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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 09:54 AM
  #31  
Turbo X_J's Avatar
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Just a quick note: sparks in the vicinity of the battery are a really bad idea.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 09:54 AM
  #32  
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If the Neutral Safety Switch was bad, the engine would not crank at all. Neutral Safety Switch is there to disallow the starter to turn the engine while the vehicle is in gear - if it has gone bad, you will not get any cranking at all, you'll turn the key and nothing will happen.

Have you tested for spark, even?

If the engine will crank but not fire, and you smell gas, then that would lead me to believe it's a no-spark situation. Obviously some have suggested the CPS but that appears to not be the problem.

Check for spark. If it IS getting spark, then check for fuel. Just because you smell fuel doesn't necessarily mean it's reaching the engine.

Have you tried holding the pedal to the floor while cranking?

Have you tried shooting starting fluid into the air cleaner housing while cranking?

EDIT: Apparently I missed an entire page when I posted my response lol

Last edited by 77olds; Oct 16, 2011 at 09:57 AM.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 10:16 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by countrythang
oohhhh, i see i see... so you just touch it to the battery and start it that way?... yeah If i still can't get much help then i will have to look into that. good idea and thanks.

I used to have a tractor back in GA that i had to use a screw driver or somehting metal to hit the post of the starter to "jump" it off, lol...
Yea, close to the same. Jumping to the relay powers the same post on the solenoid that you where energizing with your screwdriver. Anyway, my key works, I just put that there one day when I was checking spark.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 10:21 AM
  #34  
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From: Frederick, MD/ Trion, Ga
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Originally Posted by 77olds
If the Neutral Safety Switch was bad, the engine would not crank at all. Neutral Safety Switch is there to disallow the starter to turn the engine while the vehicle is in gear - if it has gone bad, you will not get any cranking at all, you'll turn the key and nothing will happen.

Have you tested for spark, even?

If the engine will crank but not fire, and you smell gas, then that would lead me to believe it's a no-spark situation. Obviously some have suggested the CPS but that appears to not be the problem.

Check for spark. If it IS getting spark, then check for fuel. Just because you smell fuel doesn't necessarily mean it's reaching the engine.

Have you tried holding the pedal to the floor while cranking?

Have you tried shooting starting fluid into the air cleaner housing while cranking?

EDIT: Apparently I missed an entire page when I posted my response lol
haha its all good. but yeah i did that, haven't used spray, cause still tryin to test spark, alone, but now got it figured, Just need to get off work.

Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Yea, close to the same. Jumping to the relay powers the same post on the solenoid that you where energizing with your screwdriver. Anyway, my key works, I just put that there one day when I was checking spark.
thanks man i really appreciate it, lol, i woulda never remembered/thought about that.

now i just need to go home... bout half through the shift...
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 10:22 AM
  #35  
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Sounds to me like u deff got a bad crank sensor. When u bought the new one i mean. IMO ur "original symtoms" got fuel pump written all over it. If u smell gas, it's probly not the pump though. If u want to SAFELY check the fire by urself, w/o takin a chance on bowin ur battery up in ur face, take a piece of scap wire 6, 7, or 10' long and stick one end in the coil wire boot, run the wire round into the cab, and hold the other end of it in ur left hand while u crank the eng w? ur right. If she's a firin, u'll be the first to know.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 10:27 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by jeepokee95xj
Sounds to me like u deff got a bad crank sensor. When u bought the new one i mean. IMO ur "original symtoms" got fuel pump written all over it. If u smell gas, it's probly not the pump though. If u want to SAFELY check the fire by urself, w/o takin a chance on bowin ur battery up in ur face, take a piece of scap wire 6, 7, or 10' long and stick one end in the coil wire boot, run the wire round into the cab, and hold the other end of it in ur left hand while u crank the eng w? ur right. If she's a firin, u'll be the first to know.
hahaha yeah right, think i'll take the less shocking way to do it, lmao.

I used to have my little brothers grab the spark plugs on old push mowers when i was working on them so i'lll passs.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 01:19 PM
  #37  
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Hey, what some of these good people are correctly pointing out is that a battery while charging produces explosive hydrogen gas. Sparks around a battery at anytime is not a good idea. Any hot wire will do, so to play it safe make that final contact at the end of a jumper cable, or on the big post on the relay....better somewhere away from the battery.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 03:37 PM
  #38  
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ahh, I gots it. Always try to be as safe as possible.
thank ya

still at work though, just a few more hours and troubleshooting will continue.
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Old Oct 16, 2011 | 03:53 PM
  #39  
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have you ever checked for storerd codes even if theres no check engine light on???????
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 11:42 AM
  #40  
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No I have not checked for codes. I don't know though it ain't running and I don't have code reader.

Was working on it, and it is not getting fuel... it will start when fluid is sprayed in TB but no pressure, fuel pump getting power but not working... spoon looks like I need a fuel pump...
Any suggestions or ideas? Think I'll need to go get one from napa...
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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 11:51 AM
  #41  
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well sir, looks like ya nailed it!!!!

will start and run with fluid in TB.....

you do NOT hear pump running...


sooooo get new pump AND new fuel pump relay (just in case).

my $0.01 worth!

cpnwrench

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Old Oct 18, 2011 | 12:36 PM
  #42  
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Yes. Without reviewing your whole thread.... My 90 has a ceramic resistor forward on the left inner fender. The rearward terminal seems to go straight to the fuel pump. If I jump power there and the pump doesn't run, the wire, it's connection, or the pump is bad.

Last edited by DFlintstone; Oct 18, 2011 at 12:39 PM.
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 07:31 AM
  #43  
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Yeah that is where I'm at. I really appreciate the help guys. Now I don't know when i will be able to work on it... wheeling trip set for sat. then the army calls on an exercise till sat, so don't know if i would even get out to make it down there, and to top it off since the exercise is going i can't leave and can't work on the Jeep...
But again thanks, and i will keep ya posted soon as it is done to make sure that is all...
still little confused on the Jerking in/out of OD cruisin at highway speeds, and first just not wanting to crank just when it was warm, lol...so we shall see...
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 09:02 AM
  #44  
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I've never tried the TCU adjustment. Sounds finicky but doable. Maybe one of the wizards knows if that could be your OD issue. When you say "not wanting to crank when it's warm", do you mean "crank" (turn over), or start? I think you mean start, just trying to be supper clear!
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Old Oct 19, 2011 | 09:28 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by DFlintstone
I've never tried the TCU adjustment. Sounds finicky but doable. Maybe one of the wizards knows if that could be your OD issue. When you say "not wanting to crank when it's warm", do you mean "crank" (turn over), or start? I think you mean start, just trying to be supper clear!
yeah my bad, it will turn over just fine, it wouldn't start.
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