redoing entire brake system on my XJ now that I have completed rebuilding the front e
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Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Homer Georgia
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
redoing entire brake system on my XJ now that I have completed rebuilding the front e
Got the rebuild on front done finally and it drivers like a dream now well except for the front calipers stuck on drivers side.Passenger is also tight but not as bad a drivers side yup I know about the groove being worn where the pads slide and already welded them up. Did notice during the front-end rebuild when I decided to replace pads while I had them off both calipers the pistons seemed really tight compressing when I was replacing the pads. So figured what the hell the hard lines are rusted pretty bad especially the front ones and don't think anything but pads/shoes rotors and drums has ever been changed lets order more new parts and do them also.
So ordered a complete hard line kit , 2 new calipers, master cylinder, rear shoes and rear wheel brake cylinders along with new hardware for the rears.Everything should be cut and dry only thing I except issues with is the brake lines..ie rusted out hangers. Is there any order on the line installation should be followed or just work front to back. Also any tips to know to make it go smoother? Thanks!
So ordered a complete hard line kit , 2 new calipers, master cylinder, rear shoes and rear wheel brake cylinders along with new hardware for the rears.Everything should be cut and dry only thing I except issues with is the brake lines..ie rusted out hangers. Is there any order on the line installation should be followed or just work front to back. Also any tips to know to make it go smoother? Thanks!
Last edited by country2; Aug 18, 2019 at 08:14 PM.
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Year: 2000
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Did you get new brake hoses?
2 for the front calipers and the one on top of the rear diff for the rear.
For the two on the front you are going to need a torx to get the front ones off.
When you say hardware did you buy the "Maxi Pack" and the "Adjuster Kit" for the rear?
Cause it requires to separate kits of hardware to replace everything in the rear.
No mention of drums.
Assuming you know what size brakes you have, 9" or 10", before you bought that stuff.
You bought new hard line Kit? Pre bent?
I replaced the passenger side front in a '96 once.
Did it in 2 pieces with a connector and that was a challenge getting it, around things, etc.
Can only imagine what trying to put a one piece line in on that side will be like.
The other ones will be a piece of cake though.
Rusted out hangers?
2 for the front calipers and the one on top of the rear diff for the rear.
For the two on the front you are going to need a torx to get the front ones off.
When you say hardware did you buy the "Maxi Pack" and the "Adjuster Kit" for the rear?
Cause it requires to separate kits of hardware to replace everything in the rear.
No mention of drums.
Assuming you know what size brakes you have, 9" or 10", before you bought that stuff.
You bought new hard line Kit? Pre bent?
I replaced the passenger side front in a '96 once.
Did it in 2 pieces with a connector and that was a challenge getting it, around things, etc.
Can only imagine what trying to put a one piece line in on that side will be like.
The other ones will be a piece of cake though.
Rusted out hangers?
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Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Homer Georgia
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Yup got all rubber lines.
New hardware for rears is new spring/adj kits for both sides, bought the center rubber hose and adjusters drums looks like new still so gonna reuse them. I have the smooth drums with no ribs on outside so its a 9".
All hard-lines are SS and per-bent. Yea figure some of the lines will be a challenge to get to and route.
Rusted hangers mainly talking about the mounting bracket for the front ones inside fender wheel.
New hardware for rears is new spring/adj kits for both sides, bought the center rubber hose and adjusters drums looks like new still so gonna reuse them. I have the smooth drums with no ribs on outside so its a 9".
All hard-lines are SS and per-bent. Yea figure some of the lines will be a challenge to get to and route.
Rusted hangers mainly talking about the mounting bracket for the front ones inside fender wheel.
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From: Good 'ol WI
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Sounds like you're on the right track. Couple thoughts based on a lot of brake re-do's. These are my general 'good practices' for any brake job:
1) You may need to loop the hard brake lines if some are too long ...especially at the rear axle or up by the master cylinder. As you know they come in certain sizes.
2) I have double-flair brake flairing tools, but honestly, it's hit and miss, I just use new lines of the best length possible and loop as described above.
3) Obviously bench-bleed the master cyl if you haven't already. That goes w/o saying ....but it's still worth saying it for newbie forum readers.
4) take a file and wire brush and make sure the wheel hubs are VERY clean and free of any rust. You want them clean down to the original tooling marks. Otherwise you can't get the rotors 'true'.
