Re-man Bosch & they have been in there probably 500 miles.

 

There before and/or after this issue?

 

I don't remember the HNS before the injectors. This has been a slow re-build & I put the injectors & FR on the same day.

So we could be narrowing this down to them?

It was running pretty good before the injector replacement but she developed a leak from 3 of the old set & almost caught fire.

 

Rebuilts huh?

Could try running a can of BG 44K in a full tank of gas in case they've got some crud in them.

 

FR?///-FPR? (fuel pressure regulator?)

If my pressure were 11 pounds too high, (roughly a third), and I was rich and smelled gas, I'd suspect the regulator, (FPR). Occam's razor below.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Occams_razor

 

i read all of the above and didn't see a fuel filter mentioned...just sayin.

 

Fuel filter is brand new. And yes Dflintstone, I should say FPR.

I know lots of people bash the Haynes but if I'm reading it correctly with the symptoms I have they really lean towards the FPR. Maybe I got a bad one but it's from NAPA & I didn't "think" it would fail from heat.

But what do I know. That's why I'm here & asking questions. And you all have helped me learn a great deal. I never dreamed I would pull an engine & replace all the freeze plugs.......but I did.

 

Test the FPR again. New parts are crappola lots of times these days.

 

More testing today

I had FP on the rail @ 31 & 39 respectively. Cold engine. Shut off & according to a FSM I got my hands on, I'm suppose to shut it off & re-check in 30 minutes. A fall of 20psi or less is acceptable the FPR & pump check valve is operating properly. Mine went to zero in less than 10. Ain't looking good.

Next paragraph says "if you have HSN & your pressure check showed the psi dropping more than 20, re-start, idle & momentarily pinch off the return line.The pressure will rise to 95% so shut the engine down immediately. Note the reading. Allow it to sit for 30 minutes. Take another reading & compare it to the reading you 1st took when you shutdown.

If the FP has dropped 20psi or less replace the FPR. If the pressure has dropped considerably more than 20psi it's bleeding off past the check valve in the pump. Replace the pump.

Mine went to zero in less than 2 minutes.

Are you thinking what I am thinking? Did I read this right?

btw........after the "HNS" test, I reached inside & turned the ignition switch to ON. Checked the reading & it had jumped up to 31psi. Without cranking it. Cold engine. Is that normal?

thanks

 

Allot of us suffer from questionable check-valves in the pump. That shouldn't cause a problem with OPPERATION, but some resort to the "poor mans prime". That's turning the ign on, then off for a few seconds, a few times before cranking her up. Do you still have the other FPR? Just a thought....

I suppose cutting off the check valve option would leave the injectors, as well as the FPR. I did happen to test my old 703's recently. All good.

 

Gotta wonder if crud is involved, or something with the return line. THEN! if there is crud to get into the FPR...the injectors DO have a screen.......

 

I'm trying to learn a bit as I go. If I'm reading this FSM right & pressure is dropping that low, that quick, & I have HNS, it's the check-valve. There is a SPECIFIC section about HNS in the manual. I followed the direction exactly. Several times. The pressure drops like a rock.
I don't think I have the old FPR. I'm not gonna rush & buy a pump.
I called the place I got the re-man BOSCH inj. from & they said full replacement is no problem. They are suppose to be the best in the business so there's no problem getting a replacement.
But if the FSM is correct in this HNS test, I had rather not jump through another injector swap.
If I need a pump.........I'll get one. I'm just not positive.

 

Crud causing HNS? I'm just asking but why wouldn't junk affect it hot or cold?
I just ran 2 cans of seafoam & a tank of high-test chevron through her. Cleaned the throttle body till you could lick it.
In the back of my mind I'm thinking I may throw a new temp sensor on there tomorrow after I move the MAT to the airbox.

 

OK...If it doesn't start when the pressure is up, low pressure probably is not your problem. If the pressure dropped because the injectors leaked it could be flooded. Not sayen that's likely, but I did suspect a couple of my stock leaked and caused a slower start, and a little missing for a second.

 

You mean IAT? (intake air temp), yea, mine was full of crud. Everybody should check/clean theirs.

What I mean by crud, wondering why on one hand the pressure plummets, and on another it holds forever at 50#. Was thinking crud in the RPR might explain that.