Jpwright90

About to replace cps sensor, any thing special that need to know other than taking off and putting new one on?

macgyver35

The CPS is one of those parts that ranges anywhere from "only took me 10 minutes" to "I fought the dang thing for hours". I don't know why that is. I've grown up under the hoods of cars, and I know what I'm doing, but changing mine was a royal PITA.

I have big Popeye arms and bear paws for hands, so unlike some, I couldn't get my arms up close, and I had to use extensions. I also had to take out the bolts on the cross-member, support it with a jack, and lower it down some to get some clearance.

The one universal piece of advice I can give, that will be backed up by most members here, is DO NOT replace it with anything other than the Mopar part. This forum is littered with horror stories about aftermarket CPS (and other sensors) not working correctly, and causing a lot of wasted hours and/or leaving people stranded. It seems that many don't work right straight out of the box, and others work for a week or three and then fail, usually while in the middle of nowhere.

I myself had that experience when trying to use a Napa CPS. I spent hours getting it installed and afterward the Jeep ran like it only had three cylinders. I had to take it back out. I put the Mopar unit in and it purred like a kitten. That was 3.5 years ago and it's still just fine. I only wish I'd have spent the additional $20 for the Mopar part in the first place. It would have saved me half a day of additional work and frustration.

BTW, the same "Mopar" only advice can be applied to camshaft position sensors, throttle positions sensors, etc. I'll use aftermarket for things like oil pressure and temp sensors, but any kind of chemical (O2) or "hall" sensors, I stick to Mopar originals.

firehawk618

macgyver35 put it well but here's my take on aftermarket parts.

If the part isn't very hard to change then why not use an aftermarket if the price is that much different.

If it's a real nightmare or super critical and the OEM one has proven to be good for a long time then I'll go that route.

Sometimes OEM parts are known to be crap, and in that case sometimes aftermarket ones are actually IMPROVED versions.....

You see where I'm going with that.

macgyver35

Agreed. I do have a ton of aftermarket parts on my XJ. When I bought it it needed a new motor, so I spent about $1100 in ancillary parts from Rock Auto in the process of getting it road worthy again. Mounts, gaskets, bushings, etc. all mostly aftermarket, and have worked just fine.

I was just making the point that I and many others have had unusually high bad luck with certain highly sensitive critical engine management sensors (particularly the CPS) when trying to use aftermarket versions. If I'm about to replace a part that could do very expensive and/or permanent damage to or grenade my engine or trans, and I've heard many others have had bad luck with a certain type of part, I think the few extra dollars can be a real frustration saver in the long run.

DFlintstone

Yours may not have 11mm/, or 7/16 hex screws.

Change a CPS. A jack-stand under the left frame might be in your way. BACKING the front onto ramps is an option. Sometimes when I lift a vehicle, I see if I can push it off it's “lift” before I go underneath. You lay on your back with your feet out under the passenger side. With your LEFT hand you can reach up past the front drive-line to hold the CPS. (if your forearm is smaller than a quart mason jar)(if not maybe pull the drive-line). You want 11mm. or 7/16 socket, to 3 inch extension, to swivel,> then 18 to 24 inches of extension to your 3/8 ratchet in your RIGHT hand down by the tranny cross member. If there is a plastic deal there, can it. DON'T drop a bolt in there! (just don't!!!). When you are starting out, if you tie a long string, 5ive feet, to the old plug, you can then use that to haul the new one back up.
If your wires go through a metal band secured by an engine to bell housing bolt, cut them. To finish, zip tie, or make darn sure the wires won't rub/chafe or burn on anything. The second one is a relative piece if cake! (½ hr job!)

jld66

be careful not to break the bolts. had a heck of a time with mine. had to use heat on the bottom. spent a hour on the darn thing.

93_xjcherokee

Took me 15 minutes and I used a cheap eBay one. Ran it for over a year with zero issues. I guess Cheap ones are hit and miss.

67 GMC

Just asking-Where are you getting MOPAR crankshaft position sensors? MOPAR.COM doesn't list vehicles earlier than 2001. MOPARONLINEPARTS.com only goes to 1995.
Are you driving to a Chrysler dealer or is there another online place for Renix era CPS?


I've put in three now and can't get nearly the AC voltage that it should be putting out. 0.3 VAC max.


OOPS-Just realized-the OP has a 2001. Maybe my question is irrelevant to him.