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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Some seals are more cooked in than others. If your tires aren't touching the ground then your suspension isn't pressing anything. You should be able to loosen all bearing caps. I had to undo the shock nuts from the engine bay, unbolt sway bar(bushings), and then put a scissor jack in between the axle and the frame to push the axle down further. I can get pictures of the scissor jack situation if you need.
Google "rear main seal stuck cherokee forum" and read up on how others have overcome it. You're not the first.
Once you knock it loose it will move out but it's cooked in right now.
Those bearing shells are steel with a thin layer of copper on them, then they are plated with lead babbit. It looks like there is copper showing on that insert. I'd say the bearings are near the end of their life and should be replaced ASAP. That line in the surface was made by a hard particle that got dragged around on the crankshaft and making that line. It is a score, but not that bad unless the crank shows the same line. Check the rod bearings. They probably look much the same. The size is marked on the back of the insert shell.
On the engine I just pulled out of my WJ, I had a whispering rod knock when it was cold that disappeared when warm. This is a picture of the rod bearing on the one that was knocking.
1/2 breaker bar, 21mm deep socket (not the correct size but it works) and a long extension on some of them. If you plan on removing them or even just loosening them be careful not to drop and crack them.
I would just reuse the old bearing. That one score is not going to hurt anything or spread. As other have said, something went through it. Its gone by now. This is not a 1000hp race car we are talking about.
Now if your bearings looked like Daves..... thats a different story.
Um, excuse me, but my XJ is close to 1,000HP.... I have put several stickers on the back window from parts like K&N, Flowmaster, MSD, Accel, Bilstein, Quaker State and Peak, so its getting up there in the HP's...
I'd say it's your call if you wanna reuse or replace.... Like 5-Speed said, there's a good chance the debris that caused that line is gone from oil changes, but it also could have happened last week... or 15 years ago...
1/2 breaker bar, 21mm deep socket (not the correct size but it works) and a long extension on some of them. If you plan on removing them or even just loosening them be careful not to drop and crack them.
I used a torque wrench to loosen my bearing caps. The limit of toque on my wrench is 80 foot pounds. Did I screw up my torque wrench?
Um, excuse me, but my XJ is close to 1,000HP.... I have put several stickers on the back window from parts like K&N, Flowmaster, MSD, Accel, Bilstein, Quaker State and Peak, so its getting up there in the HP's...
I'd say it's your call if you wanna reuse or replace.... Like 5-Speed said, there's a good chance the debris that caused that line is gone from oil changes, but it also could have happened last week... or 15 years ago...
Sorry man. Hope there was no offense taken. I couldnt see all those HP stickers from your avatar picture (maybe it was stock back then). I would expect that with a 1000hp, you wouldnt be able to see out any of your windows!
Your suspension never “pushes” on the crank, and has absolutely nothing to do with getting the rear main seal out.
The upper seal can be stuck, you just have to work it patiently with a punch.
Whatever you do DO NOT take all the bearing caps off!
Not trying to be a jerk, but you reall should have a more mechanical friend help you with this, for your sake and your XJ’s sake.
No offense taken. At this point I'm ready to bring it to a shop. Called for a lot more work than was initially thought. Oil pan drain hole is stripped...rear main bearing cap was stuck on there...main upper isn't budging. Cant find a brass punch the size to fit in that hole. This is day 4.
Cant find a brass punch the size to fit in that hole.
Get a slightly oversized wooden dowel, trim it so it barely matches the seal pattern and wail on it. It won't hurt anything. Your punches are just flaring the seal to make it stucker.
