Kamaran

I need some help guys..and I may not be the best at explaining this but last night I was on the freeway..65-68mph. Decided to turn the heater on, and when I did everything went super dim...like my headlights & dash & everything...just went super super dim!
Turned the heater off and they still stayed dim. Then maybe 20-30 seconds later, everything came back to normal. I got off on my exit, stopped at the light..no issues. I turn the radio on, and bam jeep dies. Rpms fall to 0. Try to crank it over with no luck..everything is bright like it should be..everything works like it should! Volts good, all gauges read normal!
I push it to a safe place off the road & pulled the fuel supply line..crank it & it spits fuel..so I know I have fuel at the rail, but not sure if they injectors are working or not...

I then pull the coil pack wire & crank it..no spark. The jeep will crank & crank & crank and never turn over...any ideas on what I should be looking/checking for here?

cruiser54

Check and refresh all battery cable connections first. Both ends of each cable. Check the large wire at the alternator to be sure it's tight.

Kamaran

Well funny thing is I just installed a KWIP grounding kit...its a complete kit, all grounding points cleaned & snugged down tight.

I'm thinking that maybe installing that caused shorts somewhere or something..idk?

cruiser54

What about the positive side? The wire to the relay, starter?

freegdr

recheck all the connections

cruiser54

Yup. Double check your work.

Kamaran

Alright rechecked it all..everythings good! Everythings tight & clean!
Starters hooked up nice & tight..it turns over just fine..starter & everything works like normal. It just won't fire up or bump start/push start!

cruiser54

Unplug your CPS connector and plug it back in.

I'm still concerned about the original symptoms of dimming lights etc.

Kamaran

I know..I smelt a burning smell..yes it was wires..no smoke & can't locate the source!
My headlights stayed on but litterally a flashlight was brighter.
Cps is but connected together..thats getting taken care of soon though! Thanks PO

anything else it could be?

5-90

Fine my writeup on testing the primary electrical system here, and run through it.

Sounds to me like your battery and/or alternator may be getting flaky on you. Electric motors are less sensitive to conditions than solid-state electronics, and I've seen it before where a battery on its way out (or an alternator) can leave you with good cranking but interfere with electronic ignition.

The fact that you're having a difficult time with push-starting is illiustrative here.

The primary electrical may be readily tested in the driveway with a multimeter, if you know how. Find the post - I tell you how.

Kamaran

Could be a battery..but I doubt the alternator. The alternator was just replaced when I installed the kit..new & not reman! Its a 100A, previously I had a 75A, starter also replaced..Battery will get replaced tomorrow though. So we will see.

I'm banking that something shorted..Good news? I fixed my blinkers lol, fuse was pretty nasty, pulled it cleaned it and bam works like new!

Still gotta figure out why it ain't starting, and why my ignition switch quit on me...I can remove my key & myjeep will keep running..doesn't shut off.

5-90

The fact of a problem with the electrical part of the ignition swtich (typically atop the column down by the firewall, connected to the key lock by an operating rod) is self-evident - given the symptoms.

And, just because a part is new, doesn't mean it's not defective. I've run across plenty of parts that were "failed in box." This is why I don't buy new starters or alternators, I'll get rewinds from Rod. Why? Because he does the work himself, he tests 100% on the bench, he can tell me the actual max output of an alternator if I want to know, and if something is "bad in the box," I know who I'm going to ***** at for it.

Big factory and commercial parts are subject to "statistical process control" - which means that individual parts are not tested at the factory. A batch of each production lot is tested, a certain percentage of failure in the box is accepted, and why do you think chain stores started "testing" parts before they left the store?

Granted, it's not much of a test - while starter motor no-load draw is usually indicated directly on the bench, alternators are tested for output voltage at a nominal current (typically 1.0-1.5A.) This isn't enough to run a decent flashlight... An alternator can "pass" on the bench but still be a failure in use, because it doesn't generate enough current.

This is why I've posted the writeup on primary electrical testing - you'll probably find it gives better results than the bench at Autozone or Advanced Auto...

mmattern1985

I had the exact same thing happen to me cruising my 89 down the highway. lights dimmed, radio shut off and when i pulled over it died. Smelled like burnt wires but no fire. I started wiggling some wires under the dash and it eventually started up and got me home. When I got it home. I pulled the ignition switch off and the ends on the connectors where cooked and the switch was melted.I replaced the ignition switch, put new connectors on the ends of the wires, and it fired right up and haven't had that problem happen again.

Kamaran

New battery and alternator in. Still no start. Alternator was replaced for free battery is a big *** one from Sears. 8xx CCA...
Pulled my dash apart yesterday...gonna have someone help me look this over today.

Jon as you already know me and wiring don't go together lol.

mmattern1985

Try your ignition switch its easy to replace and only 10 bucks