I am about to replace my leaf spring bushings and have been spraying the nuts & bolts with penetrating oil. Some of the youtube videos indicate that these bolts have had red loc-tite applied to them. Is this for real? Do I have to heat the bolts up to break the red loc-tite? How much heat does it need as there is no access to the nut on the front of the leaf spring?

I really don't want to break off the nut in the frame.

I am intending to use the blue loc-tite when I reassemble.

 

I don't think mine did, but with the amount of rust I had you definitely want to use as much heat as you can

If the bolt snaps it's kind of a PITA to knock it out with a hammer

 

I just lubed with pb blaster every day for a week before I did the install and it came out fine. But I forgot to lube the bolts that hols the shocks and they did crack in the frame even with heat.

 

I heated all of mine and they came out of the weld nuts without breaking any. I did have a couple that were seized in the leaf spring bushing sleeves that I had to cut.

 

I recently replaced my leaf springs. I had also read a lot about the red loctite. I used a propane torch and moved it continuously around the frame where the capture nut is. I alternated heat and PB Blaster 4-5 times, heating a couple minutes each time. Used a breaker bar and got both sides loose without breaking the bolt. One did seize in the metal bushing but I've taken care of that problem before.

 

I blast a mix of used ATF/turps right up into the frame, with a long nozzle gun, around where the internal thread would be,
use about 1litre, to make sure its soaked, leave it for a few weeks

never needed heat, but they are hard to crack loose, I work them back and forth, using 3/4" gear and an impact gun

I copperslip all the bolts, better to check them with a torque wrench once a year than have them sieze

 

I'd put heat on it just to be safe. Since you're in CA, you may not have the brutal rusting that we get around here, but I had all 4 bushings seized to the bolt and had to do a LOT of cutting.

The original bolts are DEFINITELY red-loctite'd. If you buy Mopar bolts, they'll actually come with the loctite already on them. (I'd have at least a couple of new bolts on hand - even if you're in a low rust area - I bought 6 new Mopar bolts and burned off the red loctite) So if your springs have never been replaced, you will need heat or you will snap off the weld nuts.

 

I'm assuming that "copperslip" is what we would refer to as "Anti-seize" here in the States.

I used anti-seize on the flat part of the bolt where the bushing sits and blue loctite on the threads. So far, so good.

 

Thanks to all for your comments. It seems clear that I need to have a source of heat for this job. This is a rust-free California Jeep but the loc-tite is a game changer.

 

A simple MAP torch from Home Depot will work fine. They usually sell the kit with the little MAP gas tank and nozzle for $30-50. It's a super useful tool to have for a variety of home and auto projects. I'd recommend having a couple of plumbers pads/welding blankets to isolate the area where you're applying heat. There are fuel lines on the frame rail on the driver's side you'll want to be careful of.

 

I bought the same and they were coated the entire length of the threads and nearly all the way around, and super thick. Its ridiculous. No way are they going in like that.

 

Go with the MAP gas and not the propane. It's a lot hotter. Buy 2 tanks.