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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Rich3 - FourbyFour stated he did the "no remove head" trick on his 1996 6 Cyl. Yes the video was a 4 cyl, but FourbyFour stated he did this with his 6 cyl. So is it possible or not? :-)
Sorry to dredge up an old thread but does this work?
Will not work on 4.0. Just measured a 88 and 98 heads both had hole size of around .545. The lifter size is .905. Head has to come off to change lifters.
I was reading this thread while searching for info on doing a cam and lifter swap on an ‘05 4.0 in a Wrangler so I joined. I haven’t attempted it yet, but due to the pushrod holes in the head being too small to lift the lifter through the top, I think they could come out of the bottom by removing the oil pan, which is way easier than removing the head. Behind the cam gear is a plug that would allow a rod to be inserted to hold the lifter up. With a small hook reaching from the top you should be able to lift the front lifter just high enough to let a rod push under it. Continue one lifter at a time until the rod is inserted the full length of the block and all lifters are up. Then you can remove the camshaft. Then as you pull the rod out, the lifters can fall out the bottom. Then install the front lifter from the bottom as you push the dowl rod in to hold it in place and continue all the way to the back lifter. Install the new cam and pull the rod back out allowing the lifters to fall back onto the cam. Has anyone tried this and knows that it wouldn’t work? Just asking before I attempt mine.
Worked for me a long time ago then I found this post had been made by someone else. You can change the cam and lifters without removing the head but the effort is about the same as removing the head and won't go as fast as you think.
I'm doing an in-chassis refresh on my 93 XJ now doing this same thing to preserve the integrity of the head gasket after I checked the compression numbers and found they were good. I will be rolling in new main bearings and installing new con-rod bearings too. New oil pump, cam, lifters and timing set. Since I needed to rebuild the front suspension anyway I just removed the Dana 30 and got it out of the way. Removed starter, oil pan, oil pump and pickup. The A/C compressor was unbolted and moved out of the way whilst still connected with R-12 in it. Alt and bracket were removed too. Drained coolant system, removed radiator then lifted and rotated the A/C condensor out of the way so as not to disconnect a perfectly working R-12 system. Removed harmonic balancer to get timing cover off. Remove timing cover and timing set. Remove oil galley plug with 5/16" square driver. I ground down a 3/8 drive extension.
Once the plug is out you can assume you'll need to lift the lifters with a magnet or the lifter removal tool. Lift the first lifter and push in a 5/16" diameter, 3 foot long dowel into the gallery until it stops. Pull back a quarter of an inch as you made contact with the next one. Release the lifter and let it rest on the dowel. Do this for the rest of the lifters.
Pull the cam out being very careful not to score or nick the bearing surfaces. You can put the oil pan back on with two bolts, pull the dowel out slowly and listen for each lifter to drop into the pan. If you don't hear one drop, stop and check down the push rod hole to see why. Once all twelve are out, you're golden.
Reinstallation: Lube up a lifter with assembly lube. Install the first one in bore 1 very carefully. Too far and it will flop over inside and you'll spend a good amount of time fishing back into the bore. Don't ask me how I know. Insert the lifter just high enough to get the dowel to support it. Do the same for the other eleven pushing the dowel in just enough to support the next lifter. Once all are in, drop the push rods in on top of the lifters just like in the JeepForum's post. Install camshaft after putting on assembly lube or lube it as you insert it. Sometimes easier to keep a grip on the end until the last.
Reinstall the oil galley plug with some thread sealant. Carefully install timing set. If the cam isn't lined up, bolt the cam sprocket onto the camshaft finger tight. That is the only time you should move the cam. The sprocket helps to keep the cam centered on the bearings. Once the dots on the crankshaft and cam sprockets line up, remove the sprockets and install the timing set.
Now you can pull the dowel out slowly and make sure each lifter drops into place.
