questions regarding lift kits
#1
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questions regarding lift kits
Hey,
So i bought a jeep Cherokee 2dr 4.0 1995 2 months ago and i am thinking to go to silver lake on memorial weekend.
so i am think in buying a Rubicon 3.5 in super flex basic kit with mono tubes i am not that big of an off roader so the guy told me that this is the best choice for me. and i am considerring 15x8 wheels ( any recomendations for nice wheels ) and 31x10.5 tires all terrain since i want something commfortable on the high way since silver lake is 9hrs of a drive from where i live.
so my question is would my drive shaft and transmission be able to live with these upgrades and would it be able to hold for the 9hrs drive.
and those with the 2doors Cherokee does it enter wind from the doors or does my jeep need repairing. it also shakes bad on the highway is that normal if you drive 70+mph.
So i bought a jeep Cherokee 2dr 4.0 1995 2 months ago and i am thinking to go to silver lake on memorial weekend.
so i am think in buying a Rubicon 3.5 in super flex basic kit with mono tubes i am not that big of an off roader so the guy told me that this is the best choice for me. and i am considerring 15x8 wheels ( any recomendations for nice wheels ) and 31x10.5 tires all terrain since i want something commfortable on the high way since silver lake is 9hrs of a drive from where i live.
so my question is would my drive shaft and transmission be able to live with these upgrades and would it be able to hold for the 9hrs drive.
and those with the 2doors Cherokee does it enter wind from the doors or does my jeep need repairing. it also shakes bad on the highway is that normal if you drive 70+mph.
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Year: 99
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so my question is would my drive shaft and transmission be able to live with these upgrades and would it be able to hold for the 9hrs drive.
and those with the 2doors Cherokee does it enter wind from the doors or does my jeep need repairing. it also shakes bad on the highway is that normal if you drive 70+mph.
and those with the 2doors Cherokee does it enter wind from the doors or does my jeep need repairing. it also shakes bad on the highway is that normal if you drive 70+mph.
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i am not doing it my self since i dont think i will have time for it can you please explain more about the things i should do. i dont think i need any trimming since the tires are supposed to fit good as the lift company says. iam new here so dont the lift kit comes with sway bars and what about the steering components
Last edited by rys5311; 04-26-2013 at 06:20 PM.
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i am not doing it my self since i dont think i will have time for it can you please explain more about the things i should do. i dont think i need any trimming since the tires are supposed to fit good as the lift company says. iam new here so dont the lift kit comes with sway bars and what about the steering components
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At about the 3.5-4" mark, your driveshaft angle starts to become to severe and results in increased wear on u joint and stress on components in general. A SYE shortens the length of the output on the TC end and allows for better shaft angles. You can use a front shaft from a XJ in conjunction with the SYE as a cheap alternative to a new DC shaft. Ultimately, you will only know if a SYE is needed after lift. Like I said before, 3.5" is about the cut off, but RE lifts tend to sit tall.
#7
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If not trimming, make sure your bump stops are long enough to prevent over stuffing tires, especially with sway bars disco'd. You will need new, longer sway bar links, so do some research on them. As for steering, an adjustable track bar, beefier tie rod (a v8 ZJ tie rod works) also lower control arms. Whether fixed, or adjustable you'll probably need them.
i still dont get the steering part and the tie rod stuff and why would i need them? and what will happen if i didnt get them?
this is my dd so i dont wont to go wrong with it
you didnt say for me which make is good for the sye and do i have to buy a new shaft also for it to work. as i read if i dont experience a shake in the car it means every thing is fine and i wont need one is that right or i should get it to be on the safe size
and wouldnt all of that upgrades put extra load on my differentiation since my jeep is stock right now as i mentioned
thank you for your replies
Last edited by rys5311; 04-27-2013 at 03:13 AM.
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#8
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Year: 1995
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You don't need all this garbage if your only running 31's. Just find you a budget 3" lift keep your stock brake lines, bump stops, and sway bar disconnects. Take your rear sway bar off and throw it in the trash. You said you don't care for offloading much so there is no need dumping a **** ton of money into this unless you plan on doing some serious flexing while rock crawling.
