I gave my new to me 1998 Cherokee a good once over today, and noticed that I have a plug that goes no-where in the engine bay. Anyone have any idea what its for/if its needed? (pics below)


Left side of the pic by the fuse box.


Image1 of the plug.


Image 2 of the plug.

Also, my cruise control isnt currently working, and I'm wondering if that plug may be causing the issue. I did have a crack in the vacuum line, but i sealed it with some shrink wrap and electrical tape, and the AC controls are working as expected. I did notice that there was a cut on the wire, does anyone know what the damaged wire should be? (ground, voltage, ect). This is the wire going into the cruise control solenoid.

 

Bump

 

Do u live near a junkyard? U can go and hope u can find a xj with cruise control and check out what's missing.

 

Might want to check the stickies if you don't want the :
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i just went outside in the freezing *** winter in nothing but a tshirt and pj pants.

'00 cherokee, auto, 4.0.

i have the same plug, there is a rubber plug covering up the plugs inside.

 

The connector is for Daytime Running Lamps. A Canadian requirement, but not required in the U.S. at the time. Chrysler just prewired the domestic XJ's for the heck of it.

 

That damaged Tan/Red tracer wire goes from the PCM to the Servo. It's the Speed Control Vacuum Solenoid Control wire.

Is the copper in the wire still intact? If so, tape it up.

The Cruise Control (Vehicle Speed Control) circuits go through the Brake Lamp Switch. There have been cases where the Bake Lamp Switch was causing the Cruise control to be inop. If the brake pedal arm is not tight up against the Brake Lamp Switch plunger, it may be enough to break one, or both, cruise control contacts in the switch to open - killing the cruise circuit. It's worth looking at.

The PCM supplies power to the cruise control system, there is no external fuse to check.

 

Thanks, i believe this is a new rule since the last time i was on the forum frequently (over 2 years ago).

Thank you!

1 or 2 of the strands seem to be cut in the wire, but its definitely not the entire way through. Do you have any idea what the voltage should be at idle/other loads? When i hit the cruise control to "on" the light doesn't come on in the dash.

 

Does the CRUISE lamp in the upper left corner of the instrument cluster illuminate when turning the ignition switch to ON, before starting the engine? Or during the following instrument cluster actuator test:

Instrument Cluster Actuator Test

(1) Begin the test with the ignition switch in the Off position.

(2) Depress the trip odometer reset button.

(3) While holding the trip odometer reset button depressed, turn the ignition switch to the On position, but do not start the engine.

(4) Release the trip odometer reset button.

(5) The gauges should cycle through their ranges, stopping at intermediate readings, going up and going down, at two second intervals. The indicator lamps should cycle on and off.

(6) The CRUISE lamp should remain off for the first 8 seconds from the start of the test, then come on for 6 seconds, off 2 seconds, on 2 seconds, then off.

Does your speedometer needle look like it's fluttering?

Did you check the brake pedal arm to see if its tight up against the brake lamp switch plunger?

Does the engine crank over okay while the trans shift lever is in PARK, or do you have to wiggle the lever to get it to crank?

Does your horn work okay?

There will be no cruise activity at idle. The vehicle needs to be moving at a speed of at least 35 MPH to engage cruise control.

The PCM turns the CRUISE lamp on through the CCD Bus when the left speed control switch on the steering wheel is placed to ON. And this switch activates the cruise circuit.

If the CRUISE lamp functions (through testing) and depressing the speed control switch to ON while traveling above 35 MPH does not turn the lamp on, then the speed control switch, the brake lamp switch, or circuit wiring would be suspect.