5) Use a dial indicator to ensure rotor run-out is as low as possible. Don't trust new rotors to be true. They often aren't! You should be able to get run-out to about .001"- .002" measured at about 3/4 of the way towards the outer edge. I would not accept anything more than .002. If you don't measure them with a dial indicator you'll never know. Often when run-out is a little high, rotate the rotors clockwise 1 lug and re-measure, repeat as necessary. If that doesn't work, take the rotor from the other wheel and try that. If neither are good, you could have a hub bearing slightly out of alignment or two bad rotors.
The easiest way I've found is to have about 5 oversized nuts (from a hardware store) that will slide over the wheel studs. Then use the lugnuts to tighten down the rotor. it doesn't have to be super tight ...just good and snug. Put the dial indicator on a bucket partly full of water so it doesn't rock or move around. On top of the bucket put a piece of steel to hold the magnetic base. That is really the way to go for the rear rotors.
6) Bleed, bleed, bleed. Ensure there is no air. Everyone has their preferred method. Personally those vacuum pump bleeders take forever. I just have my wife as the brake pumper -- works best. Just make sure there's no air in the system.
7) Double-check the brake fluid color before you pour it into the system. It should be clear. If it's anything other than clear, toss or return it. I've bought brand new fluid on a couple occasions that was the color of beer ...and that's got water in it. Make sure it's clear.
8) Ensure all brake surfaces are smooth and clear. Use a file to clean away sliding surfaces that are dirty or rusty. A brake lube product is avail from Permetex that works really well. Anti-sieze on sliders work well too (although not as good).
9) Make sure brake pad backing plates don't have sharp edges from when they were poorly stamped. File down any rough or sharp edges.
10) If re-using the old calipers, it's a good idea to run the piston in with a c-clamp (and push back out with pedal) a couple times.
11) For drum brakes, might as well replace brake cylinders. They're cheap. Make sure the surface where the brake shoes slide against the backing plate, is burr-free so the shoes slide and return freely like they're supposed to. Don't flip-flop the leading and trailing shoes (common mistake)!
Good luck!
1) You may need to loop the hard brake lines if some are too long ...especially at the rear axle or up by the master cylinder. As you know they come in certain sizes.
2) I have double-flair brake flairing tools, but honestly, it's hit and miss, I just use new lines of the best length possible and loop as described above.
3) Obviously bench-bleed the master cyl if you haven't already. That goes w/o saying ....but it's still worth saying it for newbie forum readers.
4) take a file and wire brush and make sure the wheel hubs are VERY clean and free of any rust. You want them clean down to the original tooling marks. Otherwise you can't get the rotors 'true'.
5) Use a dial indicator to ensure rotor run-out is as low as possible. Don't trust new rotors to be true. They often aren't! You should be able to get run-out to about .001"- .002" measured at about 3/4 of the way towards the outer edge. I would not accept anything more than .002. If you don't measure them with a dial indicator you'll never know. Often when run-out is a little high, rotate the rotors clockwise 1 lug and re-measure, repeat as necessary. If that doesn't work, take the rotor from the other wheel and try that. If neither are good, you could have a hub bearing slightly out of alignment or two bad rotors.
The easiest way I've found is to have about 5 oversized nuts (from a hardware store) that will slide over the wheel studs. Then use the lugnuts to tighten down the rotor. it doesn't have to be super tight ...just good and snug. Put the dial indicator on a bucket partly full of water so it doesn't rock or move around. On top of the bucket put a piece of steel to hold the magnetic base. That is really the way to go for the rear rotors.
6) Bleed, bleed, bleed. Ensure there is no air. Everyone has their preferred method. Personally those vacuum pump bleeders take forever. I just have my wife as the brake pumper -- works best. Just make sure there's no air in the system.
7) Double-check the brake fluid color before you pour it into the system. It should be clear. If it's anything other than clear, toss or return it. I've bought brand new fluid on a couple occasions that was the color of beer ...and that's got water in it. Make sure it's clear.
8) Ensure all brake surfaces are smooth and clear. Use a file to clean away sliding surfaces that are dirty or rusty. A brake lube product is avail from Permetex that works really well. Anti-sieze on sliders work well too (although not as good).
9) Make sure brake pad backing plates don't have sharp edges from when they were poorly stamped. File down any rough or sharp edges.
10) If re-using the old calipers, it's a good idea to run the piston in with a c-clamp (and push back out with pedal) a couple times.
11) For drum brakes, might as well replace brake cylinders. They're cheap. Make sure the surface where the brake shoes slide against the backing plate, is burr-free so the shoes slide and return freely like they're supposed to. Don't flip-flop the leading and trailing shoes (common mistake)!
