I’m struggling to get the two reverts torx bolts out. Access is a bit tricky. Any tricks? 96 XJ automatic 4.0.

 

Hopefully those are the first two bolts you try and remove, under less load if the other bolts are still installed. if you remove the manifolds and the head you have more access boltheads. you can reinstall with same size grade 8 hex bolts when you remount

 

Stack a bunch of extensions with a wobble or universal on the end. If the universal is too "floppy", wrap a turn of electrical tape around the joint.

If you need more room, you can remove the transmission support brace and lower the back down to tilt the engine a bit (not a lot, keep the trans/tc supported).

 

aye!! This is the way. Thank you !

 

Most people change those to regular hex head bolts when they replace them. Just a thought.

 

Its essential not to leave them to last.

If you did, reinstall all the other bolts very tight

Those Female Torx bolts have blue loctite, so its also a very good idea to heat them with a butane torch ( a few times if needed

Drop the trans down as low as you can

Do not use a 12 point socket, you should have an E12 Female Torx socket

If you do all the above, they will come out easy. Omit any of those steps and you will be cursing.

I use my Milwaukee Impact driver

 

thank you!!

 

If removing the engine, I like to lift it up with the cherry picker, remove motor mounts and then drop it back down. This will allow you to drop it down lower than if its on the mounts and gives you plenty of room to get to the bolts from the top. If you are removing the trans, like others said, got to remove the crossmember and use some extension to get up there.

 

Success!

I was struggling with the same problem this weekend under my '95 Cherokee. A lot of good advice on the subject so I thought I would share what worked for me.

I was about to try heating them up a little, or maybe buying the E12 wrench and trying from the top. I am just changing out my clutch, so the idea of removing the head and everything in that neighborhood, didn't appeal to me. So I jacked up the Jeep another 8" or so to create more room underneath. The transmission was on a transmission stand I bought at Harbor Freight for 125$ That created more room and better access. That all made the transmission point downward a little more.

I tried piling a bunch of 3/8" extensions on a long handled socket handle with the E12 socket and a wobble. As soon as I applied the force it would jump off the bolt head. I tried removing the wobble, same thing. I think there was too much flex in all those connections. Plus the torx bolt head was a little oily. So I cleaned the bolt heads with a wire brush and some brake cleaner.

Then I broke out my trusty SK 1/2" socket handle and 2 extensions, a 1/2 to 3/8 converter and the E12 socket. Got that all situated in the tunnel and used a piece of jack handle as a breaker. And it popped free.

I was about to use the heat method, which I've used in the past. A little heat and a little Kroil or PB Blaster alternatively. But with that flange cap bolt head I don't know how much penetrating oil would have made it in there.

Next up I was going to try an impact tool. I was afraid of breaking the bolt off in the hole or rounding that thing off. There is just not much room in there to work.

Then like it says in the earlier posts, replacement bolts with a regular hex head were easy to find at the hardware store.

If you run into this problem, Don't Give Up!

One of those pesky E12 bolts.