http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/kdt492.html

This one says it does,
my rear main started last week so I guess I'll get to find out for sure myself too.

I've always loosened all the other main caps to lighten pressure on the seal before trying to pull one out.

 

Thanks, good to know. -- Old timer lol

 

Nope. never checked to see if it was the valve cover. Watch that be it.... 0.o the p.o said there was nothing wring with it but when I looked at it there was oil
All over the under side. So I the next day they"Said" they took it to geralds and they told em it was the rm. But i was so
Excited to find a jeep I just went ahead and bought it.

 

You know your fixing a rear main seal when...

 

Don't become a casualty.
Those jacks are dangerous and only made for changing tires.
Get that thing on some jack stands.
Your way to dirty for such a minor job. :lol

 

^^ couldn't find a shop towel? lol jk.
dirty job, but look at the $$ you're saving and the learning
experience.

 

Guess that is kinda stupid. And minor?? Lol

 

how would you not get that dirty doing a rear main on a 20 year old jeep thats been leaking oil?

 

: haha that's what I was thinking

 

You work on some of the stuff I work on, and everything I do to my XJ is minor.
I work on everything around here from the ATV's to Bikes, Scooters, Vans, trucks and cars. I use to do my own work on the Semi trucks too.

 

I work on vans, trucks, atv's, bikes and my jeep yet every thing I do to my jeep that should be and hour job, takes all day. 2hours= 3days, 3hours= 1week, so on. And thats just the way it is...

 

I'd give my big toe to have a week to work on a jeep ha! If I have a weeklong job I have to cram it into a couple hours or just not sleep!

 

Exactly. I'm working on a week and a half now of a 3-4 hour rear main seal repair...

 

That's too bad man. You'll have to lift it and make life a lot easier ha like I said I had mine out and in, in about 2 hours. Wasn't too bad. But yu gotta love it!

 

Don't fret...it took me a week to do mine,only because it was my first time doing a rms.I was overly careful ( my XJ has 4.5 inches of lift,so the oil pan removal and install wasn't an issue).I did get pretty frustrated when the upper portion of the seal wouldn't come out. I was using a brass probe used for metal detecting and kept mushrooming the tip. Used a regular punch and it came right out. I don't know about OEM seals,but the seal I installed,had a circular area that I'm betting is meant as a guide on where to put your punch as you drive the old seal out. Even though you drained your oil prior to oil pan removal,you WILL get drips of oil randomly. Ya never know when it will happen. You'll get oil in your hair,in your eyes if your not wearing safety glasses,even in your nose and in your mouth if you don't keep it closed while under there.

My pan was STUCK upon disassembly,and I had to pry and pry. Finally got it to break free. Before I installed the new gasket,I did a test fit of the pan,found out the flanges needed straightening,which I did by bolting the pan back in,and going along the bent flanges with a drift and a hammer. It still leaked when I started it up,so I took a short piece of steel,drilled holes in it in the bolt pattern of the oil pan,and bolted it up with the pan bolts, which helped get a good straight tight seal. The rubber one piece gasket which is recommended,has metal inserts which I feel help to keep from overtightening the pan bolts.

Be careful when installing the upper portion of the RMS. Use either the shoehorn provided(stick the skinny end in the hole) and lube the seal with soap. Follow the curvature of the crank as you feed the seal in. It can be stubborn going in but just be patient.Do not take the shoehorn out until the seal is all the way in. If you do,you run the risk of gouging the back of the seal against the edge of the hole your feeding the seal into,and it won't be any good,its guaranteed to leak. So maybe buy 2 rear main seals in case you screw up the first one. The seal goes in with the groove towards the engine,make sure you note this or else you'll get to do it all over again.

Do not forget to install the lower portion of the seal in the bearing cap. Put some oil on the bearing before you put the rear main bearing cap back in. Don't forget to install the main bearing cap either. Im willing to bet there have been some that have been so focused on R&R of the upper portion of the seal,that they either forgot to reinstall the lower seal into the bearing cap,or forgot to install the bearing cap all together prior to installing the oil pan.

If you loosen any other main caps,check and recheck them several times. Torque them to 80 ft lbs.

I did this whole operation with 0 air tools which might also be why it took me longer than normal.