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renix problems!!! new to the fourm

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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 01:19 AM
  #61  
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i will look into that dflinstone! I have read about that but haven't looked at it yet.
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 07:54 AM
  #62  
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Don't delete the vac harnesses.

Do this. Check to see if the intake has a leak by spraying around it at idle with carb cleaner.

Is the hose from the rear CCV grommet to the intake manifold new?

Is the fitting where the hose attaches to the manifold clogged up with carbon deposits?

Here's how to adjust the TV cable. And, keep the Trans switch in Power mode.

With the high failure rate of TPSs, it may be a good idea to replace it.
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 11:14 AM
  #63  
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I'll be spraying it later today,the grommet and hose are old, I have sprayed the hose out though,grommet also looks beat up if you pull it out and look at it but not clogged, will recheck though. I do plan on testing the trans side today to see what I get, and will replace if its not to spec, since engine side is.
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 11:15 AM
  #64  
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is there a reason i cant just delete the harness? besides blow back into the air filter if i dont do it right? Can someone pm me the vac harness set up, the ones online I found are vague.

Last edited by Dynamic; Jun 12, 2014 at 03:47 PM.
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 04:25 PM
  #65  
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so I sprayed my manifold, I lose some idle, bogg down, I guess he used the old gasket, already tried to tighten the bolts no luck, time for a new gasket and resurface
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 05:54 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Dynamic
so I sprayed my manifold, I lose some idle, bogg down, I guess he used the old gasket, already tried to tighten the bolts no luck, time for a new gasket and resurface
Makes sense.

Leave the harnesses!!
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 09:47 PM
  #67  
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On some aftermarket exhaust manifolds, headers, it seems they make the "flange", (the lip that sticks out around the edge), thicker than the intake manifold. This prevents the washers under the manifold bolts from pulling the intake manifold up tight. There you would expect a vacuum leak that would cause high idle. At least one engine on something I worked on had "stepped" washers that needed to be installed "just so".

Idk myself. If that's your issue I might contact the supplier of the header....
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Old Jun 13, 2014 | 12:03 AM
  #68  
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Note from DJ
Have a look in "My Photo" for '88 Engine Vacuum Diagram

Last edited by djgrayxj; Jun 13, 2014 at 06:53 AM.
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Old Jun 13, 2014 | 07:07 AM
  #69  
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This?
Attached Images  
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Old Jun 13, 2014 | 09:02 PM
  #70  
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update, yay no more low idle and it feels so much smoother!!!!! i changed the manifold gasket, now i dont have any wandering!! but my engine now sits at 1250 park and 800 in gear, so i am close! doesnt seem like it wants to change loops. Im still wondering about the tps since i never changed it. but after i put everything back together, i noticed that it looks like the po tried to secure a cable with a ziptie. i dont have the zip tie on any more and the cable has a spring to it. here is a pic if some one can tell me what cable it is. I know i need alot of help sorry. also after everything was put back together i check my tps and it was at .93 and had crazy high idle, adjusted it to .83 and this is where we are at! ohh yeah i forgot to mention the "crazy high idle" was because i forgot to hook up a few lines lol
thanks for all the help too guys, im almost there!
Attached Thumbnails renix problems!!! new to the fourm-wp_20140613_002-1-.jpg  

Last edited by Dynamic; Jun 13, 2014 at 09:21 PM.
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Old Jun 13, 2014 | 09:06 PM
  #71  
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also thank you for those diagrams, the same ones i saw before but a way better understanding of it now, guess i just had to look at it harder!
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Old Jun 13, 2014 | 11:27 PM
  #72  
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Might wanna look at my post 14 about the throttle body. Maybe someone messed with it.
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 03:49 PM
  #73  
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the cable above that I took a picture of is not letting my throttle close all the way. Which is causing the high idle. Anyone know what cable its called? Towards the bottom of pic with a spring attached! Thanks
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 04:08 PM
  #74  
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I thought we covered that back in post #58?

Originally Posted by DFlintstone
The "kickdown cable" , is adjusted by pushing the button on top, right there where the cable comes out of the housing. There is a "process", but I just adjust mine with about Zero play. Not likely related to your issue, but something to check/adjust anyway.
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Old Jun 16, 2014 | 04:13 PM
  #75  
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From: wheatridge, colorado!!!
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on post 70 the cable to the bottom which looks like it can't be adjusted. I already adjusted the kickdown cable. It looks like it broke from the where it seats
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