ready to roll it down a hill
03-01-2013, 10:58 AM
#1
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Location: Glendale Az.
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Buzzen half dozen 4.0l
ready to roll it down a hill
OK
I am at my ends I have a 94 sport w/a 4.0 and a 5 speed. What I've replaced
1 coil
2 distributor
3 fuel pump
4 pressure regulator
5 O2 sensor
6 CPS Sensor
7 plugs, wires, cap and rotor
8 rebuilt injectors #710s
9 Cat was replaced 02/13
I've also cleaned the throttle body and the IAC sensor. I checked for vacuum leaks and the evap canister line was missing.
Just went for Emissions and FAILED!
Hydrocarbons 6.78 passing is 1.6
Carbon Monoxicide 126.86 passing is 20.0
Oxides of Nitrogen .29 passing is 3.0 << the only thing that passed
I am looking for ideas on what ive might have missed.
I am at my ends I have a 94 sport w/a 4.0 and a 5 speed. What I've replaced
1 coil
2 distributor
3 fuel pump
4 pressure regulator
5 O2 sensor
6 CPS Sensor
7 plugs, wires, cap and rotor
8 rebuilt injectors #710s
9 Cat was replaced 02/13
I've also cleaned the throttle body and the IAC sensor. I checked for vacuum leaks and the evap canister line was missing.
Just went for Emissions and FAILED!
Hydrocarbons 6.78 passing is 1.6
Carbon Monoxicide 126.86 passing is 20.0
Oxides of Nitrogen .29 passing is 3.0 << the only thing that passed
I am looking for ideas on what ive might have missed.
Last edited by Asphalt Cowboy; 03-01-2013 at 11:10 AM.
03-01-2013, 11:06 AM
#3
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Buzzen half dozen 4.0l
03-01-2013, 12:33 PM
#4
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Buzzen half dozen 4.0l
Just did a compression test
1 80
2 32
3 80
4 80
5 80
6 120
I think this 160k miles motor is used up
I do have another jeep that a 89 with a 4.0. Will this motor fit in my 94 with no problems? The 94 was made in 8/93 so when i bought the distributor i had to by a 93 dis.
1 80
2 32
3 80
4 80
5 80
6 120
I think this 160k miles motor is used up
I do have another jeep that a 89 with a 4.0. Will this motor fit in my 94 with no problems? The 94 was made in 8/93 so when i bought the distributor i had to by a 93 dis.
Last edited by Asphalt Cowboy; 03-01-2013 at 12:48 PM.
03-01-2013, 02:10 PM
#5
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Year: 2015, 2012
Model: Grand Cherokee (WK2)
Engine: 3.6L
Going from HO to Renix, basically you treat the Renix as a replacement long block. Some of the electricals and computer changes.
I'm sure there are threads on here as to how to do that.
I'm sure there are threads on here as to how to do that.
Last edited by Firestorm500; 03-01-2013 at 02:12 PM.
03-01-2013, 03:16 PM
#6
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Sounds like you're throwing parts at it without diagnosing anything. With a 94, it's harder, but quit replacing stuff if you're just guessing.
03-01-2013, 04:52 PM
#7
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
If you add a couple tablespoons of oil, test again, and the numbers DON'T come up, you can guess the problem is with the valves/head. Might be a valve job could save the day. (called a "wet" compression test).
If a head is off, (like say a JY head), you can put it on it's side and put kerosene or diesel in the ports see how well the valves are sealing. Sorry Btw, that sucks!
I agree with Firestorm on the swap. You keep everything from the 94, dizy, flex plate, T-stat housing, (I think). Cruiser has info in my signature. You gotta use the "correct" manifold gasket, I don't know which right off.
If a head is off, (like say a JY head), you can put it on it's side and put kerosene or diesel in the ports see how well the valves are sealing. Sorry Btw, that sucks!
I agree with Firestorm on the swap. You keep everything from the 94, dizy, flex plate, T-stat housing, (I think). Cruiser has info in my signature. You gotta use the "correct" manifold gasket, I don't know which right off.
Last edited by DFlintstone; 03-01-2013 at 05:04 PM.
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03-02-2013, 03:14 AM
#8
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Buzzen half dozen 4.0l
If you add a couple tablespoons of oil, test again, and the numbers DON'T come up, you can guess the problem is with the valves/head. Might be a valve job could save the day. (called a "wet" compression test).
If a head is off, (like say a JY head), you can put it on it's side and put kerosene or diesel in the ports see how well the valves are sealing. Sorry Btw, that sucks!
I agree with Firestorm on the swap. You keep everything from the 94, dizy, flex plate, T-stat housing, (I think). Cruiser has info in my signature. You gotta use the "correct" manifold gasket, I don't know which right off.
If a head is off, (like say a JY head), you can put it on it's side and put kerosene or diesel in the ports see how well the valves are sealing. Sorry Btw, that sucks!
I agree with Firestorm on the swap. You keep everything from the 94, dizy, flex plate, T-stat housing, (I think). Cruiser has info in my signature. You gotta use the "correct" manifold gasket, I don't know which right off.
Going to due the wet test today when i get home. This is what i get for not doing a complete test. But Hey at least i have new parts lol.
03-03-2013, 10:40 AM
#9
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Buzzen half dozen 4.0l
After donig a wet test. The numbers are no better. So after talking to my step dad. I've decided to pull the motor and replace it. I know someone is going to say im wasting my time and money. But I will have a new motor 3 yr 45k warrenty on it and all the parts i bought will go on the new one.
03-04-2013, 12:06 AM
#10
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Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
OK, you diagnosed a problem with the head. I suggest you spend a fortune on a new engine. That should cover it!
But seriously. Two things. If you just pull the head you can check the condition of the cylinders pretty easily. Can you catch your fingernail on the edge there near the top where the rings wore it? Ring ridge=wear. Smooth is nice. See any scoring or vertical lines? I've found JY blocks where you could still see the 30* cross hatch marks from honing.
Second. If a shop, (or you) find the head is a POS, you might guess the head was the issue. That 4.0 really IS a pretty hardy beast. Shorter story, pull the head and look. Might be sweet, might be questionable. We love those cylinder pics.........
But seriously. Two things. If you just pull the head you can check the condition of the cylinders pretty easily. Can you catch your fingernail on the edge there near the top where the rings wore it? Ring ridge=wear. Smooth is nice. See any scoring or vertical lines? I've found JY blocks where you could still see the 30* cross hatch marks from honing.
Second. If a shop, (or you) find the head is a POS, you might guess the head was the issue. That 4.0 really IS a pretty hardy beast. Shorter story, pull the head and look. Might be sweet, might be questionable. We love those cylinder pics.........
Last edited by DFlintstone; 03-04-2013 at 12:17 AM.
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