat. It went in just like you see. I don't know if that's a shield around it or not.

 

I PM'd post #105 to Radi. I don't think the cat is the problem. It's job is to burn what didn't burn in the engine. Missing, could send it too much unburnt fuel....I wonder what injectors you put in there just before your problems started?

 

Right on. I think it's runnin rich & getting super hot in the cat. from un-burnt fuel.
I called the injector seller but they are closed cause of Good Friday.

Son of a Sea ****!!!

 

The numbers are printed on the injector.

 

I'll ****** one out tomorrow. Dang if I can find a # while they're installed.

Question. How "far off" can my dizzy be mounted & still operate? I ask because I'm reading & running rich & dumping excess fuel is likely a big reason for a super hot CAT. Mis-firing so fuel is dumped.
So I get my Haynes out & I'm reading & looking at pictures of the firing order & my dizzy is twisted about 90* from what the manual says. The plug wires are in the right sequence but the "mount' is nothing like Haynes.
Sorry if this is a "green" question but it is what it is.

btw........There is no situation that cannot be improved with a small but well-placed explosive.

 

The manual's and diagrams are wrong. #1 is at 5:00 viewed from the side.

 

Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap.

Install a ¾" wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post.

Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor.

Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw.

Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor.

If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block.

Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole.

Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position.
Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position.

Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal .

Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved.

Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections.

Revised 07/03/2012

 

Thanks DFlint. Settled that. I have learned the hard way to take Haynes with a block of salt.....lol

I found the old FPR. I'm gonna try it in the AM for elimination purposes.

 

More "testing" this morning. Fuel pressure cold & hot is 31. 39 unplugged. Cold it drops 16 psi in 30 minutes. Hot (op. temp) when I shut it off & check 15 minutes later it's risen to 40psi & holding. Tried to start. Started after 3 attempts but VERY ruff. FP goes back to 31psi upon starting.

Held the throttle open a little & it "cleared" after about 60 seconds. Still cool this AM so HNS wasn't full blown yet.

Battery voltage running cold & hot is 14+ volts.

Ballast resistor voltage COLD is 7.4 volts. It drops to just over 6 volts HOT. Does that say anything?

After my last shut down I waited 10 minutes & ran a very cold steady stream of water on the CPS for about 3 minutes. Recovery time from HNS was no quicker. So maybe that eliminates the new MOPAR CPS as faulty.

 

I'd leave that ballast resistor bypassed, at least for now. I think 6V might be too low. Really, it's OK to bypass it. Cruiser says it was added when people complained about a noisy pump.

Ha funny! When I had problems hot, (from bad wiring pictured in post #72), I had tried putting a cold pack on my coil! (same idea).

Yea, those injector numbers are a beach. Maybe with enough light and magnification.

And again, do you still have your heat shield installed? Again, in my photo in post #72 you can see it. It occurred to me if yours is missing, you might not know...you need one.

 

I'm gonna perm. bypass. Just checking the V difference hot to cold.

The #'s on my inj's are 852.........couldn't make out the rest. I had one injector that I could twist. The other 5 were tight. I made em all twist today. With the key in the ON position. Not a yank or anything, just a little twist from side to side. They weren't hard to "break" loose. So when I get to #4 it starts leaking like crazy. Guess I compromised the o ring.

My shield is on & no wires are close to it. I don't know if this means anything but my fuel rail is always cool to the touch. Even when I have HNS it's not HOT.


Ordered the BOSCH 746's today.

 

Just trien to cover all the bases. Maybe vapor lock if yours was missen. YES bypass the resistor to rule it out...but you just used up your fire extinguisher, might deal with that fuel leak ASAP! Your injectors might be fine, just wanted to know what they are. I DO like my 746's though!

Installed in the Jeep, it's the # on the side facing front.

 

Whenever I've checked a ballast resistor, it takes battery voltage and drops it to about 10 volts.