so my over flow bottle for my radiator cracked on 2 am in the morning fixed and now cant figure out why it wont run at a cooler temp . I have a 180 T stat. in right now could that be busted from it getting so hot ?

 

Whats the temp at? 190 to 210 is a fine temp, and ideal too.

Did you change the coolant as well or just the overflow?

 

well alot had came out with the bottle just being broke. i just replaced the bottle and got a bottle of coolant and started to fill it up . didnt even drain it out the old stuff. right now its a steady 240 on the temp gauge

 

If it really is 240 (confirm by pointing an infrared point and shoot thermometer directly at the thermostat housing), you are running TOO hot.

*Is efan coming on?
*Does fan clutch work?
*The thermostat does not control the HIGH end of the coolant temp, just the temperature at which the thermostat opens. 195 is the correct temp stat for the vast majority of 4.0 engines
*Radiator and water pump are in play. How old are they??

Lots of things to think about.

 

well so after it cooled down put more fluid in and it went down to 210 and 195 . my fan clutch is working . but my electric fan wont kick on

 

a 180 stat seems to low to me, I have the regular 195 stat in my 2.5L and it sticks at just that once it kicks on with the clutch fan and all.

Where are your e-fans? In my opinion if you have powerful enough e-fans on the engine side pulling air through your radiator then you should take off the clutch fan and free up those few extra horses/torque lbs that it's taking from your engine. You shouldn't need both to keep a cool engine.

Thermostats are cheap and easy to replace so maybe you could start there and get a good 195 stat and see if that fixes your issue

Also you could take off the radiator cap while your running your engine cold and watch the coolant flow. Since u have a 180 stat, the coolant should chillin until it hits the 180 mark which is when you will see your coolant start to move from the water pump kicking in. If it doesn't then you can change the stat and check it again, if it doesn't move still then you might have a bad water pump on your hands.

 

Nothings gonna fix it. It's a Renix motor. Get rid of the pressurized bottle and switch to an open radiator design. You can do a junkyard swap for usually less then $50. Trust me, I did everything you could imagine to correct my 90's over heating issue. The moment I swapped to an open style, life became fantastic.

 

so i forgot that when i put the 180 t stat in it was a fail safe one . so im guessing its stuck open . i went and got a 195 just for to be safe and make life easier on me .

 

hey got a link for the open radiator design ?

 

if you were pretty low on coolant, you probably hav to burp it some,get the air out, so you can fill it more with coolant. i guess squeez the upper rad hose a few times.

 

turn your heater on full blast to quickly rid your cooling system of air bubbles. After this you will most likely need to add another pint or more of fluids.

I'm not sure what you mean by an open radiator design but if your jeeps a daily driver it may not be a good idea to mess with the cooling system. Radiators are designed to use the surface area on the aluminum fins to cool the fluids that run through it. Air for that matter would be much less efficient and could end up doing more damage then good.

The cooling system is very simple and any issues can be narrowed down to a few culprits fairly quick. Check your t-stat and use an ohm-meter to check the sensor attached to it (your service manual will let you know what ranges it should be in and when). If that's good then move on to your radiator, does it have leaks? If so from where and how bad? If it's hard to tell, use a black light to make the coolant stand out and look while your engine is still at operating temp to help find it's source. If it's a clean crack on the plastic tank then it could be fixed with a good radiator epoxy such as some JB weld products ( I forgot which one is best for radiators) Although this likely won't last long so your best bet would be to just pick up a new radiator.

If all hose connections and radiator tank looks good then pull your water pump and either replace it or do a good inspection of it (it should spin freely with no grinding or play) and throw it back on with a new gasket. If you still got an issue then it's most likely electrical and unfortunately an "open radiator design" wont fix that.