Rear leaf spring eye bolt issues
02-01-2017, 12:30 AM
#1
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Rear leaf spring eye bolt issues
Alright so im pretty sure the bolt is seized to the sleeve, would i be able to drill out the bolt? I am installing 2" shackles so I have a new bolt. Any other ideas??
02-01-2017, 12:39 AM
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
The front of the leafs or rear of the leafs? Im assuming rear if you're just installing shackles.
Those bolts are notorious for getting stuck, many times breaking off the welded nut inside the unibody. Your best bet it to spray some penetrating oil on it a couple times a day for the next couple days and let it soak in.
They are extremely stubborn, you'll definitely need a breaker bar. You could drill it out but you still have to worry about getting the threaded portion out of the body.
Those bolts are notorious for getting stuck, many times breaking off the welded nut inside the unibody. Your best bet it to spray some penetrating oil on it a couple times a day for the next couple days and let it soak in.
They are extremely stubborn, you'll definitely need a breaker bar. You could drill it out but you still have to worry about getting the threaded portion out of the body.
02-01-2017, 04:46 AM
#3
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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Engine: 4.0
Lots of posts here on that. Heat the nut, if that doesn't work, get to work with a grinder and cut the spring away.
You really don't want to break that nut loose.
As for drilling it out.... if you have a high-quality super-duty 1/2" drill you could try it. You'll burn up most normal drills before you get that big thing drilled out.
Something I have thought about, but have not yet tried, is drilling into the spring down just barely into the bolt, then tapping the hole to accept a zerk fitting. Then put some penetrating oil in a grease gun and force it in there. Let soak. Repeat as needed until the penetrating oil starts seeping out the ends, copiously. Might just be easier than grinding the spring out.
You really don't want to break that nut loose.
As for drilling it out.... if you have a high-quality super-duty 1/2" drill you could try it. You'll burn up most normal drills before you get that big thing drilled out.
Something I have thought about, but have not yet tried, is drilling into the spring down just barely into the bolt, then tapping the hole to accept a zerk fitting. Then put some penetrating oil in a grease gun and force it in there. Let soak. Repeat as needed until the penetrating oil starts seeping out the ends, copiously. Might just be easier than grinding the spring out.
02-01-2017, 07:08 AM
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
If you are replacing the springs, don't worry about the sleeve being stuck to it. Use a big breaker bar after soaking it with Kroil penetrating oil. I replaced the rear springs on my 94 Cherokee. Had to do same thing. 1/2 in impact would not turn the bolts. After soaking them for 2 nights, going out there and spraying it down before dinner. Then I used the long 1/2 in. breaker bar method and although they creaked a lot they came out.
You will need new rubber bushing assemblies 4ea. and you will have to get the front ones pressed in to the new springs. They will have new sleeves in them.
Good luck!
You will need new rubber bushing assemblies 4ea. and you will have to get the front ones pressed in to the new springs. They will have new sleeves in them.
Good luck!
02-01-2017, 08:26 AM
#6
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I agree with the new bushings. Don't think anyone would dream of doing this job and not changing them. They don't have to be pressed in though. I put mine on a block of wood and a small block on top ad hammered tapped them in. Wasn't hard.
As far as getting the bolt out just cut the spring off. Be careful. It's udder pressure and will jump at you. A LOT of pressure. I systematically cut away the steel. Used a Sawzall to trim off the rubber bushing, then grabbed the steel bushing inside with a pipe wrench. The leverage with the pipe wrench and a 3 foot pipe helped break free the bolt so it turned out of the nut. Then I cut the bolt and pulled it out. Upon inspection after, with Michigan road salt, the bolt and the sleeve had permanently become one.
As far as getting the bolt out just cut the spring off. Be careful. It's udder pressure and will jump at you. A LOT of pressure. I systematically cut away the steel. Used a Sawzall to trim off the rubber bushing, then grabbed the steel bushing inside with a pipe wrench. The leverage with the pipe wrench and a 3 foot pipe helped break free the bolt so it turned out of the nut. Then I cut the bolt and pulled it out. Upon inspection after, with Michigan road salt, the bolt and the sleeve had permanently become one.