Good luck!
Last edited by Jeepwalker; Aug 19, 2019 at 10:12 AM.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 807
Likes: 124
From: Homer Georgia
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Sounds like you're on the right track. Couple thoughts based on a lot of brake re-do's. These are my general 'good practices' for any brake job:
1) You may need to loop the hard brake lines if some are too long ...especially at the rear axle or up by the master cylinder. As you know they come in certain sizes.
2) I have double-flair brake flairing tools, but honestly, it's hit and miss, I just use new lines of the best length possible and loop as described above.
3) Obviously bench-bleed the master cyl if you haven't already. That goes w/o saying ....but it's still worth saying it for newbie forum readers.
4) take a file and wire brush and make sure the wheel hubs are VERY clean and free of any rust. You want them clean down to the original tooling marks. Otherwise you can't get the rotors 'true'.
5) Use a dial indicator to ensure rotor run-out is as low as possible. Don't trust new rotors to be true. They often aren't! You should be able to get run-out to about .001"- .002" measured at about 3/4 of the way towards the outer edge. I would not accept anything more than .002. If you don't measure them with a dial indicator you'll never know. Often when run-out is a little high, rotate the rotors clockwise 1 lug and re-measure, repeat as necessary. If that doesn't work, take the rotor from the other wheel and try that. If neither are good, you could have a hub bearing slightly out of alignment or two bad rotors.
The easiest way I've found is to have about 5 oversized nuts (from a hardware store) that will slide over the wheel studs. Then use the lugnuts to tighten down the rotor. it doesn't have to be super tight ...just good and snug. Put the dial indicator on a bucket partly full of water so it doesn't rock or move around. On top of the bucket put a piece of steel to hold the magnetic base. That is really the way to go for the rear rotors.
6) Bleed, bleed, bleed. Ensure there is no air. Everyone has their preferred method. Personally those vacuum pump bleeders take forever. I just have my wife as the brake pumper -- works best. Just make sure there's no air in the system.
7) Double-check the brake fluid color before you pour it into the system. It should be clear. If it's anything other than clear, toss or return it. I've bought brand new fluid on a couple occasions that was the color of beer ...and that's got water in it. Make sure it's clear.
8) Ensure all brake surfaces are smooth and clear. Use a file to clean away sliding surfaces that are dirty or rusty. A brake lube product is avail from Permetex that works really well. Anti-sieze on sliders work well too (although not as good).
9) Make sure brake pad backing plates don't have sharp edges from when they were poorly stamped. File down any rough or sharp edges.
10) If re-using the old calipers, it's a good idea to run the piston in with a c-clamp (and push back out with pedal) a couple times.
11) For drum brakes, might as well replace brake cylinders. They're cheap. Make sure the surface where the brake shoes slide against the backing plate, is burr-free so the shoes slide and return freely like they're supposed to. Don't flip-flop the leading and trailing shoes (common mistake)!
Good luck!
1) You may need to loop the hard brake lines if some are too long ...especially at the rear axle or up by the master cylinder. As you know they come in certain sizes.
2) I have double-flair brake flairing tools, but honestly, it's hit and miss, I just use new lines of the best length possible and loop as described above.
3) Obviously bench-bleed the master cyl if you haven't already. That goes w/o saying ....but it's still worth saying it for newbie forum readers.
4) take a file and wire brush and make sure the wheel hubs are VERY clean and free of any rust. You want them clean down to the original tooling marks. Otherwise you can't get the rotors 'true'.
5) Use a dial indicator to ensure rotor run-out is as low as possible. Don't trust new rotors to be true. They often aren't! You should be able to get run-out to about .001"- .002" measured at about 3/4 of the way towards the outer edge. I would not accept anything more than .002. If you don't measure them with a dial indicator you'll never know. Often when run-out is a little high, rotate the rotors clockwise 1 lug and re-measure, repeat as necessary. If that doesn't work, take the rotor from the other wheel and try that. If neither are good, you could have a hub bearing slightly out of alignment or two bad rotors.
The easiest way I've found is to have about 5 oversized nuts (from a hardware store) that will slide over the wheel studs. Then use the lugnuts to tighten down the rotor. it doesn't have to be super tight ...just good and snug. Put the dial indicator on a bucket partly full of water so it doesn't rock or move around. On top of the bucket put a piece of steel to hold the magnetic base. That is really the way to go for the rear rotors.
