i have the check engine light on in my 2000 Cherokee. It’s for a vapor leak and I noticed the fuel evap line from the top of the tank to the canister is rusted out. The OEM part number is 52100162AE. Has anyone replace it before? What about with a rubber line instead of another metal one? That way it won’t rust out again. I don’t think it’s a pressure line really.
Old fart with a wrench
It's only a pressure line during the leak check and then one 1 psi! Yes, you can use a rubber line as long as you clamp it to eliminate vacuum leaks. Be sure to clean the remaining tube before slipping on the rubber because vacuum is the hardest thing to seal. The leak detection pump closes off the vents and pumps pressure into the system. If the pressure holds or bleeds down within a certain rate, it declares the system is good. If not. it sets a CEL or doesn't clear the monitor. Someone with a DRB scan tool can run a test on the circuit to see if there is a problem. With my 2000 WJ the monitor wouldn't clear in over 500 miles so my buddy ran a test. The test cleared the monitor so it would pass inspection. Why it wouldn't do it itself was the question. ???
Old fart with a wrench
Why? it pressure involved is less than a pound and it's just an atmospheric vent.
Quote:
I replaced this part on two of our XJs four years ago. Purchased them from the dealership at $16.50 each. It comes with the rubber connectors.Originally Posted by Mfran12345
i have the check engine light on in my 2000 Cherokee. It’s for a vapor leak and I noticed the fuel evap line from the top of the tank to the canister is rusted out. The OEM part number is 52100162AE. Has anyone replace it before? What about with a rubber line instead of another metal one? That way it won’t rust out again. I don’t think it’s a pressure line really.
CF Veteran
Quote:
Yea I know but he was asking for a better clamp. They are.Originally Posted by dave1123
Why? it pressure involved is less than a pound and it's just an atmospheric vent.
CF Veteran
Summit shows the line you need for about $20 + whatever shipping is, but delayed shipping. There is a listing on ebay for the same line, but costs double. You can keep metal lines looking good longer by painting them. I sprayed one of my transmission lines with engine paint. The stuff with ceramic in it. Works good. Making your own line works, too. Should be able to find everything you need at the parts store. If you go rubber, use rubber hose for emissions or fuel.
Old fart with a wrench
The best thing to use if you want to keep it metal is replace it with copper/nickel tubing. The stuff only costs a little more but is easy to work with and NEVER RUSTS! All of the brake pipes on my WJ are copper/nickel.
Old fart with a wrench
Probably NOS if you can find one. Otherwise aftermarket. (NOS=new old stock)
Old fart with a wrench
Yeah, just like those tiny grain-of-wheat bulbs that light up the buttons in my WJ's VIC. They are $7 each and the only ones in the national inventory at that time were on the OTHER coast! I went to the junkyard and pulled 6 out of other trucks and only 2 worked, one burnt out a week later.
country2
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- Join DateNov 2016
- LocationHomer Georgia
- Posts:804
- Year2000
- ModelCherokee
- Engine4.0l
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Liked:123 Times in 110 Posts
when I did mine 3 years ago I used a line bought from ebay that was from a Grand jeep Cherokee.Was the plastic/nylon evap lines (or what ever you want to call it). Think there was 2 line together don't know if they were for the front or back but I was able to cut it to length and to this day still working fine with no codes.




