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Rear main seal

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Old Nov 24, 2011 | 09:39 PM
  #136  
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I concur, that's a bad idea. Just keep at it with a punch and a hammer. MAKE SURE the punch is on the metal part and hit one side and then the other. The last one I did was the hardest I've ever had too (strange that a 99 was worse than a 91 and 92) and I was getting a little panicky, but just kept hitting one side and then the other and eventually it budged.
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 06:27 AM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by 4Doors
I concur, that's a bad idea. Just keep at it with a punch and a hammer. MAKE SURE the punch is on the metal part and hit one side and then the other. The last one I did was the hardest I've ever had too (strange that a 99 was worse than a 91 and 92) and I was getting a little panicky, but just kept hitting one side and then the other and eventually it budged.
X2 on the plier idea , if your on the metal, your ok. You may have to go ahead and bring it once or twice when u hit it. stay close on it but hit it good and solid
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 06:36 AM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by 4Doors
I concur, that's a bad idea. Just keep at it with a punch and a hammer. MAKE SURE the punch is on the metal part and hit one side and then the other. The last one I did was the hardest I've ever had too (strange that a 99 was worse than a 91 and 92) and I was getting a little panicky, but just kept hitting one side and then the other and eventually it budged.
Clue me in on a bad idea? Couldn't hurt to get ahold of it and pull it unstead of risking scratching it, banging around with a punch.
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 11:16 AM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by JamDeeper
Clue me in on a bad idea? Couldn't hurt to get ahold of it and pull it unstead of risking scratching it, banging around with a punch.
Tell me how you're going to get pliers on the upper seal without touching the block or crank when it's still inside the block. Even needle nose pliers, in my opinion, are going to touch. If you have some that are so small that they can grip it without touching, I have a hard time imagining that they will actually grip the upper seal when it's still stuck in place. Sometimes you just gotta put in the grunt work and keep at it till it pops loose, which it will.

On one of mine I loosened a couple of the main bearing caps which will drop the crank ever so slightly and give a little more space.
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 11:16 AM
  #140  
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If it was as easy as just grabbing it with a pair of pliers,wouldn't we all do it that way. Once it starts moving out THEN you can grab it with pliers,until then,in my experience,there's just no room or way to grab the upper rear main seal.
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Old Nov 25, 2011 | 04:35 PM
  #141  
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Cheers. I guess I was thinking if he'd been hitting on it all this time it may have moved a slight bit to grab it. Dropping the crank could help too.
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 07:29 PM
  #142  
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Well? u get it?
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 07:31 PM
  #143  
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Originally Posted by dbcox
Well? u get it?
Nope. No time yet... Life is so jam packed...
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 12:42 PM
  #144  
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My friends, it is done!!!
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 01:09 PM
  #145  
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Old seal is out!!! Do I need/ can I put sealer or rubber cement stuff on the ends of the new seals??
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 01:35 PM
  #146  
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Originally Posted by zombie jeep101
Old seal is out!!! Do I need/ can I put sealer or rubber cement stuff on the ends of the new seals??
NOOOOOO!!! Actually yes, you do use something, but not rubber cement! Use just a VERY SMALL AMOUNT of RTV when putting it back together. This is important and I regret that I didn't capture it in my video, but it is important that you just put a dab on the ends of the lower seal where it will contact the ends of the upper seal. If you put too much so that it squishes out into the metal cap, you will get a leak. It may not leak much, but it will leak. Your instincts will tell you to use more than you need because it's such a small amount that you're putting on, but you just need that drop to join the upper and lower halves together, that's it.
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 02:45 PM
  #147  
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Originally Posted by 4Doors
NOOOOOO!!! Actually yes, you do use something, but not rubber cement! Use just a VERY SMALL AMOUNT of RTV when putting it back together. This is important and I regret that I didn't capture it in my video, but it is important that you just put a dab on the ends of the lower seal where it will contact the ends of the upper seal. If you put too much so that it squishes out into the metal cap, you will get a leak. It may not leak much, but it will leak. Your instincts will tell you to use more than you need because it's such a small amount that you're putting on, but you just need that drop to join the upper and lower halves together, that's it.
Yeah rtv. Didn't know what it was called. Ok thanks man
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 09:19 AM
  #148  
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Originally Posted by 4Doors
If you put too much so that it squishes out into the metal cap, you will get a leak. It may not leak much, but it will leak.
Just curious why that is??
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 12:07 PM
  #149  
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I think it's 80 ft/lbs that you torque those bolts to, so metal on metal is all you need. Trust me here, I did it wrong once and got to enjoy doing it again, and that was the only thing I did differently the second time and it sealed it.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 12:52 PM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by 4Doors
I think it's 80 ft/lbs that you torque those bolts to, so metal on metal is all you need. Trust me here, I did it wrong once and got to enjoy doing it again, and that was the only thing I did differently the second time and it sealed it.
Nice. Well I put a little dab on there already like you said... Hope it doesn't leak cuz I am NOT doing this again!
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