After Chrysler took over AMC, there was clamouring from the public about getting a better six cylinder engine for the Cherokee. The GM V6 was, at best, anemic and heavy. There was a Chrysler engineer or manager that hated AMC so much he specified the AMC 258 would never be used in Chrysler's version of the XJ. So the 4.0L was created. Part of the result was a good engine that you couldn't service the lifters with the head installed. The then-new thin-casting methods used to cast heads back then were to reduce weight but required more coolant passages to keep the engine temps controlled. This in turn did not allow for a push rod hole larger enough to allow the .905" diameter lifter to pass through. The holes are too large to be truly an integrated push rod guide and too small to service the lifters. Some have tried to bore out the holes with poor results. I haven't heard of anyone successful in doing this that didn't suffer stress cracking and trashing the head. If only the old style lifter access plates on the sides were designed into the 4.0L then I believe this would have been the crown jewel of engines for the Jeep brand. However, with over 2.5 million 4.0L engines built, parts aren't hard to find. Just the process of servicing them may be a bit of trouble at times.
Last edited by RadioAngler; 06-17-2018 at 09:48 AM.
Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
This is just flat out stupid. It's FAR more work than just pulling the head.
As for preserving the integrity of the head gasket, well, that's stupid too. You'll be preserving the "integrity" of an old head gasket that might be on the verge of failing, instead of replacing it with a new one. Same for the exhaust/intake manifold gasket.
I'm constantly amazed at how creative people can be and how much hard work they are willing to do just to avoid doing something the right way.
Last edited by BlueRidgeMark; 06-17-2018 at 03:45 PM.
BlueRidgeMark - " As for preserving the integrity of the head gasket, well, that's stupid too. You'll be preserving the "integrity" of an old head gasket that might be on the verge of failing..."
You May be right. Especially if you haven't done this kind of work for as long as I have. However the head gasket hasn't failed yet thus it isn't in need of replacement. Since I've been building engines since 1981, I'm comfortable with it. To each their own stupidity. I pity those who think there's only one way of doing something for it to be the "right way". The real service manual from Jeep isn't the only way of getting things done.
However the head gasket hasn't failed yet thus it isn't in need of replacement. Since I've been building engines since 1981, I'm comfortable with it. To each their own stupidity.
Originally Posted by RadioAngler
I will be rolling in new main bearings and installing new con-rod bearings too. New oil pump, cam, lifters and timing set.
I don't understand that level of thinking. I am sure that the oil pump, cam and lifters didn't fail yet those are being replaced.
I've had more head gaskets fail after 150k than any other engine part, easily 10:1 handsdown.
A head gasket with over 150k will fail, it's just a matter of time. Usually corrosion between cylinders or cylinder to water jacket or water jacket to outside. And usually have near normal compression testing as they only leak when at operating temp and engine under load/stress.
Near normal compression tests is giving you false sense of security about your head gasket.
Good luck with your rebuild, this time and next time.
The head has to come off to replace the lifters on a 4.0L. Replace the head gasket. Once theyre torqued down, thats it. Its been compressed and should never be reused. Inspect the lifters for pitting or any other defects as they could affect the cam. But im no engine builder, so what do i know.
After Chrysler took over AMC, there was clamouring from the public about getting a better six cylinder engine for the Cherokee. The GM V6 was, at best, anemic and heavy. There was a Chrysler engineer or manager that hated AMC so much he specified the AMC 258 would never be used in Chrysler's version of the XJ. So the 4.0L was created.
The 4.0L was developed by AMC before Chrysler bought them in 1987, and was one of 4 AMC designs that was kept in production by Chrysler at that time. Whatever Chrysler engineer you're talking about had nothing to do with the creation of the 4.0L.
10-07-2016, 07:26 PM
Insert the lifter just high enough to get the dowel to support it. Do the same for the other eleven pushing the dowel in just enough to support the next lifter. Once all are in, drop the push rods in on top of the lifters just like in the JeepForum's post. Install camshaft after putting on assembly lube or lube it as you insert it. Sometimes easier to keep a grip on the end until the last.
