Hmm.. Is there a knock or tick from engine now? The answer is probably a bad (spun) rod bearing. This is a kinda common issue..

 

there are no knocks or ticking noises, the engine sounds nice and smooth and strong , if it's a bad rod bearing how would i go about fixing that? is it difficult? something i might be able to do myself? etc. Also one more question, in one mf my head lights it looks fairly new and is really bright, the other looks fairly old but works, do you think i should change it or wait for it to die?, also to replace the oil sensor how would i go abotu changing it? sorry for the many different questions i have asked. Thank you all for your vast knowledge and opinions

 

(sorry about double posting >.<)
Forgot to mention, i know i need a new muffler, but i forgot to mention yesterday when i changed the oil and let the car run i saw some water slowly being sprayed out of the bottom if you need a picture to better tell what i'm talkign about i'll post one up later, i think it's just some condensation it's been raining a lot, any ideas? A muffler should run about what? like 50$?

 

If you had a bad rod bearing you'd have noise. They're difficult to miss. Sounds like a metal rod knocking against the crank..well...because there'd be a metal rod knocking against the crank. It's one of those things that sounds expensive when you hear it.

Check the voltage @ the headlight plug on each side, and check the voltage drop between the ground pin and battery (-). If you have good voltage and ground, replace the dim bulb. Else repair the wiring.
Or you could simply swap them from left to right and see if the problem follows the bulb.

The oil sensor just unscrews. Remove the electrical connector first.

 

Most mufflers have a small drain hole drilled in them near the bottom to let condensation out. It should stop after a while.

 

thanks for the info ,
another question, sorry if i'm annoying ya'll. any tips on how to get the coolant plug out of the engine block? i've looked and looked and i just cannot seem to find it, would i have to remove anything to get to it easier?, reason i ask, is because i have flushed my radiator about four times now and i still get rust color coming out of it, i've just been draining it by detatchign the hoses and flushing water through it, and i want to see if by opening the coolant piece down on the engine block if i'll actually get it all out. Or should i just get a new radiator? Car's not over heating at all, but the rust color scares me, and the engine tends to run past 210 when i idle for a little bit. i have taken about an hour trip doing 80mph on the highway straight and it went up the the line past 210 but that's all.

 

also another question, you know the roof cloth?, how exactly would i be able to "restick" it back to the roof, it's bugging me because it keeps landing on my head and distracts me, was thinking about super gluing spots here and there, but decided that i wanted to fix it all at once.

 

another post. sorry guys >.< this one is a bit of an update just changed the oil sensor/switch for the guage, and it works! it doesn't go to zero and say check guages, i'm happy, but before i get too over joyed, does this mean that everything with the oil is ok so far? nothing else needs to be looked at since the oil pressure is staying at 40 idling cold?

 

http://www.4x4xplor.com/headliner.html
Try this one..

 

Sounds like all is well. If there's no knock, good oil pressure, and good acceleration, it sounds like your good to go.

 

thanks, i'll give the apolstry a shot eventually, next on the to do list is the muffler, any info on the radiator?

 

if you are only flushing the rad thats why you keep seeing the rust you need to flush the block too, If you only have water in it now proceed, if coolant, than drain and reuse it if its new. If i remember correctly, im sure somebody will correct me, disconnect upper rad hose from rad. start the vehicle turn on the garden hose to a slow flow and put it in the open rad(where the rad cap goes) make sure you aim the discharge from the upper hose away from electronic componants and away from you as it will burn you. you also need to flush out the heater core . or you can buy one of those kits that you install on the heater core tubeing but ive never used one of them so im no help there. i belive prestone makes them. dont forget google and youtube. i looked on youtube but didnt really see what i would call flushing the rad out but that was a brief look maybe if you spend some time looking you can find some good ones\
my way is kinda old school i guess its better to drain old stuff, fill with water, get it to operating temp, drain, fill, etc till it runs clear if your not using 50/50 coolant dont put tap water in the rad go buy distilled

 

yeah, i've seen that kit, but i'm not to warm and fuzzy about cutting my hoses :P so i'd pretty much just disconnect the top hose from the radiator and then put the garden hose in the top of the radiator where the cap comes of aim the hose away from myself and electrical, (it's still connected to where the pump thingy is on the front of the engine) turn the car on and the hose will just start spraying out all the crap, and then keep it running until the clear water comes out, not here's my problem. I want to completly drain the rad and block, but i cannot seem to find the drain plug on the block to save my life, so that way i can put in my 50/50 mix. I've looked i've lifted the jeep i've taken tires off to see if i can find it, i've also noticed to front axle tend to get in the way a little bit when you're trying to do things. Any ideas on how exactly i could get to it/find it? I've looked at pictures but i'm probably seeing it, but not reconigizing it.

 

no drain on block only rad, you could disco the lower hose, i suppose and do the same thing

it wont really spray out. it will kinda spit, only when the tstat opens. otherwise its more of a trickle, do the heater core seperately by flushing thru the heater hoses, there are vids of this on youtube

also be patient when taking the hoses off too much twisting can lead to broken fittings and leaks

 

alrighty thanks, i'll give this a shot in a few days. I'll keep ya posted.