BimmerJeeper

I finally have the courage to attempt the headlight upgrade.
When I first considered it, I could not unscrew 3 of the headlight screws b/c they were rusted solid (like every other bolt on the car, it turned out), so I bailed on ordering parts.
It was a perfect foreshadowing of just how challenging the XJ is for even the most basic jobs.

Now, a year later, I think I have the tools and understanding to destroy the screw head with either a MAPP torch or dremel or flush cutter
(Gotta love all the tools owning a Jeep will make you buy!!) and then use vice grips to remove the rest.

Even if I can not get the screws off, I will pay my mechanic to install this upgrade b/c the lights are really that bad, and winter means a lot more using of my XJ
So, I am going to assume I will remove the headlight screws come hell or high water.

So, this is where I left off: The $25 Putco harness was slammed on the forums as total junk garbage here. Crap relays.
If I could get relays for free, just how hard is it to splice in new relays?
Keep in mind, I don't even know what relays do or what they look like.
I do have a solder gun and wire cutters, etc.
Is there a video or write-up for those here who aren't pro electricians?
If there are actually pictures and directions on HOW to splice relays, I am willing to try and learn
I don't mind learning how to splice relays, but only if there are actual directions of what to do.
If there are no directions, this is not an option, I guess....


So, option #1 is get and get relays from a JY and learn how to splice them in.

Option #2 is to install the stock Putco, as is, and ignore the "pure junk" criticism as forum hype.

Option #3 is to get the $80 RJM harness with good relays.
Everyone said these are very good.
http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/prod...dlight-harness


What do you think? Which option?


Will both harnesses work with the headlights below? Which one is better?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/330897426583
http://www.quadratec.com/products/97017_1600.htm


I addition to the harness and headlight, I need the actual H4 bulbs, right?
Where can I get cheap H4's? Ebay?



Relays

DIY
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f59/my-h4-upgrade-114440/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/pu...nstall-164659/

RTorrez1

I installed the Putco harness on my 98 and never had a problem with the relays. If you do they relays are plug in and no splicing is needed. I do know that many have said that they have had problems with the relays but not every one does.

prcherokee

I use these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/200mm-H6054-H4-EURO-CONVERSION-HEADLIGHTS-KIT-/330897426583?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0b060897&vxp=mtrand build my the harness using volvo fan relay.

RTorrez1

double post

BimmerJeeper

So, if the relay fails, it's just plug and play like a regular fuse?
Part #39797-SE0-004

dmill89

I've had the Putco for over a year with no issues. I bought spare relays and tossed them in the center console after hearing all the "horror stories" but haven't used them yet. My harness still has the relays it came with and they work just fine. I believe the trick is to make sure the connectors on the relays are facing down ("bolt-eyes" facing up) and making sure to pack the connectors with plenty of dielectric grease. The issue with the relays appears to be that they aren't really waterproof (despite claiming to be so) and if installed upside down water will get in and water can also splash up and get in if the connector isn't greased (though from what I've heard making sure the connectors on the relays point down solves most of the issues but dielectric grease is cheap insurance).

You can use Honda (Matsu****a) relays (Honda P/N: 39797-SE0-004) with the Putco harness to eliminate any potential issues.

Also make sure the grounds are good (I just spliced in wire to the grounds and ran it back to the battery to fender ground rather than relying on chassis grounds).

Splicing in standard "Bosch-style" mechanical relays isn't that difficult but if you're going to do that you might as well just buy some H4 connectors, fuse holders, relay holders, lugs and 12ga. wire and making your own harness which wouldn't be much more work.

There are also some H4 harnesses on e-bay that already come with "Bosch-style" mechanical relays for about the same price as the Putco if you want to go that route (if I knew these existed when I bought my Putco I may have gone with one of these instead just for the ease of finding replacement relays). CERAMIC H4 7" HEADLIGHT 2 HEADLAMP LIGHT BULB SOCKET PLUG RELAY WIRING HARNESS

dmill89

Yes there is a socket they plug into (the harness actually ships with the relays separate in the package, not plugged in), however the relay is not a fuse, the Putco harness comes with no fuse and instead uses "Fusable-links" (thinner sections of wire designed to melt if overloaded). Most people splice a fuse-holder (or two) into the Putco harness for added safety.

RTorrez1

It is just a plug in.
BTW, I installed my Putco harness over 2 years ago and still using the same relays.

carbuff

The above ebay harness is the one I used a few weeks ago. The relays are real mechanical relays, the wire gauge is fairly thick, and the bulb sockets are quite substantial as well. Also, it comes with an inline fuse for the positive feed. It is also plenty long. Some people had stated that the putco harness barely made it from side to side. The ebay harness has plenty of wire, too long if anything. I also have the autopal euro h4 housings with the bulbs that were included with them. It works great. Occasionally, I have to flick the highbeams to get the lights to turn off but that is a problem inherent to the stock fog light circuit. I just need to clip and ground a wire to solve this. It has nothing to do with which harness you select. I originally had the silverstar sealed beams and they brightened up nicely with just the harness install. I too had a problem with one of my headlight ring screws being rusted tight. I ended up just bending the ring up untill I could fit the new bulb in.

BimmerJeeper

Thanks for the info.

I'm going to go with the Ebay harness for $35. Seems a nice middle ground from $25 Putco and $80 RJM.
I'm also going to get the Autopal with 2 bulbs from Ebay for $42.

Total about $80. Let's see if I can get those 4 headlight screws off!

salad

They are cheap, but I think most of the problems people have with the relays are bad grounds. I made sure my grounds were damn good, cleaned paint off of the radiator support and used those screws on the ring terminals. Pass. side also has a cable to the negative battery terminal. I read 0.1 ohms from the ground pin in the driver's side socket to the actual negative battery post. Which is the same my multimeter reads when the two probes are touched, so I'm happy.

I think a lot of folks dont clean the paint off.

BimmerJeeper

Can you summarize the test you described with your MM ?
I've used my MM twice. A continuity test and a voltage test.
Are you talking about a resistance test?
Can you walk me through how to do your test?
It will be a nice opportunity to use my MM again.

BimmerJeeper

Wait, the Ebay listing says the harness is NOT compatible with a '98 XJ Sport.
Can anyone confirm?

salad

Yep resistance test. For most models set it to 0-100 ohms range. Just touch between any two points to measure the resistance. The lower the better. For checking resistance through a conductor you don't need to worry about positive vs negative terminals on your meeter.

salad

This?
That's the one we all run.