Rebuilt engine won't start.
#1
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Model: Cherokee
Rebuilt engine won't start.
alright so this isn't my first jeep, actually my 4th. but its giving me the most problems so far. I bought a 1996 xj for 300 dollars. wasn't running. so I figure rebuild the motor just to be safe. the list: water pump, oil pump, timing set, cam shaft, lifters, rocker arms, push rods, piston rings, bearings all around, and gasket set. now I have put it all together torqued to spec. hand turn to motor, turns great. heres my problem, IT WONT START!!! I have replaced crankshaft position sensor, fuel filter, coil, spark plugs, plug wires, idle sensor, map sensor. idk what else to do.
side note: I have spark, I have great compression, I have great fuel pressure. I have gone to a junkyard to look at another 96 to see if I may have forget to to connect a wire. I haven't but I have notice that my wire connectors are different on a couple, like the crankshaft position sensor (when I bought the new one I had to splice the old connector to it so itd fit.)
please someone help me here!
side note: I have spark, I have great compression, I have great fuel pressure. I have gone to a junkyard to look at another 96 to see if I may have forget to to connect a wire. I haven't but I have notice that my wire connectors are different on a couple, like the crankshaft position sensor (when I bought the new one I had to splice the old connector to it so itd fit.)
please someone help me here!
#2
Don't shoot me for asking a silly question but are you POSITIVE that all of your fuel injectors are plugged into the correct cylinder numbers on the harness and that your spark plugs are connected to the correct points of the distributor? It sounds like everything else it good to go?
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
Need more info.
When you say "it doesn't start", I assume you mean it cranks but will not fire.
If you have spark, and fuel pressure, then either the injectors are not firing, or something else in the pcm is causing the engine to not run. Use a "noid light" to check injector pulse.
What was the original problem with the Jeep "not running"?
Have you checked the crank position sensor? Have you checked all wiring to make sure you have each cylinder connected?
Does it sound like it wants to start, or does it sound like it is just dry cranking?
Almost certainly electrical
When you say "it doesn't start", I assume you mean it cranks but will not fire.
If you have spark, and fuel pressure, then either the injectors are not firing, or something else in the pcm is causing the engine to not run. Use a "noid light" to check injector pulse.
What was the original problem with the Jeep "not running"?
Have you checked the crank position sensor? Have you checked all wiring to make sure you have each cylinder connected?
Does it sound like it wants to start, or does it sound like it is just dry cranking?
Almost certainly electrical
#4
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
#6
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Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0
#7
I think you are right.
Indexing is indexing........new.........old........matters not.
Do you have pics and info regarding indexing correctly with window cut in cap?
He needs to start over with indexing..........from scratch.
Further.......he says it did not run BEFORE and apparently he never answered that question as to why.
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#8
I want to further add this possibility........
He states he had to 'splice' in the CPS.
Some 96s from what I understand are bastards........1/2 are OBD1 and 1/2 are OBDIIs........depending on the break in production.
Why was he splicing???????????????
Possible II to I CPS???
He needs to figure out what he has and what he has done.
He states he had to 'splice' in the CPS.
Some 96s from what I understand are bastards........1/2 are OBD1 and 1/2 are OBDIIs........depending on the break in production.
Why was he splicing???????????????
Possible II to I CPS???
He needs to figure out what he has and what he has done.
#9
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I think you are right.
Indexing is indexing........new.........old........matters not.
Do you have pics and info regarding indexing correctly with window cut in cap?
He needs to start over with indexing..........from scratch.
Further.......he says it did not run BEFORE and apparently he never answered that question as to why.
Indexing is indexing........new.........old........matters not.
Do you have pics and info regarding indexing correctly with window cut in cap?
He needs to start over with indexing..........from scratch.
Further.......he says it did not run BEFORE and apparently he never answered that question as to why.
Here's a link to Renix distributor indexing from the site.
http://cruiser54.com/?p=68
#10
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I want to further add this possibility........
He states he had to 'splice' in the CPS.
Some 96s from what I understand are bastards........1/2 are OBD1 and 1/2 are OBDIIs........depending on the break in production.
Why was he splicing???????????????
Possible II to I CPS???
He needs to figure out what he has and what he has done.
He states he had to 'splice' in the CPS.
Some 96s from what I understand are bastards........1/2 are OBD1 and 1/2 are OBDIIs........depending on the break in production.
Why was he splicing???????????????
Possible II to I CPS???
He needs to figure out what he has and what he has done.
