I uploaded a picture there

 

I don't plan on it, so take that as you will. I "finished" the RMS today but still have to retorque the caps and do the oil pan gasket.

 

that makes 1 of us. I still cant get the upper seal out

 

I'm trying to decipher your picture.

1. The area in red--Is the crank shifted toward the rear of the vehicle? It appears as if it is.
2. Blue--Is this where the block is chipped?
3. Black--Is the journal scratched?

 

the blue circle you made is where the rear main is. I chipped on side to that, right of the blue circle, circle is running through it partially. Journal isn't scratches, and I'm not sure why you mean shifted toward the rear of the vehicle. I think that's just the angle from the picture

 

My upper seal is stuck. I've loosened 2 more bearing caps, but I cant loosen anymore because my suspension and axle are in the way. I dont have the proper tools or knowledge to remove suspension. What are my options now? Why would I need to loosen more bearing caps while other people don't?

Is it possible my jeep isn't lifted high enough and the suspension is pressing up on the crank making it press on the rear main seal?

 

Is the chip in the upper right corner?

 

That's on its way to being scored. That's the bearing. That's what gets replaced. Inspect your crankshaft carefully. If it's scored, the job just got a lot bigger.

 

Those bearing shells are steel with a thin layer of copper on them, then they are plated with lead babbit. It looks like there is copper showing on that insert. I'd say the bearings are near the end of their life and should be replaced ASAP. That line in the surface was made by a hard particle that got dragged around on the crankshaft and making that line. It is a score, but not that bad unless the crank shows the same line. Check the rod bearings. They probably look much the same. The size is marked on the back of the insert shell.

On the engine I just pulled out of my WJ, I had a whispering rod knock when it was cold that disappeared when warm. This is a picture of the rod bearing on the one that was knocking.

 

Yeap I would agree that even though you may not be able to feel a score with your finger nail, something caused that line in the bearing i.e. another piece of metal. Best bet is to replace them all, not just the bad one, along with the rod bearings. Replacing one would be like only replacing 1 pad in a set of brake pads... or something like that.

 

For future reference, using a sharp metal tool on a part of your engine that requires very tight specifications and a nice clean mating surface isn't exactly the best course of action. I know its not on the bearing surface or bearing journal or anything, but better safe than sorry. A hard plastic or rubber hammer would do the trick rather than a chisel. Or hammer and some kind of hard plastic tool....
But I would think that when you put the seal in and use ample red silicone to install (if that's how these are done), it will be ok since its on the outer edge...

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but will a spot weld help fix that? Fill in the void and then smooth it out........... But then again having to smooth it out with sanding could also cause it to be an uneven surface... I would be worried that there is an unseen crack and not just a chip. You could have the block magnetically checked. Cover everything except that small area and put some iron shavings/powder on that area then put a strong magnet on it. If there is a crack, the iron shavings will congregate to the crack if there is one. Or buy the red spray paint stuff used for finding cracks. Clean the surface super good then spray and wipe, red color will have seeped into the crack. But knock on wood there is no crack.

 

I am certainly not a mechanic or engine guy but from my point of view the worst that I see happening is a small oil leak, my vote is to put some RTV on it and forget about it. I’m convinced that many people have done this or worse doing the same job.


-Eric

 

If what I'm seeing is what you are talking about I believe when you get to the point of putting the bearing cap back on and you put some RTV where the upper and lower seal meet it will seal it fine.

 

Some seals are more cooked in than others. If your tires aren't touching the ground then your suspension isn't pressing anything. You should be able to loosen all bearing caps. I had to undo the shock nuts from the engine bay, unbolt sway bar(bushings), and then put a scissor jack in between the axle and the frame to push the axle down further. I can get pictures of the scissor jack situation if you need.

Google "rear main seal stuck cherokee forum" and read up on how others have overcome it. You're not the first.
Once you knock it loose it will move out but it's cooked in right now.

 

Red High Temp RTV, and let it sit for a few minutes, not so its dry, but still tacky and is actually setting up. This will give it a bit more sealing effect since its slightly rubberized and not just completely tacky. I've used this technique many times. Trans pans, differential covers, oil pans, etc and had no issues. It creates a gasket effect along with the adhesive properties. Of course it will probably work just by slapping the RTV on there and putting it back together, but I feel like giving it a few minutes to get rubbery, yet still tacky, helps. Who knows......