Hi guys,
I'm new here, but what i've gathered from searching around this forum for the past 5 hrs that has left me with questions are:
PS: engine is the 4.0 litre (2001 larado)
I'm new here, but what i've gathered from searching around this forum for the past 5 hrs that has left me with questions are:
- head bolt #11 requires RTV sealant - where exactly do i put the sealant? just load up the hole and torque the bolt in?
- reinstallation of the rocker arms requires the engine to be at TDC - this is obvious when the head is off, but how do i know which rocker arm to do next after i tighten down the rocker arms to cylinder #1?
PS: engine is the 4.0 litre (2001 larado)
CF Veteran
I'd think you'd pull a spark plug and wait for the piston to reach the top.
I'm not sure on the RTV, though, I thought you just put a bit on the thread.
I'm not sure on the RTV, though, I thought you just put a bit on the thread.
Quote:
I'm not sure on the RTV, though, I thought you just put a bit on the thread.
Thanks for the response, i would imagine it'd be impossible to get your head close enough to the cylinder to see the piston while the motor is still in the car? no? I will try it though when i get home.Originally Posted by Gee oh Dee
I'd think you'd pull a spark plug and wait for the piston to reach the top.I'm not sure on the RTV, though, I thought you just put a bit on the thread.
I was wondering if, after i secured rocker arms to clyinder #1, i then turned the engine over with a 3/4inch socket at the crank and moved to the next cylinder in the firing order? My concern here is that: Would one full turn with the socket wrench leave the next cylinder in the firing order at top-dead-center?
Junior Member
What I do on bikes is:
pull sparkplug
insert bamboo skewer
turn crank until skewer at highest point
HTH
pull sparkplug
insert bamboo skewer
turn crank until skewer at highest point
HTH
CF Veteran
when # 1 cyl. is a tdc so is 3 and 5 once you tighten them then rotate engine around till the # 2 cyl. is tdc and tighten the rest when 1,3,5 is at tdc 2,4,6 is bdc so when you rotate the engine to tdc 2,4,6 it will be tdc you need to make sure you are at the end of the exaust stroke and not at the end of the intake stroke. hope this helped
It's not RTV - it's locktite. NO RTV to be used near the head gasket
from the FSM:
from the FSM:
Quote:
INSTALLATION:
The engine cylinder head gasket is a composition gasket. The gasket is to be installed DRY. DO NOT use a gasket sealing compound on the gasket.
(1) Remove the shop towels from the cylinder bores. Coat the bores with clean engine oil.
(2) Position the engine cylinder head gasket (with the numbers facing up) onto the cylinder block.
CAUTION: Engine cylinder head bolts should be reused only once. Replace the head bolts if they were used before or if they have a paint dab on the top of the bolt.
(3) With bolt No.14 held in place (tape around bolt), install the engine cylinder head. Remove the tape from bolt No.14.
(4) Coat the threads of stud bolt No.11 with Loctite 592 sealant, or equivalent.
(5) Tighten the engine cylinder head bolts in sequence according to the following procedure (Fig. 7):
(a) Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14) to 30 Nzm (22 ft. lbs.) torque.
(b) Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14) to 61 Nzm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(c) Check all bolts to verify they are set to 61 Nzm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(d) Tighten bolts (in sequence):
+ Bolts 1 through 10 to 149 Nzm (110 ft. lbs.) torque.
+ Bolts 11 to 13 Nzm (100 ft. lbs.) torque.
+ Bolts 12 through 14 to 149 Nzm (110 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: During the final tightening sequence, bolt No.11 will be tightened to a lower torque than the rest of the bolts. DO NOT overtighten bolt No.11.
(e) Check all bolts in sequence to verify the correct torque.
(f) If not already done, clean and mark each bolt with a dab of paint after tightening. Should you encounter bolts which were painted in an earlier service operation, replace them.
(6) Install the ignition coil and bracket assembly.
(7) Connect the temperature sending unit wire connector.
(8) Install the spark plugs and tighten to 37 Nzm (27 ft. lbs.) torque. Connect the ignition wires.
(9) Install the intake and engine exhaust manifolds
(10) Install the fuel lines and the vacuum advance hose.
(11) If equipped, attach the power steering pump and bracket.
(12) Install the push rods, rocker arms, pivots and bridges in the order they were removed.
a) Lubricate the ball ends of the push rods with Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or equivalent and install push rods in their original locations. Ensure that the bottom end of each push rod is centered in the tappet plunger cap seat.
b) Using Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or equivalent, lubricate the area of the rocker arm that the pivot contacts. Install rocker arms, pivots and bridge above each cylinder in their originally position.
c) Loosely install the capscrews through each bridge.
(d) At each bridge, tighten the capscrews alternately, one turn at a time, to avoid damaging the bridge. Tighten the capscrews to 28 Nzm (21 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install the engine cylinder head cover.