I'm running 33" mud stars on stock rims with a 3" spacer in the front and a 3" add a leaf in the rear. I have stock brake lines, bumps stops, and shocks. I beat on this truck pretty hard about three times a month. I have made a few trips 100+ miles to Hard Rock Ocala beat on it all day and drive 100+ miles back. While there I did everything I wanted to do and then some with out disconnecting my front sway bar. This is my daily driver I drive 20 miles one way to work 7 days a week. I do have my fenders trimmed to fit my 33's.
This is just to give you an idea if you wanted to take a cheaper route.
This is just an alternative to dumping your wallet in to the fire witch is the offloading world.
I'm running 33" mud stars on stock rims with a 3" spacer in the front and a 3" add a leaf in the rear. I have stock brake lines, bumps stops, and shocks. I beat on this truck pretty hard about three times a month. I have made a few trips 100+ miles to Hard Rock Ocala beat on it all day and drive 100+ miles back. While there I did everything I wanted to do and then some with out disconnecting my front sway bar. This is my daily driver I drive 20 miles one way to work 7 days a week. I do have my fenders trimmed to fit my 33's.
This is just to give you an idea if you wanted to take a cheaper route.
This is just an alternative to dumping your wallet in to the fire witch is the offloading world.
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Thanks xjtim for your opinions? How do you know what OP wants out of his rig or what his budget is? All cause you ghetto rigged a lift together doesn't mean that's what everybody wants.
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i didnt get what you mean. doesnt the SWAY BAR ,control arms, and the bumpers come with the lift kit. iam getting r/ere6010m lift kit i think it has every thing in it.
i still dont get the steering part and the tie rod stuff and why would i need them? and what will happen if i didnt get them?
this is my dd so i dont wont to go wrong with it
you didnt say for me which make is good for the sye and do i have to buy a new shaft also for it to work. as i read if i dont experience a shake in the car it means every thing is fine and i wont need one is that right or i should get it to be on the safe size
and wouldnt all of that upgrades put extra load on my differentiation since my jeep is stock right now as i mentioned
thank you for your replies
http://www.rubiconexpress.com/Lift-K...pn=R%2fERE6010
If so, know that the AAL (add a leaf) for the rear is a bandaid when it comes to lifting and that a full leaf pack is really the way to go. The kit does come with the LCA's and sway bars but not bump stops. Now.. Xjtim had one or two good points- the SYE and adj. track bar are borderline necessary at this point. Intimately, you just gotta lift it and see what you need to do next. Being that its your dd it can be nice to have it ride smooth on the pavement.
Essentially yes, if nothing vib's then nothing's wrong. But, the doesn't mean that excess stress is being put on u joint and causing increased wear. Like I said, you'll only know when you drive it after lifting it. I'm at 4" and I could use a SYE. It still drives fine, but I am wearing thru u joints faster. Still wow fine off road. Good SYE companies? Advanced adapters, rugged ridge and terraflex are good. It kinda depends if you have a 231 or 242 TC.
And no. Your jeep won't even flinch In the slightest at these mods. Your not adding and extra load to anything aside from the 31's and they aren't big enough to matter. You'll start seeing issues then you hit 33's but usually that's just lost acceleration that can be cured by regearing.
#12
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Year: 1995
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I don't know what the OP wants to do that's why I gave an option to all the high dollar parts everyone is throwing at him. I can say I was worried about my budget lift at first, but once I put on my truck I am very comfortable and would not hesitate buying it again. I bought my 3" Fat Bobs Garage lift new off Craigslist for $60. As apposed to the $700+ in parts everyone says you have to have.
I'll keep my" ghetto lift ".
I'll keep my" ghetto lift ".
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Year: 1986
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You can get the Zone kit with springs for less than the RE kit.
http://zoneoffroad.com/product?ki=436&gr=-1
http://zoneoffroad.com/product?ki=436&gr=-1
#14
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You don't have to be an ***. That's why I said "this is an option if you wanted to take a cheaper route". Correct me if I'm wrong but there are other options other than your way of to do it right?