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Rear brakes failed inspection

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Old Oct 13, 2008 | 04:30 PM
  #16  
XJ Stryker's Avatar
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From: Smiths Station, Al
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Originally Posted by TrekkerJmm
My brother being a State Trooper has advantages, the inspector tried 2 times to pass me but both times the brakes failed he said. I have new spring kits and the drums looked good so I didn't cut them. He didn't pull anything and even let me through without checking the lights and blinkers. wheel cylinders seem to be working.

EDIT: My Brother is the trooper not me. Sorry about that. So any other ideas before I get into this job???

How exactly is the guy testing them. When installing new brakes there are lil plastic caps. YOu sometime have to pull the cap and stick a screwdriver in there and adjust the tension of the brakes so that when you press the pedal they will contact the pads. If it is too tight then your brakes will always rub on the drum causing a very noticeable smell and very sluggish preformance.

I plan on doing my rear brakes on my other Jeep this weekend maybe it is time for a write up. Then the Jamaican guy can learn how brakes work on a XJ.
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Old Oct 13, 2008 | 05:10 PM
  #17  
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I look forward to this writeup ..I need to do my rear brakes as well...Been a long time since I redid drum brakes..Last ones I did was a 72 nova and my camaro after that all my cars had disc brakes..
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Old Oct 13, 2008 | 05:23 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by XJ Stryker
How exactly is the guy testing them. When installing new brakes there are lil plastic caps. YOu sometime have to pull the cap and stick a screwdriver in there and adjust the tension of the brakes so that when you press the pedal they will contact the pads. If it is too tight then your brakes will always rub on the drum causing a very noticeable smell and very sluggish performance.

I plan on doing my rear brakes on my other Jeep this weekend maybe it is time for a write up. Then the Jamaican guy can learn how brakes work on a XJ.
OK the "Star" adjustment was done on both sides and there is just enough drag on them. The test was done at Motor Vehicle by driving on 4 long pressure pads then hitting the brakes. The E brake passed just fine but the 2 backs failed I was told. It showed low pressure on both rear brakes on the computer they use while stopping if this helps. I have done many brakes in my time and this is the first time I'm having problems, that is why I asked for some opinions thinking there may have been some defects or "tricks" I needed to know about. Thank you all again for the valuable help...Tj
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Old Oct 13, 2008 | 05:27 PM
  #19  
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If you have low pressure to the rear brakes it could be air in the lines or bad master cylinder as well...just something else to consider..
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Old Oct 13, 2008 | 06:01 PM
  #20  
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I just did mine and i can stop easy but the pedal almost goes to the floor. I only bled them once, starting from the back to the front. Should i continue to bleed them.
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Old Oct 13, 2008 | 06:22 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by tampaviking
I just did mine and i can stop easy but the pedal almost goes to the floor. I only bled them once, starting from the back to the front. Should i continue to bleed them.
Check your fluid and see if the resevoir for the rear brakes is getting low if so then yes you still have air in them somewhere.
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Old Oct 13, 2008 | 08:25 PM
  #22  
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Thanks blue, there was a buttload of air still in the lines.
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Old Oct 13, 2008 | 08:29 PM
  #23  
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how does your brake pedal feel now.
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Old Oct 13, 2008 | 08:57 PM
  #24  
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I assume the front reservoir is for the rear and the back reservoir is for the front? My rear drivers side brakes leak fluid and I am just to lazy to fix it...well plus cash is really tight right now..
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Old Oct 13, 2008 | 09:12 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by okcjeeper
I assume the front reservoir is for the rear and the back reservoir is for the front? My rear drivers side brakes leak fluid and I am just to lazy to fix it...well plus cash is really tight right now..
OKC yes that is the standard configuration for master cylinders. Where is your leaking? Might just need to be tightened a little tighter. Mine was leaking after I replaced a wheel cylinder but after it was tightened a tad more it quit.
Note to all you guys that have never done brake work before.DO NOT GET BRAKE FLUID ON YOUR PAINT. It will ruin your paint job in very short order.
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Old Oct 13, 2008 | 09:17 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by BlueXJ
OKC yes that is the standard configuration for master cylinders. Where is your leaking? Might just need to be tightened a little tighter. Mine was leaking after I replaced a wheel cylinder but after it was tightened a tad more it quit.
Note to all you guys that have never done brake work before.DO NOT GET BRAKE FLUID ON YOUR PAINT. It will ruin your paint job in very short order.
I used to work part time at advance auto parts and we had a guy come in saying that you can clean fogging headlights with brake fluid. I told him not to but he did it anyways and turned out that both his headlights got a bunch of tiny cracks in it. It was funny. That was a big I TOLD YOU SO.
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Old Oct 13, 2008 | 09:23 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by BlueXJ
OKC yes that is the standard configuration for master cylinders. Where is your leaking? Might just need to be tightened a little tighter. Mine was leaking after I replaced a wheel cylinder but after it was tightened a tad more it quit.
Note to all you guys that have never done brake work before.DO NOT GET BRAKE FLUID ON YOUR PAINT. It will ruin your paint job in very short order.
THat's what I was thinking on the reservoir just wanted to make sure...Yeah I knew about no brake fluid on paint and such..Yeah I will get out there and see if something is lose...
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Old Oct 14, 2008 | 07:04 AM
  #28  
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I will bleed them today and re-post my findings...Tj
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