Hey y'all, my 210,000 mi 1999 Cherokee Ltd RWD's ball joints are shot and I need to replace them. I've been watching several YouTube videos on how to replace them on a 4x4.

Basically, once I've got access to the wheel, I take off the brake calipers, rotor, and then I pull off the hub and axle shaft in one piece. Then I have access to replace the ball joints with a press. Is the process different for my 2WD since I've got a dummy axle?

Also, a recurrent issue seems to be that on a 4x4, people's inner axle seals tend to be shot, fixed by opening up the differential and replacing them. Is there an equivalent for this on a dummy axle (I don't even know what's inside a dummy axle)?

 

Okay, I've never actually done this but my understanding is the front axle housing on a 2wd is just a hollow tube with nothing inside it. The stub axle at the wheel is held in by the nut on the outside of the rotor. You can't use a shop press to remove the ball joints because they are pressed into the axle horns and must be removed on the jeep. Both joints are pressed in from the bottom and because there is no axle u-joint or CV to get in the way, you can use greaseable joints. You'll have to use a clamp-type press.

When I did the ball joints on my 2000 WJ 4x4, I bought greaseable lower joints with the idea of shooting them once, then putting the plugs back in before installing the axles. I bought the lower balljoints from rockauto.com and they were made in the UK.

BTW, those 3 bolts that hold the hub on are 12-point heads. Prepare yourself for a fight! The hubs are often rust-welded to the spindle carrier. Use a liberal amount of antiseize when re-installing them. Matter of fact, you might want to install new ones.

 

You may not even have to remove the hubs. Its the knuckles that have to be removed from the axle. Because of the nature of dummy axles, I don't think they keep you from removing the knuckle without removing the hubs. This isn't from first hand experience (I have 4x4), but I did check pics on google before answering and it looks like the knuckles can be removed with hubs still attached.

As far as I know, the inner axle seals do not apply for the dummy axle. It probably doesn't even have a differential/pumpkin. Which is what the inner axle seals are there for (to hold the oil in). Also answered by reviewing pics of a 98 2wd front axle, that did not have a differential/pumpkin.

 

You will not have to remove the hubs on a 2wd axle. There is no axle that gets in the way. Just take the brakes off and the whole spindle/knuckle will pull off as one piece. There are no seals to replace either.

 

Basically, if you follow the procedure for a live axle on the tubular axle, you will not go wrong. And if you want, you will not have to remove the stub axle. But the knuckle will have to come off. Another short cut is to not remove the tie rod ends where they attach to the knuckle. Remove the nuts, whack it with a big hammer and then swing it out of the way. You will need a ball joint press, which you can rent or buy to remove and replace the ball joints

 

Thank you all for the detailed responses and additional tips. You guys taking the time to explain this to me has really made everything make a lot more sense, especially regarding the innards of the dummy axle as I wasn't sure if there'd be any fluid or seals regardless.

I'm glad to know that I won't have to remove the hubs and that the steering knuckle/spindle comes off in one piece. I'm also especially glad that I won't have to worry about any seals. Per y'alls advice, I'm going to get my hands on greasable ball joints and a quality ball joint press, then complete the job this weekend.

Although you guys have made it clear that I don't need to remove the hub, if the bolts holding it in are not too rusted already, I will take them off and at least throw some anti-seize on them in case I ever need to work on it in the future. Thanks again, you guys.

 

 

I have been looking for this answer for days. Thanks for the the ask and answers.