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Rear Diff Verification

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Old Jan 31, 2015 | 11:59 AM
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Default Rear Diff Verification

Hi all,

I'm struggling a little bit with identifying my rear diff. I have a 2000 XJ Sport. I think I either have a D35 or Chry 8.25. The diff identification images I've researched seem to show the D35 and 8.25 look very similar; the bolt pattern being the same. The only thing I see indicating a 8.25 is a small flat extension of the gear housing hanging below the diff cover. If you would look at my image and respond with your expert advise I would appreciate it very much.


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Old Jan 31, 2015 | 12:05 PM
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Its an 8.25. Flat bottom.
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Old Jan 31, 2015 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by md21722
Its an 8.25. Flat bottom.
Yep, and get a build sheet. If it's stock it will tell you all kinds of stuff.
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Old Jan 31, 2015 | 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by md21722
Its an 8.25. Flat bottom.


Yes. The flat casting extension underneath gives it away as a 8.25".
You can also measure the axle tubes. They are 3" diameter on the 8.25, and slightly over 2.5" on the D35.
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Old Jan 31, 2015 | 12:45 PM
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Sweet, that's what I was hoping. So now I have to decide on whether to rebuild and add a locker, or pony up for a G2 Dana 60, Currie, etc. Think I'm going to run 33s on 15x10. Don't think I'm going to 35s. But educating as I go... First Jeep I've owned.

Thanks guys
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Old Jan 31, 2015 | 01:04 PM
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also just so that you know they put the 8.25 in unless you have abs then it is the 35 because the 8.25 doesnt come with abs
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Old Jan 31, 2015 | 01:21 PM
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Good to know, No ABS on this one...
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Old Jan 31, 2015 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by thatguy2000xj
also just so that you know they put the 8.25 in unless you have abs then it is the 35 because the 8.25 doesnt come with abs
That may apply to earlier years, but by the end of the run, it wasn't always the case. My 2001 came from the factory without ABS but with a D35.
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Old Jan 31, 2015 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by tonydema
Sweet, that's what I was hoping. So now I have to decide on whether to rebuild and add a locker, or pony up for a G2 Dana 60, Currie, etc. Think I'm going to run 33s on 15x10. Don't think I'm going to 35s. But educating as I go... First Jeep I've owned.

Thanks guys

your stock axles are plenty strong for 33s. spend that money beefing up what you have
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Old Feb 1, 2015 | 10:43 AM
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If I could trouble you for one more identification... I started a thread on the Modified section and received a number of comments/suggestions regarding my fron t and rear diffs. I originally planned to swap my D30 for a D44. But what I didn't realize was that there's a LP30 and HP30. Some have suggested that I look for a HP30. So I thought it wise to be sure of what I have. I've googled but can't seem to get any hits on a diff in bolt pattern or cover. So here's a pick.

Thank you


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Old Feb 1, 2015 | 11:01 AM
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Best way to know if it's an LP or HP is by the the rear yoke, if it is on top of the pumpkin then it's an HP, if it's at the bottom..LP. An 8.25 and HP30 can handle 35s, so 33s will be nothing for those axles.
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Old Feb 1, 2015 | 11:01 AM
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You need to take a picture of the back where the yoke is to be sure. Based on the angle of the photo, I'd guess you have a HP 30 but another picture would help.

HP = pinion on the top of the carrier
LP = pinion on the bottom of the carrier
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Old Feb 1, 2015 | 11:31 AM
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I looks like it's on the bottom...

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Old Feb 1, 2015 | 11:55 AM
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That's Low Pinion.
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Old Feb 1, 2015 | 11:59 AM
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Based on the previous posts, that's kinda I thought.

So if I stick to 33's it would not be a poor choice to go through the LP30? I'm doing a TeraFlex 5.5 Inch Extreme-Duty Long Arm Lift Kit and figure now's the time to swap the front diff if I'm going to. The rear is always doable later without a big hassle and added costs.
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