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No more bumps! Your gonna get reported.. It looks like you have a nice XJ man. That rust looks pretty superficial so no worries there. Also, you can post pics right here if you want. Way easier as many of us use mobil devices. Either way, a lot of those pics didn't match their captions. So it's gonna be hard to tell you what's what. But here's a couple things that may help you- everything highlighted in this picture is important for all steering and front end suspension function. Also, hit wiki and type in jeep Cherokee. Then select the year or model you have and bam! Lots of good reading.

 

Oh wow! now i know what everything is! thank you very much.

I'm sorry about all the bumps i'm just excited and i like learning things about the jeep, also are there any guides of how to take apart the dash to get to the evaporator core? i've been using the search feature and google and keep finding things for grand cherokee but not just cherokee, sorry about the mislabeling of the parts i was just guessing at what i presumed things were, any way i'll check for any play on these in the morning on friday, as well as my 4x4. thanks for all the information everyone's provided very helpful!

 

Happy to help man! And yea, it's a lot of fun. The dash is easy to disassemble. Start with the trim surrounding the stereo and hvac controls. The top panel on my 99 pops right off, pre 97, idk, but I'll bet it's easy. A word to the wise: disconnect the battery. No sence in triggering the airbags. As for the evap core, I'm not sure myself, but hit the search function on here and start looking around. You can filter searches by thread title, too, that can help narrow it down.

Also. The 4wd thing- depending on what TC (transfer case) you have, you will have different options with it. What I mean is you either have a NP231 or NP242 TC. The 231 only has one option for 4hi: "Part Time". The 242 has both "Part Time" and "Full Time". They both have the same 4low options. The difference between part time and full time 4wd is this: in part time, the front drive shaft gets constant torque, whereas in full time, the front DS (drive shaft) only receives torque when the rear end starts to loose traction. What this means for you: in part time, don't drive on anything but loose surfaces. No pavement. Not that its the end of the world, but when you turn tighter corners, both front tires will want to spin at the same speed, causing the inner tire to cause the tire to skip and bind. It feels like someone is turning the wheel back and forth a bit. But in full time, unless you are hard on the throttle, the front end won't actually engage. This is good for urban areas when there's partial ice/snow/sand cover on the roads.

Woo.. Talk about detailed..it feels like I just wrote a novel.. Haha

 

Just looked at the orange sticker thing on my window visor and it says 2h 4hi 4lo and next to them it says Part time. so i'm going to guess i have the 231. So only try it on dirt roads, because if i don't the inner tire will bind, now when you say "bind" does that mean it locks up and ruins something? Ha i love when you have those times too where you feel that way.

 

There's a gentleman on here named ol"blue that can send u a link to the evaporator repair.I tried to do it but to complicated from my phone
Binding is the hopping sound we described the front tires would make if you do it on pavement Christ man just.try it. It's a jeep not some jap crap one time on dry pavement isn't gonna break it.unless of course its ready to take a crap already

 

Yes, you've got the 231. The binding I was referring to will not (under normal circumstances) cause anything to break if you use it on pavement. In fact, going in a straight like, you wont notice it at all. But it's when you go to make a tighter turn (parking lot) that both front wheels will try to turn at same speed instead of the outer tire being allowed to spin a bit faster... This results in the inner tire actually grabbing at loosing traction as you turn. That is what you feel.

It's the same principal as an oval track for sports: the farther out you are, the more distance you have to cover, so to compensate, they stagger the opponents. Otherwise the inner lanes would literally have a shorter race to run!

 

thank you, i'll be sure to message him thanks for your time and patience as well

 

Update!

So just got back from testing my 4wd and guess what! it works! it's so simple to engage too and disengage, i'm happier than a pig in s**t right now. (sorry if language will get me a strike i'll edit it, just let me know.) Also i just went and checked the play in everything on the front nothing seemed loose even with a nice pull and tug, when i'm driving, everything is perfect, then when the wheel gets to a certain position i feel the wheel start to shake a little bit then i turn the wheel a little to the left it stops, however if i don't turn the wheel a little to the left it quickly progresses to DW i can drive up to 90 mph and not get it, it's only when the steering wheel is in a certain position, 90mph is the fastest i have taken it, not in the mood to blow anything. Any ideas? Also the oil pressure gauge drops down to 0 and the "check gauges" light comes on when i'm idling, but when i'm driving will range from 30-40. Is that normal or no?

 

Glad your 4wd works man. It's still worth checking fluids just to make sure, though. Also, give the forum rules a once over to get the idea of what's expected. Good info there. As for the wobble your getting, there is no way of testing your front end by pulling on parts. It sounds like your issue is balance related, but there could be a worn out wheel joint, or TRE, or bushing/s that could be contributing to your issue. Bring it to a shop that does alignments. Your oil pressure issue could be a couple things: the oil pressure sending unit is worn out and needs replaced, or it may just be the gauge it's self. Once again, a good shop will be able to tell you what it is.

 

No, that isn't normal. Jeep specs a minimum of 13# at hot idle. As mentioned, might be the sender. The oil pumps are known to wear after a while too.
You can go either of two routes: replace the sender and see if the pressure is OK, or put a mechanical pressure gauge on temporarily and see if the sender is lying or telling the truth.

 

Alright, thanks i'll be looking into that, i think the first thing i'm going to go is try replacing the ujoints in the wheels, then if that doesn't fix it the bearings, and if not the i'll just keep replacing one piece after another till it's fixed. I'll also put in a new oil pressure sensor. Also another question. I plan on taking a 6 hour trip up to gainsville in the near future at 70-80 mph how many stops do you think i should make to keep the tranny and engine cool?

 

Also i have an oil leak that i think i know where it is coming from however i'm not exactly sure i'll post some pictures tomorrow morning and hope someone and tell me what it is good night CF.

 

Oil leak is probablythe rear main seal, most of them do it if its just a drip id let it go.I have on mine.you'll be stopping just shy of 300 miles anyway for fuel. Other stops aren't needed (seriously?) The parts will be cooler by driving not sitting when you stop heat will start to build up for quite some time before it cools. Have u never owned a vehicle before? How inconvient would it be if all trips in our vehicles had to factor in cool down time ,you really worry too much. Not to offend you but u sound like u have OCD