Pretty sure I need to replace my motor mounts. 193k miles on stock ones, and I have some clunking noises when starting up and hitting bumps. Even if they are 'fine' I'd probably feel a lot better putting newer / better mounts on just due to the vehicle age.

My question is this: how hard is this for a newb? Some people say this is an easy job, but the bleepinjeep video of this, made it look like an absolute nightmare. Not a big guy, and I'd be doing it alone.

Any tips or advice? If my transmission mount is bad should I do that first? What are some pitfalls that can be avoided with this job?

Thanks in advance.

 

They can be a PITA, especially lining up the bolt holes on the new mounts. There are a ton of posts on installing them, and I'd suggest a good search.

 

I replaced mine a couple weeks ago. I think it helped that I had read so many horror stories because it didn't really seem all that difficult. The passenger side is the most challenging because the oil filter adapter is in the way of the bolt and must be removed in order to slide the motor mount bolt out. It's a perfect opportunity to replace the o-rings in your filter adapter which are likely flat, hard as a rock and leaking profusely (set available from O'Reilly's or Auto Zone for $7 or so). The driver's side is much easier but you still have to remove the air intake box for easy access... good time to replace that filter!

I didn't replace my trans mount which seems to still be in reasonable condition. Here are some before and afters...

 

The transmission mount isn't that hard to change. The key is to avoid
breaking off the bolts that hold the crossmember to the frame rails.

The tranny mount can deteriorate fast if the transmission has leaked oil
onto it for a period of time. If you replace it, people have complained about
some aftermarket mounts not fitting right, or sitting too low. A Mopar
mount could cost under $50.
Example for a 98 XJ : https://www.stevewhiteparts.com/oem-...w2LWdhcw%3D%3D

 

I would get a set of Omix or Crown motor mounts (or OEM Mopar) and an OEM transmission mount. All the aftermarket ones are going to introduce vibration at idle and unless you are hard on the gas or offroad a lot, stock mounts will last another 100k miles or more

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/replaced-trans-motor-mounts-exhaust-hitting-crossmember-236085/


Edit:
Overall it is pretty easy. You need a good floor jack, a big pry bar and a big piece of wood so you can jack up the motor by the oil pan. Then you just keep messing with the positioning till one side bolts up, then the other. Took me about 3 hours by my self. Would have been so much easier with 2 people

 

Take a look at your engine pipe as it passes over the cross member. The pipe was hitting it due to a broken exhaust bracket

 

Denver/CO???

Come up to Westminster and help me make this a 1-2 hour job! lol

Pizza and beer! I'm serious! I'll trade work too! Help me for 1-2 hours, I'll help you for 1-2 hours.

 

I disagree. The rubber ones from rustys off road are great. No noticeable vibes at idle or highway cruise. Holds the engine tight even with added power. The stock design should not be used. .02

 

the napa drivetech are excellent as well

 

I have done them on two Jeeps in the past month, it is a fairly easy job. Put a jack and a block of wood under the front of the oil pan and do one side at a time.

 

thats how I did two XJ as well, trans mounts as well, seem to remember needing decent tools, maybe that was on another vehicle, the LH mount always is worse

 

As you can see from the photos, I opted for the Rusty's Off-road mounts. Increased vibrations seem to have subsided after the new mounts broke in. I can't compare them to stock since my stock mounts had no rubber left so they weren't really transmitting... anything.

 

I am in FL for another 6 months at least

Otherwise I totally would. Its pretty easy to be honest, the second time I did mine it only took me 2 hours including set-up and clean-up.
Try Frontrange 4x4 - I have never asked for help on there but they are a super friendly bunch of guys!

EDIT:
Do the trans mount first because IIRC you should have the trans mount "loose" before removing and installing the motor mounts.
Then do one side at a time, I used a breaker bar and ratchet straps to help align everything, and a second jack and long 2x4 to help "rotate" the engine which I seemed to need.

Then I kept everything finger tight and started it up, revved the **** out of it a few times and tightened all the bolts down. Don't tighten the motor mount through-bolts too much because it will transmit more vibration and is not necessary.

 

Yeah, the stock design sucks. Good to know about the Rustys rubber mounts! I heard the BrownDog rubber mounts DO increase vibration by a noticeable amount so I assumed any of the beefier mounts were.

I have SFR "super-soft" poly mounts and they definitely increased vibrations, but nothing intolerable and above idle it completely smooths out (inline-6 an all)