when reassembling the rear main bearing cap, should there be oil on the bearing surface and underneath it between the cap and bearing, or should it be completely dry?

 

Dry between the bearing and rod (clean with brake clean and make sure there is no lint leftover. Wiping it with your finger works good). Assembly lube between bearing and crank. And dont listen to bignuge. It's not going to blow up. It would have already if there was an issue.

 

thanks. Should the bearing cap bolts be dry or have oil on them?

 

At a minimum, put engine oil on them. If you have actual grease (specific for bolt threads. I normally use grease from ARP) I would use that. TQ values change for both.

 

what would the torque specs be with oil on them ? Still 80 foot pounds?

 

There are pobably 645,284,257 youtube videos on how to assemble an engine with proper pre-lubrication, where to lube, how to lube, what to lube with, and how to prepare the motor prior to lube. Its all the same, you will just have different torque specs from a 350, diesel, or whatever else is in the video you choose to watch... But obviously its best to find specific info for the motor your working on so you know about lubing which bolts and how much torque they need.... with or without lube.... with or without luuuuube!!!!! I cant liiive, with oooor withooouuut luuube... Hahahahaha sorry I had to do it. (my caffeine is kicking in)

 

I would probably do 85 with engine oil. Keep it at 80 if you get the correct lube. Also do it in steps. First pass do 40, second do 80-85.

 

do I need to lube the bearing bolts and bearings that I loosened but didnt remove?

 

Are you working on this project as we speak? Or are you gathering info for later?
I would be watching YT videos for stuff like this to be prepared.... but that's just me. I gather info and learn as much as I can (for weeks sometimes) before I start big projects, whether its on one of my vehicles, on the lawnmower, in the house, or whatever.

 

Wouldnt be a bad idea to lube all the other bolts if you took them loose. Just do one at a time so the rod cap doesnt fall off. If you havent had any of the other rod caps off, dont worry about putting anything on the bearings.

 

Nice pics. I'm going to say I think you are OK so far. If you do dress up around that chip later be sure not to have any filings or anything left in there.

Did you try the other side, and are you using the right punch? I'm wondering if a new "nail set" punch with the cavity in the end for a finish nail might be a thought. And hold it with little vice grips or firmly with pliers of Chanel locks. You got to be on the metal (part of the seal), and give it a good shot.

 

I'm doing it now and still cant get the upper seal out

 

Can you throw up a pic of the situation?

 

The upper seal can be a bit of a pain to get out. There is a strip of metal that runs through the seal. If you have a small punch, you can place it on the metal part and tap it out a bit. Once the seal pops out the other side a bit, its pretty easy to slide it out the rest of the way. Just be careful to not let the punch touch the crank. If it does, you may leave an imprint in it that will cause a lot bigger of problems.

 

thanks. Working on that nothat what is the correct method for lubricating the bottom half and top half of the seal when installing it?