INSTALLATION:
The engine cylinder head gasket is a composition gasket. The gasket is to be installed DRY. DO NOT use a gasket sealing compound on the gasket.
(1) Remove the shop towels from the cylinder bores. Coat the bores with clean engine oil.
(2) Position the engine cylinder head gasket (with the numbers facing up) onto the cylinder block.
CAUTION: Engine cylinder head bolts should be reused only once. Replace the head bolts if they were used before or if they have a paint dab on the top of the bolt.
(3) With bolt No.14 held in place (tape around bolt), install the engine cylinder head. Remove the tape from bolt No.14.
(4) Coat the threads of stud bolt No.11 with Loctite 592 sealant, or equivalent.
(5) Tighten the engine cylinder head bolts in sequence according to the following procedure (Fig. 7):
(a) Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14) to 30 Nzm (22 ft. lbs.) torque.
(b) Tighten all bolts in sequence (1 through 14) to 61 Nzm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(c) Check all bolts to verify they are set to 61 Nzm (45 ft. lbs.) torque.
(d) Tighten bolts (in sequence):
+ Bolts 1 through 10 to 149 Nzm (110 ft. lbs.) torque.
+ Bolts 11 to 13 Nzm (100 ft. lbs.) torque.
+ Bolts 12 through 14 to 149 Nzm (110 ft. lbs.) torque.
CAUTION: During the final tightening sequence, bolt No.11 will be tightened to a lower torque than the rest of the bolts. DO NOT overtighten bolt No.11.
(e) Check all bolts in sequence to verify the correct torque.
(f) If not already done, clean and mark each bolt with a dab of paint after tightening. Should you encounter bolts which were painted in an earlier service operation, replace them.
(6) Install the ignition coil and bracket assembly.
(7) Connect the temperature sending unit wire connector.
(8) Install the spark plugs and tighten to 37 Nzm (27 ft. lbs.) torque. Connect the ignition wires.
(9) Install the intake and engine exhaust manifolds
(10) Install the fuel lines and the vacuum advance hose.
(11) If equipped, attach the power steering pump and bracket.
(12) Install the push rods, rocker arms, pivots and bridges in the order they were removed.
a) Lubricate the ball ends of the push rods with Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or equivalent and install push rods in their original locations. Ensure that the bottom end of each push rod is centered in the tappet plunger cap seat.
b) Using Mopar Engine Oil Supplement, or equivalent, lubricate the area of the rocker arm that the pivot contacts. Install rocker arms, pivots and bridge above each cylinder in their originally position.
c) Loosely install the capscrews through each bridge.
(d) At each bridge, tighten the capscrews alternately, one turn at a time, to avoid damaging the bridge. Tighten the capscrews to 28 Nzm (21 ft. lbs.) torque.
(13) Install the engine cylinder head cover.
Quote:
from the FSM:
Appreciate that. So, according to the service manual, the engine does NOT have to be at TDC in order to tighten any of the rocker arms? Just torque them down no matter what position they are in?Originally Posted by dukie564
It's not RTV - it's locktite. NO RTV to be used near the head gasketfrom the FSM:
Quote:
How many turns will it be for 2,4,6 to be at TDC? (starting at cylinder #1 TDC)Originally Posted by mwdouglas
when # 1 cyl. is a tdc so is 3 and 5 once you tighten them then rotate engine around till the # 2 cyl. is tdc and tighten the rest when 1,3,5 is at tdc 2,4,6 is bdc so when you rotate the engine to tdc 2,4,6 it will be tdc you need to make sure you are at the end of the exaust stroke and not at the end of the intake stroke. hope this helped
Surely i cannot tighten 1,3,5 all at once? as you said - one will be at the end of its exhaust stroke.
The rockers are NON-adjustable on a stock 4.0. The valves in a 4.0L are hydraulic and thus self adjusting. Therefore you do not need to rotate the cylinders when reinstalling
Quote:
Ok, great! Thats what i was looking for, so 21ft-lbs on each rocker arm will be enough to compress the spring (if thats where the rocker is in its cycle) AND secure the rocker arm in place on the head?Originally Posted by dukie564
The rockers are NON-adjustable on a stock 4.0. The valves in a 4.0L are hydraulic and thus self adjusting. Therefore you do not need to rotate the cylinders when reinstalling
just make sure you tighten everything evenly and little by little to allow for the proper seating
Junior Member
Just did a head replacement myself and no need for TDC, just alternate back and forth from each bolt on the rockers and all is well.
The sealant on bolt 11 I used was pipe thread sealant, only put a small amount on the threads of the bolt and torqued her down. I actually used some Permatex (56521) high temp thread sealant.
The sealant on bolt 11 I used was pipe thread sealant, only put a small amount on the threads of the bolt and torqued her down. I actually used some Permatex (56521) high temp thread sealant.