#11
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
There was a change in CPS' in'96.
If the OP had round pins in his CPS connector it was an OBD I style connector, CPS part number 56026921.
If he had flat pins in his CPS connector it was an OBD II style connector, CPS part number 56027865.
You can go to Rockauto and search these part numbers and you can see the difference in pins. The CPS itself didn't change, only the connector pins.
As a side bar, early production '97 XJ's used the '96 part number CPS 56027865, and later production '97's used CPS part number 56027866AB, which had a shorter pigtail than the '96 CPS. Early production '97 owners sometimes get pimped on this because their CPS body harness connector won't reach the CPS pigtail connector, only because they went by the part number out of the '97 parts catalog and installed a part number 866AB CPS.
Clear as mud, but keep it in mind the next time a '97 owner makes a post crying "PLEASE HELP", my CPS won't reach. LOL
If the OP had round pins in his CPS connector it was an OBD I style connector, CPS part number 56026921.
If he had flat pins in his CPS connector it was an OBD II style connector, CPS part number 56027865.
You can go to Rockauto and search these part numbers and you can see the difference in pins. The CPS itself didn't change, only the connector pins.
As a side bar, early production '97 XJ's used the '96 part number CPS 56027865, and later production '97's used CPS part number 56027866AB, which had a shorter pigtail than the '96 CPS. Early production '97 owners sometimes get pimped on this because their CPS body harness connector won't reach the CPS pigtail connector, only because they went by the part number out of the '97 parts catalog and installed a part number 866AB CPS.
Clear as mud, but keep it in mind the next time a '97 owner makes a post crying "PLEASE HELP", my CPS won't reach. LOL
#12
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Bakerxj,
After November 1994 the distributor internals were basically the same. The pics below are of a '99 installation so it should match your '96 distributor.
Generally, you would get a CHECK ENGINE light on if the PCM detected a monitored fault. Does the bulb work?
The PCM does not monitor if the spark plug wires were hooked up wrong, if the timing chain was improperly installed (out of time), or if the distributor was improperly installed.
If you are confident that the timing chain was properly installed I suggest you double check the spark plug wiring installation. Firing order 153624.
.
.
Next, check the distributor timing as follows:
Remove #1 spark plug, have a helper hold their thumb over the spark plug hole, turn the crankshaft until pressure is felt in the plug hole (coming up on TDC compression.
Stop.
Remove the distributor cap, rotor, and cam position sensor, then reinstall the rotor.
Bump the crank until the timing slot on the crankshaft damper aligns with the zero mark on the timing chain cover timing mark (see pic).
The rotor should be pointing just past the #1 plug terminal on the cap (see pic - modified cap installed). If pointing at/near #1, a 3/16" pin punch should be able to cleanly pass through the alignment hole in the plastic ring in the distributor and down through the alignment hole in the distributor body. (see pic).
If it does, the distributor is timed properly. If not, it needs to be removed and reinstalled with the pin punch still installed.
Pics:
Damper aligned with zero timing mark:
Alignment hole in the distributor (reference):
Rotor pointing just past #1 with pin punch installed:
After November 1994 the distributor internals were basically the same. The pics below are of a '99 installation so it should match your '96 distributor.
Generally, you would get a CHECK ENGINE light on if the PCM detected a monitored fault. Does the bulb work?
The PCM does not monitor if the spark plug wires were hooked up wrong, if the timing chain was improperly installed (out of time), or if the distributor was improperly installed.
If you are confident that the timing chain was properly installed I suggest you double check the spark plug wiring installation. Firing order 153624.
.
.
Next, check the distributor timing as follows:
Remove #1 spark plug, have a helper hold their thumb over the spark plug hole, turn the crankshaft until pressure is felt in the plug hole (coming up on TDC compression.
Stop.
Remove the distributor cap, rotor, and cam position sensor, then reinstall the rotor.
Bump the crank until the timing slot on the crankshaft damper aligns with the zero mark on the timing chain cover timing mark (see pic).
The rotor should be pointing just past the #1 plug terminal on the cap (see pic - modified cap installed). If pointing at/near #1, a 3/16" pin punch should be able to cleanly pass through the alignment hole in the plastic ring in the distributor and down through the alignment hole in the distributor body. (see pic).
If it does, the distributor is timed properly. If not, it needs to be removed and reinstalled with the pin punch still installed.
Pics:
Damper aligned with zero timing mark:
Alignment hole in the distributor (reference):
Rotor pointing just past #1 with pin punch installed:
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