02-01-2017, 08:28 AM
#7
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Make sure you are turning the pipe wrench the correct direction. Loosening it, not tightening. You are trying to loosen the bolt this way. If the sleeve breaks free of the bolt, douse it with penetrating oil and use some heat. At least you won't light the bushings on fire, as they will be gone.
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02-01-2017, 09:06 AM
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The front of the leafs or rear of the leafs? Im assuming rear if you're just installing shackles.
Those bolts are notorious for getting stuck, many times breaking off the welded nut inside the unibody. Your best bet it to spray some penetrating oil on it a couple times a day for the next couple days and let it soak in.
They are extremely stubborn, you'll definitely need a breaker bar. You could drill it out but you still have to worry about getting the threaded portion out of the body.
Those bolts are notorious for getting stuck, many times breaking off the welded nut inside the unibody. Your best bet it to spray some penetrating oil on it a couple times a day for the next couple days and let it soak in.
They are extremely stubborn, you'll definitely need a breaker bar. You could drill it out but you still have to worry about getting the threaded portion out of the body.
02-01-2017, 09:10 AM
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 6 cylinder
caseyheck801 is right. The nut is welded on the protruding bracket off the frame rail.
If the nut spins, you could cut away part of the bracket just enough to heat the nut or get a wrench in there.
Hopefully casey will have pictures of this, it'll be worth a thousand words.
If the nut spins, you could cut away part of the bracket just enough to heat the nut or get a wrench in there.
Hopefully casey will have pictures of this, it'll be worth a thousand words.
02-01-2017, 10:00 AM
#10
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The front has a nut. That's the hard one.
The back can dam near be just cut out completely.
Get a metabo.
It'll be invaluable in your working.
Wear SAFETY GOGGLES!
The back can dam near be just cut out completely.
Get a metabo.
It'll be invaluable in your working.
Wear SAFETY GOGGLES!
02-01-2017, 10:34 AM
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what the hell is a metabo😂 which bolt are you talking about on the rear? I already got the one out of the body. I'm just stuck on the eye bolt.
02-01-2017, 10:35 AM
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
As far as the Nut being welded to the frame, I wouldn't worry about that either. If it breaks you can always buy a new self locking nut. bolt it on and drive to a welding shop. Have them weld it in place.
If you have the spring off already have it pressed out of the sleeve, thru the eye or curled end.
Can always take it to a machine shop, maybe they can get it out for you?
If you have the spring off already have it pressed out of the sleeve, thru the eye or curled end.
Can always take it to a machine shop, maybe they can get it out for you?
Last edited by Roadking_; 02-01-2017 at 10:38 AM.
02-01-2017, 10:37 AM
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I agree with the new bushings. Don't think anyone would dream of doing this job and not changing them. They don't have to be pressed in though. I put mine on a block of wood and a small block on top ad hammered tapped them in. Wasn't hard.
As far as getting the bolt out just cut the spring off. Be careful. It's udder pressure and will jump at you. A LOT of pressure. I systematically cut away the steel. Used a Sawzall to trim off the rubber bushing, then grabbed the steel bushing inside with a pipe wrench. The leverage with the pipe wrench and a 3 foot pipe helped break free the bolt so it turned out of the nut. Then I cut the bolt and pulled it out. Upon inspection after, with Michigan road salt, the bolt and the sleeve had permanently become one.
As far as getting the bolt out just cut the spring off. Be careful. It's udder pressure and will jump at you. A LOT of pressure. I systematically cut away the steel. Used a Sawzall to trim off the rubber bushing, then grabbed the steel bushing inside with a pipe wrench. The leverage with the pipe wrench and a 3 foot pipe helped break free the bolt so it turned out of the nut. Then I cut the bolt and pulled it out. Upon inspection after, with Michigan road salt, the bolt and the sleeve had permanently become one.
02-01-2017, 10:45 AM
#15
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
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Check out the thread in my signature. Lots of valuable information in there regarding getting bolts out of the leaf springs. Heat will be a friend. And air tools if you have access. These things make it easier but it's not impossible to do it without them. You can use a map gas torch from home depot or something similar.