Are there any? Lol I've got the pan loose, but it's not wanting to drop past the axel. And the track bar seems to be in the way :/ any wise words of advice?

 

Removing oil pan? Jack the front up by the body till the front axle droops and that should give you room.
And what year you working on? There are 2 types of rear main seals.
2 piece seal requires dropping pan.
1 piece seal tranny has to be pulled off the engine.

 

4.0 1 pc ?

 

Right or wrong...Here's what I did.


1. Jacked front end up to 20" off the ground. Placed jack stands under the frame rail(s),

2. Removed both front wheel assemblies,

3. Removed the starter,

4. Disconnected the exhaust at the down pipe,

5. Unhooked the tranny cooler lines from its support clips (not disconnected from the tranny or radiator),

6. Removed the Steering Dampener at the Drag Link. I used a puller to pop it loose. Moved the Steering Dampener down out of the way,

7. Removed the Track Bar at the axle housing end. This it tricky; if you don't take the time to do it right you'll ruin the track bar bolt and possibly the flag nut, and elongate the bolt hole in the axle fitting.

7a. I got a $20 ratcheting cargo strap from lowes. Attached the hook end (away from the ratchet) to the oval hole in the left fender well structure outside surface and the ratchet end hook to the passenger side steering knuckle. Placing the ratchet device so I could get to it easly from the bottom,

7b. Cranked the ratchet until the strap was very tight, then tightened it some more (as far as I could). Removed the attach bolt from the attach point on the axle and dropped the Tack Bar down. Note: If the bolt looks like its not perfectly lined up with the hole in the attach point on the axle after turning the bolt out some, have a helper sit down next to the Heep and push on the ratchet handle with his foot until pressure is taken off the bolt.

8. Pan slid right out.

9. Reversed procedure when installing the oil pan, with the helper pushing on the ratchet handle with his foot until the bolt hole in the axle attach structure and Track Bar bushing was lined up, then installed the bolt.

Worked pretty slick for me but I've read where others have just disconnected the front shock absorbers to let the front suspension drop enough to clear the pan. The FSM says to jack the engine up...NFW! To each his own however.

 

My dad suggested to jack the engine. I lifted one side of the body with a jack and it came right out thankfully without having to remove anything. Thank you so much guys I really appreciate it

 

I removed front wheels and let axle droop down with body supported with jack stands. Removed track bar from upper mount. Pan slid right out.

 

What about this guys? Wrong seal? The bigger one is the bottom half of the real main seal

 

thats the rear main in the bag, but the seal you have next to it looks like it just came from the back of the oil pan. did you take the bridge and rear bearing cap off?

 

Been tryin to for the past hour. I completely forgot about that seal for the oil pan lol

 

Got it

 

Jack up Jeep and place stands on frame, remove starter, inspection cover, drop drag link and tracbar. If doesn't have a lift remove tires and shocks don't matter which ever is easier for you. Remove all bolt keeping two/four bolts in to hold up pan, either the second front and rears one or middle bolts. Loosen up bolt and tap side of pan near the flange with dead blow hammer and possible razor blade if gives you problems with dead blow again. Hold up pan remove rest of bolts and hold over tranny lines anand drop pan. Scrape gasket if cork off block and rear main cap, removing cap and cleaning throughly. With cap off remove old seal with small punch tap old seal in block on the wire, once out enough you can pull the rest out with needle nose pliers making sure to follow the seal along the crank making sure not to nick the crank.

Line seal with clean oil or silicone to help slide in you can use the shoe horn to help ( I've never used it) pressure on the seal along crank helps too. Dab of rtv on one side of the seal end helps prevent leaks or use Indian head compound along the seal same way and caps works too. Tighten cap to spec dab rtv on cap to block and timing cover to block. Can use bolts to hold new gasket in place or some plastic gasket holders, that I've seen on here too that seem to work pretty good. Once pan is sitting where you want it start bolts hand tight just to hold up in place, tighten to spec and bolt everything back on and hope you did it right.

I've done it this way four times and have two more that I need to do. Had no leaks expect the first tine but was user error bent pan flange and leaked worse then before redid it again with new pan and no leaks.