Mine has been hitten strong and long. A 1,500 foot gravel climb to my place, punctuated with 1000 mile highway trips, since 02. One wheel bearing and a Pittman arm. A cps and tps. Of course starters and U-jonts, brakes and stuff. These things are nearly bullet proof. 280K and the issues are not the engine, just the stuff it drags through the washboard and potholes!

Pete, Chuck, is there something we can look at in the ECU feed to the ICM? On a Ford forum I saw there was stuff to watch there.

I had saved this. Maybe of some value, Idk. >

COIL RESISTANCE, mine. Meter on the 20K scale reads 6.4 between the secondary and the first yellow positive. Secondary to ground reads nearly 20 on the same scale.
************************************************** *******
COIL.
Roughly 1 ohm on the primary and 12,000-13,000 on the secondary.
Can't always find a bad coil with a resistance test though. They sometimes hold together fine on the low voltage from the DMM but short like crazy under high voltage.

You should have battery voltage (12-13V) on the positive primary coil connector and about half that on the negative while cranking. If the positive and negative primary connectors show the exact same voltage while cranking, the ECU isn't trying to fire the coil. That's often a bad CPS

 

Well we know we have a good CPs in it. I'm getting injector pulses. Bottom line is I need to get this thing running this weekend. By any means necessary

 

I'll go out and put my cheapo analogue on my ECU to ICM cranking. Just for giggles.

 

WHERE are you checking for spark?

 

Plug wire for cyl three grounded to the valve cover with a screw driver. Like I've done on many other vehicles

 

Try the coil wire at the dizzy end grounded.

 

Ok can't right now I do t have anyone to crank it for me. Roomate is out. I'll check when he gets home. Was thinking of doing that but just didn't. Where should I ground it to?

 

Any metal, like the valve cover.

All I got was a momentary increase from 4.5 to 4.7 on the rear yellow wire feeding the ICM from the ECU. U-tube here>

 

And back-probing the rearward yellow feed from the ECU to the ICM, cranking, I got a .11, that went up and bounced around a .5 while cranking. Ignore my comment at the end when I mention "might be coil or ICM" Could be allot of other things I suppose. >>
And, yes, agreed, check spark from the coil. Might just be the coil wire or the rotor.

 

Thank you don. I'll try that in the morning. It's whiskey time now. I'm not getting jack of spark from a plug wire. I'll try the cool tomorrow. Hope there is spark there

 

Phit. Just lost my text and need to re-write. I've found whan I'm at the store, if I select beer instead of booz, the trajectory of my whole life benefits. I'm gonna pretty much drink it all, and that hard stuff can really hurt. Beer is enough!
Injector pulse is checked with a "noid light" you can google that.
I didn't have any luck checking injector pulse with a dash light myself. I did get a positive result with a bulb from a three cell mag light though. I hear you can hear them ticking with a ....to your ear, but I wouldn't bet on that cranking. Here's, my first U-tube, "Noid light tough on camera">>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPdk...ature=youtu.be

 

Well seeing as how I can smell copious amounts of fuel at the tail pipe I figure I'm getting pulse before the pc307 I didn't get that

 

Sounds good. Then having stuff nailed down without a doubt is good too.

 

That is true. Just to me logic dictates that even with a leaky injector I wouldn't be getting that amount of fuel vapor without a pulse

 

Unless initialization is pumping fuel through a leaky injector.