6) Bleed, bleed, bleed. Ensure there is no air. Everyone has their preferred method. Personally those vacuum pump bleeders take forever. I just have my wife as the brake pumper -- works best. Just make sure there's no air in the system.
7) Double-check the brake fluid color before you pour it into the system. It should be clear. If it's anything other than clear, toss or return it. I've bought brand new fluid on a couple occasions that was the color of beer ...and that's got water in it. Make sure it's clear.
8) Ensure all brake surfaces are smooth and clear. Use a file to clean away sliding surfaces that are dirty or rusty. A brake lube product is avail from Permetex that works really well. Anti-sieze on sliders work well too (although not as good).
9) Make sure brake pad backing plates don't have sharp edges from when they were poorly stamped. File down any rough or sharp edges.
10) If re-using the old calipers, it's a good idea to run the piston in with a c-clamp (and push back out with pedal) a couple times.
11) For drum brakes, might as well replace brake cylinders. They're cheap. Make sure the surface where the brake shoes slide against the backing plate, is burr-free so the shoes slide and return freely like they're supposed to. Don't flip-flop the leading and trailing shoes (common mistake)!
Good luck!
Think I will need good luck as nothing on this XJ has went per plan except changing the wiper blades...lol
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 682
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From: Good 'ol WI
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Think I will need good luck as nothing on this XJ has went per plan except changing the wiper blades...lol
Oh well, once you get it done, you should have good safe brakes for a long time.
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I don’t think I saw this mentioned. DO NOT take apart both rear brakes at the same time, you will most likely need the other side as a reference. Also, I bought a pre bent rear hard line and it was a real pain to get it to fit properly, I wish I would have bought a spool of brake line and flaring tool to give myself extra to work with. Be careful not to cross thread any fittings at the proportioning valve like I did, otherwise you will end up with Teflon tape on the threads, hoping that it stays sealed until you can replace it... or “forget” to replace it 
Thread Starter
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From: Homer Georgia
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
I don’t think I saw this mentioned. DO NOT take apart both rear brakes at the same time, you will most likely need the other side as a reference. Also, I bought a pre bent rear hard line and it was a real pain to get it to fit properly, I wish I would have bought a spool of brake line and flaring tool to give myself extra to work with. Be careful not to cross thread any fittings at the proportioning valve like I did, otherwise you will end up with Teflon tape on the threads, hoping that it stays sealed until you can replace it... or “forget” to replace it
I was thinking about how much a pain the the *** the passenger front looks to install. Thought about buying a flare tool kit and some couplings and fittings to splice into sections if need but having a hard time finding one that will bend (meant flare) stainless steel and not cost a arm in leg.
Last edited by country2; Aug 20, 2019 at 08:40 PM.
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I was thinking about how much a pain the the *** the passenger front looks to install. Thought about buying a flare tool kit and some couplings and fittings to splice into sections if need but having a hard time finding one that will bend stainless steel and not cost a arm in leg.
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From: Homer Georgia
Year: 2000
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a roll of Cunifer brake line is about 30 bucks (Copper--Nickle-Iron)
corossion resistant, bends by hand, flares easy
you do still need a flare kit, but its easy, (steel lines chew the crap out of a cheap brake flare mandrel)
corossion resistant, bends by hand, flares easy
you do still need a flare kit, but its easy, (steel lines chew the crap out of a cheap brake flare mandrel)
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From: Homer Georgia
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yea, hoping the ss lines comes in today. Going to try the hardest one first...the passenger front. figured I'll try it a hour or two and if still not routed going to order some copper / nickle brake line from Amazon as IF I order in next 5 hours it will arrive tomorrow. That will be one way to get it done!
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From: Homer Georgia
Year: 2000
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Guess the jeep gods are playing nice now. New brake lines came in and the passenger front one was 2 piece so was easier putting in. Got all the fronts ran but not tighten yet as still got to install the MC and tweak some of the bends to my liking.
Last edited by country2; Aug 21, 2019 at 07:29 PM.
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From: Homer Georgia
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Well finally got it done! Replaced everything except rear brake line and rear wheel cylinders as someone had previously replaced the line from front to rear axle and wheel cylinders did not look bad plus after 3 weeks on working on this after work and any weekend I got off I'm just wore out. Strange thing was the drivers rear brake shoe was busted in 2 places on secondary shoe and a large piece of the liner was riding against the primary shoes. I know it was not like this about 20k miles ago just trying to figure out what happened.