Rear brake drum GUTS!
#1
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Rear brake drum GUTS!
Hey everyone i just got done trying to bleed my brakes, took off the rear left tire, then the brake drum, and now im looking at springs, metal shoes and a canister that is squirting fluid everytime the brake is stepped on, this explains why my brakes dont work. my cameras not working but heres a pic from the internet of what im looking at. how do you get this off? i see the four bolt, but cant get to them because the lug nut bolts are in the way and dont know how to get those off the end of the axle. please help!! also once i get it off should i get the whole thing from junkyard or rebuild the canister thing or what?
#2
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Year: '89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242
You have to take the axles out. That open center hole, is where the axle shaft should be....which means opening the rear diff and disconnecting them from the open diff inside the pumpkin....its really time consuming if youve never done it before...but alot easier than it sounds too.
Last edited by XJs-R-us; 03-31-2010 at 11:08 PM.
#3
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Can i rebuild it without removing it? I just looked up the parts and its cheap enough so can i just put new springs and wheel cylinder on it while its on the axle?(hopefully) let me know thanks
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Year: 1995
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
If you have never done wheel cylinders and brake shoes before, I suggest you have somebody that has done a complete rear brake job help you. Or just pay and have it done. You can really screw things up if you're not sure what you're doing.
#6
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Year: '89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 242
Exactly...
Drum brakes are a TOTAL PAIN, if you dont know what your doing.
If you plan on keeping your XJ for a while? You might want to consider, a Rear Disc Brake Conversion? Its SO much easier in the long run, than messin around all the time with those drums.
#7
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Year: 1989 Limited 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 279 stroker w/ported HO head and LS-1 valves
Brakes are not a good place to start your hobby as a mechanic. Buy a hardware kit, new shoes, a wheel cylinder, have your drums turned, and buy some beer. Call an uncle, brother,dad, cousin, or friend that has done more than one brake job and ask them to show you how. Live to wrench another day
Last edited by gonridnu; 04-01-2010 at 12:08 AM.
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#8
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im trying to sell it so i want to fix it as quick and cheap as possible, but needs to be done right cuz brakes arent a joke, is there any step by step guide to doing it? i cant get it to a shop and its in my garage so im going to try and do it myself.
#9
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Year: '89
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Seriously though...If someone buys it, and they die, because they couldnt stop quick enough, or the brakes malfunctioned, and it comes back on you!
...Im sorry buddy, but youde be up SH**s creek without a damn boat!....screw the paddles!....
So, if you can do it, good.
If you cant, find someone whos willing to help you do it.
#10
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Year: 90
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It's really not that complicated of a process...BUT......
If you don't know how to do rear brakes.. the last thing you should be attempting is the rebuilding of a rear wheel cylinder. They are far too cheap to buy to take the risk of not getting everything back together correctly or the chance of scarring up the piston or cylinder.
If you do find a write-up... make absolutely sure it is specific to your Jeep and axle. They are all very similar, but there are differences in each one.
If you don't know how to do rear brakes.. the last thing you should be attempting is the rebuilding of a rear wheel cylinder. They are far too cheap to buy to take the risk of not getting everything back together correctly or the chance of scarring up the piston or cylinder.
If you do find a write-up... make absolutely sure it is specific to your Jeep and axle. They are all very similar, but there are differences in each one.
#11
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first you have to ask yourself if you can handle doing a job like that.
then if you decide to take on the task, it's really not that difficult, but could be a test on your patience.
then before you start, jack up the whole rear end and support it on jack stands, that way you can take the other wheel and drum off so you can keep referencing to that side.
you don't need to remove any axle shaft to do the job. but getting the brake shoe retainer clips off is a first time challenge. i usually use a set of vise grips on the round retainer clip, push in and turn 1/4 turn to release it, then carefully remove as the spring will want to push it off.
the hardest part would be hanging the hardware and keeping the shoes in place against the wheel cylinder.
take care in removing the wheel cylinder as the rusted hardline may want to twist. use lots of penetrating fluid on the line nut.
here is a quick step by step for replacing the wheel cylinder.
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doity..._cylinders.htm
it is a good idea to have someone who have done this before to assist you for the first time. but just take your time and keep referring to the other side.
then if you decide to take on the task, it's really not that difficult, but could be a test on your patience.
then before you start, jack up the whole rear end and support it on jack stands, that way you can take the other wheel and drum off so you can keep referencing to that side.
you don't need to remove any axle shaft to do the job. but getting the brake shoe retainer clips off is a first time challenge. i usually use a set of vise grips on the round retainer clip, push in and turn 1/4 turn to release it, then carefully remove as the spring will want to push it off.
the hardest part would be hanging the hardware and keeping the shoes in place against the wheel cylinder.
take care in removing the wheel cylinder as the rusted hardline may want to twist. use lots of penetrating fluid on the line nut.
here is a quick step by step for replacing the wheel cylinder.
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doity..._cylinders.htm
it is a good idea to have someone who have done this before to assist you for the first time. but just take your time and keep referring to the other side.
#12
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
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its not as bad as everyone is making it out to be.........make sure you have the right spring removal tools...put the springs on the ground Exactly how they came off...there are 2 bolts and a brake line in the back of the cylinder. Get a Hardware kit and good shoe's.........once done make sure to adjust them till you feel drag.
Should take a Hour a side........
Should take a Hour a side........
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