Quick question.

I'm planning on doing new u-joints in my front axle. As far as I know the hubs are original (203K), but they seem fine.

Is it a good idea to replace the hub assemblies while I've got them off anyway, or is this a wait for them to need it kind of deal? I'm hesitant because of cost (obviously) and of the unknown quality of current replacements. I've already had them off when I did my ball joints, so I'm not worried about the bolt heads rounding or any of the other horror stories I've read about.

What do you think?

If they're not broke, don't fix them.

If you're worried about it however, you can certainly put a new quality set on while you're in there and hold on to the old parts as a backup.

One common thing that kills hub bearings is improper torque on the axle nut. Spec says 175ft/lbs, so torque it to 175. If your torque wrench only goes up to 150 ft/lbs and you're uncomfortable with torquing by "feel", you can always grab a beefier torque wrench from your local parts retailer as a loaner tool.

Really it's up to you. If you've got money to throw around and are worried the current hubs are on the verge of failure - replace them. If you're experienced in removing the hub and have taken the proper steps to facilitate future removal (like some anti-seize on the hub/knuckle mating surface) and/or don't want to drop $150+ on parts that you don't NEED - just reinstall the old ones.

If it were me, I'd be reinstalling the old ones.

have heard new ones can be short-lived compared to the originals

Agreed. It's not that bad a job, so wait until it's needed.

once ya get in there you'll be able to give em a good look, if there good leave them be. I've always prescribed to the saying if'n it ain't broke, don't fix it. most of the original parts will outlast any of the newer stuff on the shelves, especially the real cheap ones.

Sounds good to me, I'll plan on leaving them alone.

Check them after you remove them. My front hubs on my 200 XJ didn't show any looseness or wobble, but when I had them off, I spun them by hand and they growled a little like there was no grease in them. They felt a little "scratchy" if you know what I mean. I replaced them with Timken. I started to replace the u-joints is why I had it apart. 145K miles.

The stock units can last a very long time. I wouldn't replace it till you knew they were bad. New even high quality ones don't seem to have the longevity of the originals.

Timken may not be the go to brand anymore. IT sounds like they have farmed out the unit bearing over seas with reports of Timken unit bearings having "made in china" stamped on the bearings and whatnot.

It may be possible to find a Mopar replacement part. However at the going rate, you don't want to buy one unless you REALLY need it.

I know Timken and Moog both had problems with bogus knockoffs being made in India or Hong Kong and shipped in actual lookalike factory cartons, but that was a while ago. They both have lifetime warrantys now.

The Jeep Talk show did an interview with a Timken rep and they alluded to the unit hub no longer being made i the US factor . They kept reverting back to talking about the rear axleshaft bearing.

Half the battle of replacing hubs, is getting the old ones unstuck. I'd just clean things up and use anti-seize when reinstalling the originals, so if/when they actually do go bad, the job isn't that bad.

Someone told me something about an easy way to remove a hub from the knuckle by using longer bolts and using the power steering to pressure the bolts against the axle housing. Anybody have a clue as to how that's done?

I thought I saw something about putting a socket extension, thinking a 3" one, and turning the wheel.

When I replaced my ball joints I was forced to use this method to remove the hubs. Unfortunately, I had beaten the original driver side hub to pieces with a hammer before I got smart and therefore replaced them with MOOG hubs which I am very happy about.

I went with MOOG brand simply because two were in stock locally and I needed them quickly due to my excessive use of the hammer.

Once I had the hub bolts out completely I ran one bolt in just a few threads and used two short wobble extensions and the 13mm socket to create a wedge between the frame and bolt. Then I just turned the wheel and used the pressure of the steering system to push the hub slightly away from the knuckle. It worked like a charm.

On the passenger side take caution, if the extension slips it could damage the bracket the trackbar bolts to.

-Eric